Critique my engine build!!

[Brandon706]

My goal is to have high 10 second power with about 26 psi on pump gas and alky. The car will be 98% street, I want to take it to the track maybe once or twice a year but I want to be strong enough to stand up to dyno sessions and street abuse.

What I planned to purchase
6266 turbo
race ported stock heads
champion ported intake
Full throttle cam kit 210/215
billet mains

What I am not sure about is the rotating assembly I know at least forged pistons and reconditioned rods. I am not sure is it worth upgrading to the forged stoker rotating assembly or not I would like your guys input. thanks in advance

 

[ttaowner]

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/th...-rusty-silver-bullet-seeking-10s-asap.400319/



your answers are in the above thread

 

[Brandon706]

That's a great read but not exactly what I'm looking for. I know u can push a stock regal into the 10s with simple mods but it is not to last that long. my car is frame off build. The engine is out the car now to be rebuilt. I just want a strong engine to fit my needs but I want durability. I am just trying to figure out to forge or not the rotating assembly

 

[blackgn1]

I have been 130mph in the 1/4 with a stock bottom end. I just did a girdle. I have had no issues but not saying it's the best idea I've ever had. I have a good tune and that's very important. It will run a 10 second pass time and time again without high boost.

 

[Jay J]

I think you just answered your own question. Start with a strong foundation, built for the long run and enjoy it.

 

[750H.P.V6]

It makes sense to overbuild the engine for your current goals because typically you'll get accustomed to your new power level and want more. Then it will be a bigger turbo, injectors, more boost etc. Go with a forged crank rods and pistons and two billet caps at the #2 and #3 positions and you'll have a solid foundation that will take you where you want to go without breaking the bank.

Neal

 

[dirtymax731]

As far as I understand it doesn't cost that much anymore for forged internals? (Could be wrong) build it strong and don't worry about pushing the envelope.

Sent while napping in a walnut orchard

 

[tbone87]

The good stuff still breaks pretty quick if u don't have a good tune!! That is the main part!!

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

 

[blackgn1]

If you're 98% street why spend all the green on a forged bottom end? I'm 98% track and I haven't broke anything. It's all in the tune. 10 second power on the street is a handful. I have started a build with a stroker rotating assembly which is forged but it's a "set on kill" track car. I can't see the need in a forged bottom end on a street car. Just my opinion. Let the blasting begin.

 

[Jay J]

As Neal stated above: "you'll get accustomed to your new power level and want more." If he does the forged bottom end, it will be ready for whatever (well, almost) he has in store for it...

 

[750H.P.V6]

If you're 98% street why spend all the green on a forged bottom end? I'm 98% track and I haven't broke anything. It's all in the tune. 10 second power on the street is a handful. I have started a build with a stroker rotating assembly which is forged but it's a "set on kill" track car. I can't see the need in a forged bottom end on a street car. Just my opinion. Let the blasting begin.

I get what you're saying. We built plenty of combos with stock cranks and rods and had good results. This was back in the day when you couldn't buy forged cranks and rods for a Buick V6 unless you wanted to order custom parts and spend huge dollars. These days forged cranks are cheaper than new stock cranks used to be when you could get them from GM. Forged rods are so reasonable in price that it isn't worth resizing a set of stock rods with ARP bolts etc. As far as pistons go you're going to buy those anyway. It will cost you more but it's good insurance.

Neal

 

[goche4]

just go forged rotating assembly and the 2 billet caps and less worries.

 

[Rose]

You wouldn't regret going forged.

 

[Brandon706]

Yeah I am thinking going forged probably another 1000 dollars more plus a damper and flexplate. I know will be satisfied with this power level, no further upgrades. I just want similar power to my Chevelle 500 plus to the wheels without being a time bomb.

 

[we4Mateo]

Yeah I am thinking going forged probably another 1000 dollars more plus a damper and flexplate. I know will be satisfied with this power level, no further upgrades. I just want similar power to my Chevelle 500 plus to the wheels without being a time bomb.

500+rwhp is always a time bomb with a small CI 6 cylinder. A good tune and it'll last a real long time, but one hiccup like a voltage drop or too much timing with bad gas and it'll let go regardless of the build.

 

[psycho6cyl]

I.once had unprotected sex w a girl.and left it in. She didnt get pregnant. I guess its the same playing w stock stuff w lots of hp..sometimes you get lucky zand sometimes you dont.. it only takes once. Lol

 

[earlbrown]

Much like our cars, you gotta get out and wax that facade.

 

[goche4]

nice chevelle easy on the road to many trees

 

[Rell87]

Forged

 

[Eticket]

how about the rest of the planned mods and combo and budget? if you can afford it, the forged bottom end is great like others said because you have room to grow into more power. It itself doesn't have much effect on power except for in some cases - pistons and rotating mass. Unfortunately, sometimes when you over cam or over turbo for the goal, the car actually doesn't perform like you think it should because the combination may or may not be built for the way you plan on running it.