CCC friendly aftermarket cam for N/A 231/252

[ek02]

I forgot about the ccc. Use the milder cam. The FelPro gasket with the pan is the best one because it keeps hot oil off the intake. MS96033. Main studs ARP 123-5401. I will have to look up the rod and head bolts II used tomorrow. Using ARP rod and main hardware you should have the rods sized and the main bores align honed. Different clamping forces.

 

[MY85pontiac]

I found ARP 123-6002 for rod bolts, Wave-Loc. For the head bolts/studs, Summit keeps saying they're for GN's and t-types only. Surely they'll work on my engine. The others are for stage 1, supercharged, etc, so those won't work. I'm leaning towards studs but I'm sure it's overkill.

 

[charlief1]

You'll also find summit and jegs will list headers for an SBC as the stock engine in a Regal, which it's never had.

 

[ek02]

Rod bolts are correct. ARP 123-6002. Head studs should be ARP 123-4001. Head bolts are ARP 123-3601. Head bolts and studs go into the water passages, so you need to use a sealer. Permatex makes a good one. High temp thread sealer part # 59214. I use it on the studs at the block, then ARP moly lube on the nuts and washers. ARP also makes a good teflon sealer for head bolt threads. If you use composite head gaskets, the studs or bolts usually don't leak. Steel or Cometic head haskets can seep coolant around the studs or bolts sometimes. A couple of GM/AC Delco seal tabs in the coolant stops it.

 

[MY85pontiac]

Do I need the tabs for the 8723pt1 head gaskets I have? I'll go with the head bolts to save a few bucks, I don't really need studs and they're half the price.

I don't have an issue with cooling but any suggestions on a water pump? Summit has a high volume water pump, GMB-130-1070P.

 

[ek02]

No. They will not leak, especially with bolts.

 

[MY85pontiac]

Thank you for all your help, all of you! I think I have all the information I need to build this engine. I do have 2 questions left, are there any specs that should be different from the norm? Cadillac engines have rather tight clearances for main bearings so it's suggested to go larger than called for. Are there any specs like that for the 3.8? Any suggestion for what bearings to use?

 

[ek02]

Most run .0018-.002 on the mains and .002 on the rods. Lots of bearing choices depending on power. I like King Bearings for a street engine with moderate power.

 

[charlief1]

As stated, rod and main bearings are better if they're at the bottom end of the spec. No more than .002 clearance though. Don't use a high volume oil pump kit if you can avoid it. Balance the assembly at 33.3%, which is factory spec.

 

[MY85pontiac]

I looked up King, MB443AM for main bearings, CR6616SI for rod bearings and CS429BB for cam bearings.

I was going to use a regular oil pump, I don't see the need for high volume. And what's 33.3% balance? You're gonna have to explain that one to me. It's still gonna have some shimmy and shake? LOL

 

[charlief1]

Optimum balance for a V8 engine with a 90 degree bank is 50% of the reciprocating weight. To do this with a 90 degree V6 it will create a vibration in the X axis which will be felt more. If it was a 60 or 120 degree bank then 50% would be fine, but the Buick will always have some harmonic vibration so 33.3% will reduce the vibration felt.

 

[MY85pontiac]

Ok, so when I tell the machine shop 33.3% balance they won't give me a stupid look.

 

[charlief1]

Ok, so when I tell the machine shop 33.3% balance they won't give me a stupid look.

Not if they know what they're doing.

 

[MY85pontiac]

Is the 190 worth it for the TA timing cover Vs the Dorman/Pioneer covers?

 

[ek02]

Use yours if it's in good shape. The GM covers are the best. TA uses an aftermarket cover but they machine it themselves, so if you need one get theirs. Look at the Earl Brown modifications on here. Get the end play close. .0015 at the least and .002 at the most. TA sells a shim gasket kit to get it right. They also have an adjustable oil pressure spring adjuster for adjusting above idle pressure.

 

[MY85pontiac]

I searched for what you were talking about and found a page where he tells you and shows you what to do. Looks simple enough. Looks like I get to use my rotary tool some more. I'll see if I can find an extra cover at a local yard and work on it first, just in case I goof something up, I'll still have my original cover.

 

[dr_frankenstein]

that ccc system is messing this all up.

for a cheap build this got oftly expensive. id stay with a cheapy off the shelf cam, 980 springs, cast pistons, edlebrock dual plane intake, 4 pin hei, a cast off set of hooker headers and call it done. if you going to use the CCC system why bother with anything else? Really... we all know the limitations of the CCC system, Particularly you Charlie... it supprises me to hear you say to keep it. sounds crazy to me... but my opinions are crazy anyways.

A.j.