I will definitely look into my fuel, my volts were down according to power logger probably caused fuel volume to go lean, looks like head gasket blew better than hole in piston. and now what replacement head gasket is good to use mayb the one from RJC racing and also what head bolts to use. Now that i have this side off should i take other side off and replace it also, here is a pic of head gasket thanks for everyons advise
cylinder one zero pressure
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if the damage is localized to just the gasket, I wouldn't bother pulling the other head. Just get a replacement gasket and a set of ARP bolts or studs and put it back together.
I would also drop the pan and get EVERY BIT of antifreeze out of it before putting it back together. plus it'll show you if any timing gear teeth are in the oil pickup. Have you changed the timing set yet?
I would also drop the pan and get EVERY BIT of antifreeze out of it before putting it back together. plus it'll show you if any timing gear teeth are in the oil pickup. Have you changed the timing set yet?
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Definitely better than a fried piston! 
Those are
gaskets IMO. No good for 30psi.
There's allot to be on top of when your pushing that kind of boost. The fuel pump will fail you first. It is the weak link in our cars. The more pressure that is demanded, the less volume the pump will move. Exactly the opposite of what the motor needs.
A set of double pumps with better grounds and a good alternator is a must. Specially if you want to push boost that high.
I run cometic hg's but they are like a 60amp fuse. They don't blow. Instead you do worse damage when things go wrong.
Rick
Those are
gaskets IMO. No good for 30psi. There's allot to be on top of when your pushing that kind of boost. The fuel pump will fail you first. It is the weak link in our cars. The more pressure that is demanded, the less volume the pump will move. Exactly the opposite of what the motor needs.
A set of double pumps with better grounds and a good alternator is a must. Specially if you want to push boost that high.
I run cometic hg's but they are like a 60amp fuse. They don't blow. Instead you do worse damage when things go wrong.
Rick
I would HIGHLY suggest doing the other side ... if the one side detonated to that point .. how are you so sure that damage hasn't started on the other side ... your there anyway and your running serious boost ... it would suck to do all that work only to find you had a marginal gasket that you didn't check blow in short term. Its the cost of another gasket .. your gonna upgrade the headbolts on the one side and not do the other ??
I learned my lesson early on .. when one goes .. ALWAYS do the other side... or you will be back ... its a 50/50 shot if you don't
Agreed .... make sure all the debris is cleaned out ... most guys will just slam it back together and then wipe the bottom end from debris built up on pump inlet
Be careful how well you seal up the heads .. running super duper LEAK PROOF head gaskets and sealing them tight as a drum isn't a real good idea... if it detonates at some point that pressure has to go somewhere.. better the head gasket than sending the crank out ... the head gaskets are a FUSE .... the real solution is to NOT DETONATE ... figure out where the issue is.
Quality head bolts are important .. clean surfaces are important .. torque sequences are important .
Curious what fuel pump were you using ? What voltage did the PL see ? did you have a hotwire kit ? did you ever verify actual voltage AT THE PUMP ?
TexasT
Texas, Where are you from
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I guess a mod cleaned it up and I did in my original post. so here it is again.
I bought the top end kit from fts. to hg and intake gaskets. and a set of arp studs.
I just fixed the broke side. My grand dad used to tell me, "If it aint' broke, dont fix it".
I went back with stock victor reinz as I like the fuse aspect and didnt want to have bigger damage, not if but when I make a tuning mistake.
I bought the top end kit from fts. to hg and intake gaskets. and a set of arp studs.
I just fixed the broke side. My grand dad used to tell me, "If it aint' broke, dont fix it".
I went back with stock victor reinz as I like the fuse aspect and didnt want to have bigger damage, not if but when I make a tuning mistake.
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In the hundreds of head gaskets I have replace blown like yours, I have never seen the other side gasket NOT damaged. 
Do the smart thing and change the other gasket while you are 3/4ths of the way there.
In my opinion of what went wrong is that you were lean and too much timing, but also there was not enough fuel being supplied for it to go that lean. We never run that much timing even with a race engine?
The alky is there primarily for cooling in the combustion chamber, but there was not enough 100 gas to support the HP being developed.
So you need to evaluate fuel delivery which includes the pump, and sufficient power/voltage at the pump
Do the smart thing and change the other gasket while you are 3/4ths of the way there.
In my opinion of what went wrong is that you were lean and too much timing, but also there was not enough fuel being supplied for it to go that lean. We never run that much timing even with a race engine?
The alky is there primarily for cooling in the combustion chamber, but there was not enough 100 gas to support the HP being developed.
So you need to evaluate fuel delivery which includes the pump, and sufficient power/voltage at the pump
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Or anything with any real power vs displacement.I bet your grand dad never worked on a turbo Buick!
I have a tt340 pump with hotwire my PL volts was only reading 12v when at full throttle, it use to read 13.3v at full throttle and at pump it was 12.8 to 13v but i think with the new ally kit it draws more voltage when on so i all have to check out why. i will change the other side also since i have to buy both hg any way. Any one have any ideas why it looks like my lifters look they are not centered on lobes or is it ok.as in pic on earlier post thanks
You are making a big mistake if you don't do the other side. Look at cylinder number three on you blown gasket. It's pushed ! The other side will be the same.
Pull the oil pan, the pickup screen will be full of head gasket material, restricting oil flow to the pump.
Listen to us, we've be there.
Just because it doesn't appear to be broke is not good advice in this case.
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Pull the oil pan, the pickup screen will be full of head gasket material, restricting oil flow to the pump.
Listen to us, we've be there.
Just because it doesn't appear to be broke is not good advice in this case.
Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
Check em.. your there..especially considering you are running some boost ( hard on springs) for $45 bucks you can put new ones in less than an hour and shim them correctly.. while you are doing that I would look at the valves and seats ( when Im that deep already I lap the valves) .. it adds 2 hours total for springs and lap and cleaning .. but the results are ALWAYS worth it
Do yourself a favor your this deep into it .. spend the extra few hours and extra pennies on the dollar and you know when you put it back together that it is as good as it can be... you will thank yourself later. Its small details like these that differentiate an average running car from a exceptional running car .. DETAILS DETAILS DETAILS
This is excellent information.. appreciate the POST ... I Hope the E85 guys are paying attention
The voltage is a problem. The alky kit draws more amps, but if your regulator is working properly, you should not have a voltage drop like you have. I believe this is why you went lean and pushed a gasket. Get this figured out before you go pounding on it again. Pumps need voltage; especially at your power level.
