Cuts out while rolling into boost

[RED LS1]

I'm skimming here so forgive me if I missed this. Have you tried swapping or testing the coil pack? I understand you're describing something worse than a miss but this fall very close to the line of bad coil pack. I had this same thing going on. I could ease slowly into WOT and hold that but if I just aggressively got into the boost it would buck down hard. I chased vacuum problems and changed chips and did a bunch of stuff for a long time but the day I swapped out the cp it solved it instantly.

 

[dank GN]

what valve springs are you running? Do you know what pressure you have on the seat? Open?

 

[dank GN]

Also have you looked at your fuseable links ? They are pretty old and run right by your hot ass headers . Over time they tend to do some weird things . It kinda sounds like one of your main power wires is grounding out for a sec . I definitely would check them out .

 

[Norman C Shibley]

Also have you looked at your fuseable links ? They are pretty old and run right by your hot ass headers . Over time they tend to do some weird things . It kinda sounds like one of your main power wires is grounding out for a sec . I definitely would check them out .

PAC 1201 springs and yes that is my thought as well. I'm going to replace my MAF just as a precautionary measure for the reasons described above but that will be one of my areas of focus along with the orange ECM wire, ECM connectors, module connector and TPS. Does someone make some sort of relocation kit for those fusable links or is it just a matter of doing it yourself? Forgive my racing ignorance but what would valve springs have to do with moderate boost cut out and not WOT?

 

[dank GN]

PAC 1201 springs and yes that is my thought as well. I'm going to replace my MAF just as a precautionary measure for the reasons described above but that will be one of my areas of focus along with the orange ECM wire, ECM connectors, module connector and TPS. Does someone make some sort of relocation kit for those fusable links or is it just a matter of doing it yourself? Forgive my racing ignorance but what would valve springs have to do with moderate boost cut out and not WOT?

If you have weak valve springs you will start to float valves and it will be like you hit a rpm limit.

 

[V6sleeper]

Check the hot wire kit behind the alternator , i had a car years ago with the same symptoms and that was the issue, some kind of loose connector was cutting out the fuel pump.

 

[Norman C Shibley]

Check the hot wire kit behind the alternator , i had a car years ago with the same symptoms and that was the issue, some kind of loose connector was cutting out the fuel pump.

Interesting, the previous owner installed one of those I believe. I'll add that to my list of checks....thanks

 

[Tony N]

Check the crank sensor. That was the issue for me. If it starts up right after it cuts out that can be the problem. It started cutting off every once in a while last summer. This summer it cut off every time after thirty minutes of driving. The car cut off twice going into boost you'd can easly think it was a maf issue cause it fluttered and cut out. It's just a list of diagnostics you have to perform i.e; battery cables to starter, engine grounds, condition of ecu orange wire, harness seated properly to ecu, chip seated properly in ecu, tap maf no stumble not a maf issue, ign coil check ohms, module, fuel pressure blips or dips for fuel pump inconsistencies issues, cam sensor and crank sensor. Start with least difficult to difficult. If it happens to be the crank sensor and you have a new style crank sensor bracket on your engine, its an easy fix.

 

[Norman C Shibley]

Check the crank sensor. That was the issue for me. If it starts up right after it cuts out that can be the problem. It started cutting off every once in a while last summer. This summer it cut off every time after thirty minutes of driving. The car cut off twice going into boost you'd can easly think it was a maf issue cause it fluttered and cut out. It's just a list of diagnostics you have to perform i.e; battery cables to starter, engine grounds, condition of ecu orange wire, harness seated properly to ecu, chip seated properly in ecu, tap maf no stumble not a maf issue, ign coil check ohms, module, fuel pressure blips or dips for fuel pump inconsistencies issues, cam sensor and crank sensor. Start with least difficult to difficult. If it happens to be the crank sensor and you have a new style crank sensor bracket on your engine, its an easy fix.

It never fully stalls out. Feels more like an intercooler hose blew off but you can apply power immediately after. And it never happens under WOT. But yes, I will be checking that and the thrust washer integrity on the crank. Thanks

 

[TurboTGuy]

This is the silliest fix in the world, but I chased this problem for months.

Make sure your coil pack is cinched down tight. Ensure the two clip/spring screws on each side of the coil pack are synched/clamped down tight.

Good luck.

 

[GNRick]

I thought your car died out completely. So I have changed my vote to crank sensor.

 

[MaxVO2]

*****Crank sensor. Easy fix and relatively cheap compared to having car towed home or to shop when it fails completely.

 

[salvageV6]

Does the chip reset its programming when it happens?

Does the service engine light flicker when it happens?

 

[Norman C Shibley]

Does the chip reset its programming when it happens?

Does the service engine light flicker when it happens?

Service engine light or dash lights never appear to come on but it happens so fast there really is no time to notice. How would I know through the scanmaster if the chip reset? BLM and INT go back to 128?

 

[dynoman]

I have been chasing this issue for about 3 years now and would love some pointers as to where to look.

Like I said before , get a PowerLogger and log every time you take it out , until it acts up . Then we will have the data we need to diagnose your problem , until then we're shooting in the dark . I had a similar problem with the car cutting out during a run and the PowerLogger showed everything dropping out for a split second . It pointed me to a bad connector at the ECM , which I replaced and problem solved . We need hard data or you'll spend twice as much replacing parts .
Where are you located ?? Maybe someone near by can help .

 

[salvageV6]

Depends upon the chip and what if anything is changed from the default programming.

 

[Jerryl]

Depends upon the chip and what if anything is changed from the default programming.

Exactly.

OP, my short term recommended test:
Drive around "easy" for a while and observe/wait for the idle BLM number to change. After it is anything other than 128, try to duplicate the part throttle issue. Immediately after you sense it, pull over and observe the idle BLM. That will tell tell us a lot without a scan tool.

 

[Norman C Shibley]

what valve springs are you running? Do you know what pressure you have on the seat? Open?

PAC 1201 and I replaced the MAF sensor with a new one from Eric and so far no issues

 

[TurboBuRick]

Where is your AFR gauge mounted? Try and focus on it, as long as its not down on the console.
You should see go rich lean right before it nose dives.

What do you have your alky knob set to? Maybe its ramping up too quick.

A lot of great suggestions here.

 

[Norman C Shibley]

PAC 1201 and I replaced the MAF sensor with a new one from Eric and so far no issues

Did it again on May 1 where I rolled into boost and it suddenly cut out as if something killed the motor but I could immediately re apply power. Will install a new crank sensor as I've had this car for 7 years and it's not been done.