Controlling boost creep and boost spike

"Turbo-T"

V6 on steroids
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
I think I have a little bit of both going on.

Often times when I floor the pedal, the boost will shoot from 0 straight to 26-27 psi or so before backing off to 25. The fuel pressure gauge (which is just under my boost gauge) has shown a quick spike to 69-70 psi before backing off to 67-68.

Initially I had boost set at 23 lbs but the addition of a Dutt neck IC gave me a few extra lbs and I never did back it off b/c I didn't see any knock and it was summer time.

However as of recently (as of the late fall/winter) I've encountered some knock issues that I wasn't sure if they were false or real. Before this I was running the typical Scanmaster with the slow 2.1 chip. I'd keep an eye on things but then the Caspers knock alarm started talking and the Scanmaster would start showing numbers on the screen.

I finally spent my money on a powerlogger and then got myself a lap top to log what was going on. I found that as I'd romp the pedal it would show I would start off at 21-22 psi of boost, then eventually I'd get more and more boost, finally topping out at 27.5. That's scary.

And to add to that it seemed at WOT the boost was all over the map from 21 psi to 27 psi. Why this is I'm not sure but I'd love to know. Maybe the 3 bar map sensor that came with my Alkycontrol kit is reading funny?

Someone here claimed they thought it was boost creep. I don't believe my wastegate hole is ported. I have read the fix is to take a Dremel and bore the hole to be somewhere from 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch smaller than the wastegate puck itself....and that you can use the carbon build up as a guide. Must the turbo be removed to do this?

And how do you go abouts curing boost spike?

My objective is I nail the gas and it goes to 24 psi (what I've read is the brightest a TE-60 shines on stock heads) and stays there....not decrease (unless I let off the pedal) or increase. (unless I manually crank up the boost)

Thanks in advance.
 
Speaking in generalities, you need a large enough wastegate (of whatever configuration) to control turbine speed (and thus boost).

So, you are not getting enough exhaust flow going thru the wastegate (bypassing the turbine wheel) to prevent the boost from climbing at higher RPM.

A small spike is not as much of a big deal, since at first hit your intercooler would be cooler (generally) and you would be at lower RPM (less maxed on the injectors).

Assuming that your wastegate actuator is not overtightened (limiting how far the gate can open) then porting the hole is the correct next step.

Lots of guys have ported the turbo while on the car, look up TurboDave, I think he did it that way years ago. I have not done it on-car.

Porting the hole will lower your boost, so you may need a 'high boost' actuator or something like an RJC or BoostValve unit. But do things one step at a time.

my .02$

Bob
 
I've posted about this in great detail in the past. Larger wastegate hole needs A stiffer spring if you want to run high boost.
 
I've posted about this in great detail in the past. Larger wastegate hole needs A stiffer spring if you want to run high boost.

Agreed, but I wonder if the effect would be mitigated by using an RJC/Boostvalve style device, or an electronic controller (like an ISAC...)


Bob
 
Agreed, but I wonder if the effect would be mitigated by using an RJC/Boostvalve style device, or an electronic controller (like an ISAC...)


Bob

IMO it matters totally on the ex pressure. More power with the same size hole will require more spring tension regardless of the controller used. I've seen a few in the last year that over porter the hole and had boost drop off at high rpm when they decided to run their turbo where it wants to be run. About 630whp with a gtq/.85 will start dropping boost over 5500 rpm running the hole at .110. I've never seen an instance where the turbo was run at 70% or more of the ratings on the precision site that needed the hole larger than .110. If you wanted to go over 700whp then I'd leave the hole around .100. Smaller turbines/housings need the hole large often since the owner is trying to. a lot on the table. I.e 6262 should not be used if less than 500whp is the goal. Ball bearing turbos for sub 500hp are almost never necessary if the correct converter is used.
 
IMO it matters totally on the ex pressure. More power with the same size hole will require more spring tension regardless of the controller used. I've seen a few in the last year that over porter the hole and had boost drop off at high rpm when they decided to run their turbo where it wants to be run. About 630whp with a gtq/.85 will start dropping boost over 5500 rpm running the hole at .110. I've never seen an instance where the turbo was run at 70% or more of the ratings on the precision site that needed the hole larger than .110. If you wanted to go over 700whp then I'd leave the hole around .100. Smaller turbines/housings need the hole large often since the owner is trying to. a lot on the table. I.e 6262 should not be used if less than 500whp is the goal. Ball bearing turbos for sub 500hp are almost never necessary if the correct converter is used.

As you can see posting from a smart phone sucks
 
Assuming that your wastegate actuator is not overtightened (limiting how far the gate can open) then porting the hole is the correct next step.

Porting the hole will lower your boost, so you may need a 'high boost' actuator or something like an RJC or BoostValve unit. But do things one step at a time.

Bob, I do have an RJC manual boost controller in between the turbo housing and the wastegate actuator. IIRC when I installed it, I had to set the adjustable waste gate actuator to around 17 lbs to make it work.

I currently have the RJC boost controller to overcome boost at 23-24 psi.


I've posted about this in great detail in the past. Larger wastegate hole needs A stiffer spring if you want to run high boost.

Bison, what is the stiffer spring you're referring to? Is it inside the wastegate actuator?
 
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