Connecting rods crooked?

[baby6]

Hey everybody, just got my stuff back from the machine shop (they did all the measuring and balancing, new pistons, bored .020 over, crank machined) and the machine shop ***ked up my offset. the pistons obviously fit in nicely, but the connecting rods dont match up with the journals at all. the spiral locks are already in too is there anything i can do before taking it back and complaining? Thanks

Alex

Oh, and we tried putting the piston in both ways, no luck

 

[bison]

Hey everybody, just got my stuff back from the machine shop (they did all the measuring and balancing, new pistons, bored .020 over, crank machined) and the machine shop ***ked up my offset. the pistons obviously fit in nicely, but the connecting rods dont match up with the journals at all. the spiral locks are already in too is there anything i can do before taking it back and complaining? Thanks

Alex

Oh, and we tried putting the piston in both ways, no luck

You post is confusing. What offset? The rods should be free to slide back and forth on the wrist pins. Offset is determined by the block cylinder location to the crank. Many aftermarket pistons could be installed either way also. The stock block is an off center block and the rods will never be central to the pistons when installed. Thats why its called off center. Hope this helps. Post pics of your concerns before you go complain about a problem that isnt really there.

 

[robk46]

Maybe I can clarify what my son is saying. We bought Wiseco .020 over pistons and had our stock rods reconditioned. These pistons use spiral locks and a floating pin. There is no side to side movement of the rod. We think the rod was not set up properly since #1 does not line up with the rod journal, and since there's very little side to side play, it has to be spot on. Also, what he didn't mention is the crank was supposed to be turned .010 for the mains and .010 for the rods. We put the crank in, and the mains are indeed .010, but the rod journals are definetly more that .010. I put #2 piston in, and after I torque the cap down, I can grab it with my hand and wiggle it on the crank. I mean really wobble it around. I would guess that they did .020.

 

[mikestertwo]

Maybe I can clarify what my son is saying. We bought Wiseco .020 over pistons and had our stock rods reconditioned. These pistons use spiral locks and a floating pin. There is no side to side movement of the rod. We think the rod was not set up properly since #1 does not line up with the rod journal, and since there's very little side to side play, it has to be spot on. Also, what he didn't mention is the crank was supposed to be turned .010 for the mains and .010 for the rods. We put the crank in, and the mains are indeed .010, but the rod journals are definetly more that .010. I put #2 piston in, and after I torque the cap down, I can grab it with my hand and wiggle it on the crank. I mean really wobble it around. I would guess that they did .020.

If you are using spiral locks then the rod has to float on the pin. If the pin is pressed into the rod then you cannot use the spiral locks. Sounds like you need to find another machine shop.

 

[robk46]

I don't know what I'd do without the internet! They left the spiral locks in the box with the Wiseco pistons, but they pressed the rod to the pin. We assumed we needed to put the spiral locks on so we did because. Big mistake! I just pulled them all out (I'm getting pretty good at spiral locks). We're pretty new at this, and didn't get much guidance, but we're learning the hard way. :-( The big problem I have now is the play on the rod journals. That's something they did, not anything I can fix unfortunately.

 

[Grumpy]

you should be checking all clearance's before ya start puttin it together. you just can't bolt everything up and call it a day .

 

[robk46]

Yes. I should have been doing that. I will from now on, believe me. No more assuming everything is ready to bolt in. Wish I had a grizzled veteran around here who could teach me this stuff. . .

I drove around for two hours trying to find some plastigauge. I can't believe there are no auto parts stores that have plastigauge around here. Going to try again tomorrow and find a real micrometer.

 

[jhanson1750]

I would recommend either purchacing a good set of micrometers or take all motor parts to a reputible (sp?) shop that has verifiable buick builds. If option 2 is used, ask for contact info on some of his buick customers.

I build my own and I believe anyone who knows his/her way around a toolbox and mic set can do the same. that being said it sounds like your machinist may have cut your crank 20/10 and not told you (it happens if you don't get their spec sheet and then verify all measurements yourself).
This would lead me to HAVE to check ALL other clearances before proceeding. Post any odd ball question and we will try to help. Jon Hanson

Ps, Measure, measure, measure and take notes of all numbers.

 

[robk46]

Thanks guys. I think they cut it 20/10 instead of 10/10. We're really frustrated, but at least we're learning. I'm sure we will get it worked out, and I'm going to measure everything and write it all down. I'll post it to this thread.

 

[turbofabricator]

Shoot for bearing clearances of .0017" (seventeen TEN thousanths) Go slow, don't be in a hurry. It's the details that'll mess it up. Ask on here before you assume anything.