Curt's White pearl project

Update, Just doing some bondo work. Still have some to do. Lots of small dings and waves in the door panels.
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Update. Body work is complete, car is all sanded again with 180. Time to re-epoxy prime the entire car and apply 2K turbo fill primer. Then the hood and truck will be removed so they can be painted on the insides. Should have color going down on jams after Thanksgiving, and base in December sometime.IMAG1026-1.jpgtn.jpegtn_2.jpegtn-1.jpegtn-2.jpegtn-3.jpegtn-4.jpeg
 
Update. Car has been re-epoxy primed and the entire car has been sanded again with 180 grit. Then Fill primed with SPI Turbo 2K fill primer. Time to remove the trunk and hood and start prepping jams for base color! Both colors are
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in color. The epoxy has more of a shine and the fill primer is dull in color.
 
Update, just got the trunk and doors and inner door jam ready for base color for Tuesday. Hood is painted flat black and masked already. Doors are seam sealed also. Can't wait to see this white pearl color. It better look good for $427.00 for just the base color.:eek:
 

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A few more pictures. The back bumper was ripped off when the quarter panel was damaged, so I did a quick fix to the area to hold the new bumper supports.
 

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Update, Jams are cut in. The pearl is there but i will have to wait until tomorrow to pull something outside to really see it in the sun. First picture is the trunk in epoxy sealer.
 

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One outside shot. It's white for sure and the pearl is there. Just not the wow factor i was thinking i would see. But it does look nice.
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progress looks great !!! can't wait for the final photos . you are blessed with fine craftsmanship . keep up the great work...
X2
It's nice to see someone take pride in what they do. This beautiful car should be around for many years of enjoyment. Thanks Tony for taking the time to show people how it should be done.:)

Mike Barnard
 
Update, I have officially went backwards today. After installing the passanger door i could not get the gaps to look perfect so i decided to remove both fenders and see what was going on. After doing some measurements i found the front to be out of square by almost 1/2 inch from side to side. And to top it all off there was cracks in the inner wells around the hood hinge point areas on both sides. Also there was a good size crack on the fender where it bolt the driver side hinge too. Got it all squared up and welded all the cracks and now i will start to install the fenders again. Hope the other new hinge for the driver side shows up soon, it was bad and the bearing was sized up. It will make it all worth while for all the extra work once i get it back together. What a day!
 

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It looks really good. what spray gun? Tip size? and psi you using please. I'm not seeing much orange peel at all.
My gun is Devilbiss finishline FLG3 with a 1.3, 1.5, 1.8 and 2.2 mm tips and I shoot at 10-11 psi at the gun. I get
real smooth coverage on the basecoat using the 1.3 mm tip. I'm getting more orange peel than I like to see when
I shoot the clear. It helps some to increase air pressure, but I'm still spending a lot of time wet sanding. I know I'm not using
a Sata...but dang. Today I shot a bunch of parts with the SEM trim black and everything came out really smooth and
factory looking using the 1.3 mm tip. Just wondering if you have some secret method shooting clear that I'm not knowing
about. Smaller tip size maybe?
Thanks,
Howard
 
Subscribed! Looks phenomenal! I went through some of your older threads, sure wish I was a member 2 years ago, especially since I was in Detroit area. I'd love to have my car painted by you sir! Happy Holidays and Cheers!
 
It looks really good. what spray gun? Tip size? and psi you using please. I'm not seeing much orange peel at all.
My gun is Devilbiss finishline FLG3 with a 1.3, 1.5, 1.8 and 2.2 mm tips and I shoot at 10-11 psi at the gun. I get
real smooth coverage on the basecoat using the 1.3 mm tip. I'm getting more orange peel than I like to see when
I shoot the clear. It helps some to increase air pressure, but I'm still spending a lot of time wet sanding. I know I'm not using
a Sata...but dang. Today I shot a bunch of parts with the SEM trim black and everything came out really smooth and
factory looking using the 1.3 mm tip. Just wondering if you have some secret method shooting clear that I'm not knowing
about. Smaller tip size maybe?
Thanks,
Howard
Here is something written by Berry from SPI that i think you will enjoy. I use a Awata 400 LPH with a 1.3 cap.
This may sound trivial to an experienced painter but the fact is very few painters know how to adjust their paint gun. This one item separates a sprayer from a painter more than anything else. The fact is a painter that knows how to fine tune his paint gun will turn a lot more hours and have a lot less problems because he is controlling the paint and is not letting the paint control him. This is why 80-90% of the painters today hate to spray High Solids clears. They vision runs or orange peel and if you don’t adjust the gun properly this is what you will get make no doubt about it.
First of all the number one question I get is what tip should I use? My personal feeling is for basecoat a 1.3 or 1.4 and for clear 1.4. The exception on the 1.4 for spraying clear would be certain HVLP guns where a 1.5 is made for spraying clear. And of course a true painter is only going to use gravity feed gun. Leave the old siphon feed guns for the enamel sprayers that they are made for, as these guns have no place in today’s body shops that are using Urethanes and Polyurethane’s.
What happens with an improperly adjusted paint gun?
If you’re applying basecoat chances are you’re applying it way too heavy and your blends are showing, your metallic are not lying down or standing out like they should so your color marches are a problem and the base is drying slower between coats than it should.
The number one clue the basecoat is going on too heavy is if you’re having a dieback problem with the clear after setting overnight (trapped solvents).
If you’re applying clear the clear is controlling you instead of you controlling the clear. With a High Solids clear you try to spray it wet enough that the orange peel will flow out but hope that it doesn’t flow so much that it runs on you. The next day you tend to have a clear that looks cloudy or milky because of the trapped solvents and it requires a lot of wet sanding.
The benefits of adjusting the paint gun properly will be faster application of paint and you will know what the final job will look like when you spray it and not have to guess.
How do I properly adjust my gun?
Place a piece of masking paper on the wall, then set the fan how you like it. Adjust the air pressure to the rate that you plan to spray with. Screw in the fluid adjustment all the way. Hold the gun from the paper the distance that you would normally spray (usually 6-8 inches) and give the trigger a quick squeeze and release. If anything comes out of the gun it should be very little and dry.
Turn the fluid out one full turn and repeat this procedure half a turn at a time until you are getting an even pattern and the paint is even in build. If it is metallic the metallic should spray even as well.
At this point go to a rocker or bottom of a fender on the car and make a 12-inch pass. You will most likely have to back the fluid out one-half to one full turn to spray at the speed you want then fine tune your air pressure.
Now the gun is very close in adjustment, you should be able to lay the clear orange peel free with out running it, and metallic should spray even and wet with out much effort. Keep in mind this is not your last adjustment; every base color will spray a little different and may require a half a turn in or out for the new color. If you're going from a high solids clear for an all-over to a spot repair clear you will need to make a minor adjustment again.
A simple formula to remember is orange peel is fluid adjustment and run control is an air pressure adjustment. If you’re getting a few runs try upping the air pressure 5-10 pounds more.
One final note, spend the money for a good set of paint guns! This is your career and the paint gun makes or breaks you as far as labor hours turned. NASCAR drivers don’t buy their race engines at a parts store to save money, so why would a painter want a $200 gun? Spent the $400-600 for a good base gun and again for a good clear gun the payback will be faster than you think. You will always get what you pay for with a paint gun!
 
It looks really good. what spray gun? Tip size? and psi you using please. I'm not seeing much orange peel at all.
My gun is Devilbiss finishline FLG3 with a 1.3, 1.5, 1.8 and 2.2 mm tips and I shoot at 10-11 psi at the gun. I get
real smooth coverage on the basecoat using the 1.3 mm tip. I'm getting more orange peel than I like to see when
I shoot the clear. It helps some to increase air pressure, but I'm still spending a lot of time wet sanding. I know I'm not using
a Sata...but dang. Today I shot a bunch of parts with the SEM trim black and everything came out really smooth and
factory looking using the 1.3 mm tip. Just wondering if you have some secret method shooting clear that I'm not knowing
about. Smaller tip size maybe?
Thanks,
Howard
The gun will make a difference. That is a cheap gun. It might need more air pressure than they recommend. Also adjusting in the fluid will help. Pattern size makes a difference as well. I spray base and clear with 1.3 Sata's. I have a old Sata NR95 with a 1.5 and it sprays finer than the 1.3's. It is my sealer gun now, and when I spray solvent base I will use it.
 
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