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Coil Pack and Spark Plug wire resistance ?

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I have run plug gap all the way from .035-.020, tighter for higher boost levels. If you have a set of calipers you can check your gauges. Did all the plugs look the same?

I would clean or replace the PCV just to see.
I'll check the gauges like you suggested and yes all the plugs gapped the same. I'll check the pcv tomorrow. Thanks for he help, Kyle.
 
I think it's time to bust out the old smoke machine and check out all the darn Vac lines, cap off the exhaust and check for header leaks. Can you think of any other things I should check ?
 
I see other people suggested swapping the No1 injector. Did you try a new plug and wire on number 1 ?
 
One thing I did notice today is that my cam sensor is making a rattling sound. The car starts up fine though is this normal.
 
No it is not normal, I was thinking of having you pull the cap and check it but usually the car is hard starting or wont start. Check to see if the tab on the metal trigger is in place and the screw is tight. Also it should not have much play if you rotate it back and forth. the cap sensor should be intact with no signs of contact with the trigger.
 
No it is not normal, I was thinking of having you pull the cap and check it but usually the car is hard starting or wont start. Check to see if the tab on the metal trigger is in place and the screw is tight. Also it should not have much play if you rotate it back and forth. the cap sensor should be intact with no signs of contact with the trigger.
Ok I'll give it a check. Thanks, Kyle
 
On your vacuum gauge, when it fluctuates, does it go back and forth smoothly or does it have a 'tick' that it quickly recovers from?
 
On your vacuum gauge, when it fluctuates, does it go back and forth smoothly or does it have a 'tick' that it quickly recovers from?
Seems to have a tick that it quickly recovers from when warmed up but also fluctuates back and fourth smoothly when first started. It seems to have a more consistent idle when cold (open loop) than when it is warm, as soon as it goes into closed loop the idle starts to fluctuate and engine runs rougher. Should i try a different o2 sensor ? Thanks for the help, Kyle.
 
Since it has a tick that actually give you some clues.

I just had a teenage girl buddy show up and want to do 'undies swim' in my hottub... and she brought a friend.... I'll check back in a little while and be more helpful...

In the meantime, do a google search for tuning with a vacuum gauge and see what motion resembles yours. With any luck, you don't have something bad like a smoked valve.

Have you changed the springs yet?
 
I changed my valve springs 9 years ago with Kirbans LT1 springs, since then my car has seen less than 1,500 miles, she's mostly a garage queen. Ok I'll do some googling I hope it's not a cam issue !!!!!!!!!!!
 
Sometimes you gotta get old old school. A couple years ago, I almost tuned out a cracked exhaust valve on my BBC jetboat with carb and timing adjustments... Hooked up a vac gauge, saw the 'tick and thought to myself "Self, oh shit". Pulled the heads and saved the engine from bad bad things when that valve would have fell apart.

http://www.international-auto.com/f...uges/tips-on-reading-gauges-vacuum-gauges.cfm
 
Today I installed a new Denso 02 sensor and new spark plug wires with very little change, hooked up my bosses smoke machine to the PCV hard line port, capped off the turbo inlet and found a few tiny leaks fixed them and I noticed smoke coming out of the drivers side breather but not the pass side. Pulled both breathers off to verify and there is only smoke coming from the drivers side, what does that mean :confused: ? Also my cam sensor is diffidently making noise, it gets louder with rpm, pulled the cap and didn't see anything that stood out, I can pull the ring/shaft up about a 1/16" very little side to side play is this normal ? Thanks for the help, Kyle.
 
Also when I hold the rpm steady at about 1,500 my vacuum gauge reads 19in and absolutely no needle fluctuation at all. Would this be an indication that my cam is ok ? :) That the problem maybe valve spring/seal related ? Thanks, Kyle.
 
How many miles on the short block? Is it stock? Front cover stock?
How have you determined the noise is the cam sensor? Timing chain is stock?
 
I can pull the ring/shaft up about a 1/16" very little side to side play is this normal ? Thanks for the help, Kyle.

you need to pop the gear off and add a SBC distributor shim. When the sensor bounces up and down, the timing changes.
 
How many miles on the short block? Is it stock? Front cover stock?
How have you determined the noise is the cam sensor? Timing chain is stock?
Stock original motor 49,000 miles, I have one of those engine stethoscope the noise is realy strong when I place it on the cap and increases with rpm. I had the stock timing chain replaced with a double roller 9 years ago. I also had a new cam button, water pump and valve springs done at the same time. Do you think the cam sensor is contributing to the rough idle ?
 
It is possible, as Earl said the timing will be inconsistent with up/down play.
 
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