Crank pulley wobble

[Farrell5.0]

.020" on the balancer face is a mile. That hub should be dancing all over the place.


I'm kinda amazed the belt tentioner has kept the belt from flying off and taking out the hoodliner.

It had a good wobble for sure. I'm about to pull the balancer off. Someone has been down here before, there's a polished timing cover on it.

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[Farrell5.0]

Jk about the polished timing cover, it's just this piece attached to the balancer. I see no visible crack...is it common for them to warp?

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[Pronto]

One of my buddies had the wobble. He was worried the crank bent. Replaced it with another and everything is fine. Try a different one. If you want new, TA has one that is stock looking with a movable weight so it can be used with internal or external balance.

 

[Farrell5.0]

No no no .. Geez guys .. there is a flexplate wrench .. its only $20 bucks goes right on the flywheel teeth ..
Either have a buddy come and help you or you can position it so it grabs a solid when you turn the bolt.

If you need a stock balancer I have a few that I can get you .. but I thought you said the balancer was good and only the pulley was wobbling ?

What would you ding me for a balancer?


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[dank GN]

Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t that the whole thing behind externally balanced rotating assembly? It is balanced to that flex plate and and hub . That’s is the beauty of internally balanced stuff you can slap on any balancer and any flex plate

 

[turbo89]

Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t that the whole thing behind externally balanced rotating assembly? It is balanced to that flex plate and and hub . That’s is the beauty of internally balanced stuff you can slap on any balancer and any flex plate

That hub wont make any difference in a 5k rpm motor.. how different is 1 hub to the next.. not much

 

[earlbrown]

I see no visible crack...is it common for them to warp?

That's the thing. look at how close the threaded holes are the center mass. Even it it did warp, the area the hub bolts to won't be effected.


Since you have a dial indicator, I'd put it on the side of the crank snout and make sure it's running true. There's a chance the hub might not the reason for the runout. I can't imagine that's the case though. It'd take one hellova bent snout to give you 20thou at the bolt circle.


I guess there's always the option of facing the balancer nice and square. Only issue with that is having to shim the pulley to keep the belt alignment. With any luck it would come clean enough around .010" and be good. Based on my experience, water pump pulleys are back to far relative to the crank pulley.

 

[Farrell5.0]

That's the thing. look at how close the threaded holes are the center mass. Even it it did warp, the area the hub bolts to won't be effected.


Since you have a dial indicator, I'd put it on the side of the crank snout and make sure it's running true. There's a chance the hub might not the reason for the runout. I can't imagine that's the case though. It'd take one hellova bent snout to give you 20thou at the bolt circle.


I guess there's always the option of facing the balancer nice and square. Only issue with that is having to shim the pulley to keep the belt alignment. With any luck it would come clean enough around .010" and be good. Based on my experience, water pump pulleys are back to far relative to the crank pulley.

I'll check the crank snout, but I'm with you on that it would have to have a serious bend in it to cause that much runout. And I just don't see how that would be possible. I'll throw the balancer on my lathe tomorrow and see what can be done.

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[earlbrown]

Oh hell, if you've got a lathe you're set. As long as your jaws are in good shape it'll take seconds to verify the face is square with the bore.

A surface plate and or a precision square would be even better if you have one of those.

 

[Farrell5.0]

Oh hell, if you've got a lathe you're set. As long as your jaws are in good shape it'll take seconds to verify the face is square with the bore.

A surface plate and or a precision square would be even better if you have one of those.

I do have a set of machinist squares. I'll report back with findings when I'm done.

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[Farrell5.0]

It is indeed the pulley, but it's appears it's not warped, but un-parallel to the bore. I bought one off a member that he's sending today.

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[earlbrown]

How much would it have taken to clean it up? Was your .020"?reading on the outer lip or the outside of the bolt circle?


Since you've got it in a lathe, if it's only going to need .010" or 012"ish, I'd just face it and let it fly.

 

[Farrell5.0]

How much would it have taken to clean it up? Was your .020"?reading on the outer lip or the outside of the bolt circle?


Since you've got it in a lathe, if it's only going to need .010" or 012"ish, I'd just face it and let it fly.

The .02" is right outside the bolt circle. It'd take the full .02" off the heaviest spot to clean up.

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[earlbrown]

I'd still cut it.


Or better yet, chuck up the hub too and see if its parallel. You might be .0.15" or .020" off and can re-index the hub to cancel out.

 

[Farrell5.0]

I got the new-to-me balancer on and checked the runout, it's at .002". I only need to put the intercooler on at this point but I don't know if I'll get around to it today. I think it's safe to say though at this point all will be well.

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[Farrell5.0]

Got it fired up and it's perfect [emoji106] thanks all.

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[TurboBob]

exactly which piece was out? the "balancer" (hub), or the pulley?

did you machine it?

Bob

 

[Farrell5.0]

exactly which piece was out? the "balancer" (hub), or the pulley?

did you machine it?

Bob

The balancer. The bore wasn't cut perpendicular to the mounting face for the pulley. I'm sure it could have been cut and not cause any problems, but I replaced it with another stock balancer.

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