Damn fuse keeps blowing

GNRick

Retired member
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
How can I trouble shoot a fuse that has a dead short in the circuit? It is # 19 on the fuse chart on page 6-6 of the owners manual for my 87 GN. It used to only blow at the track. I would put a new fuse in it and it was fine for a while. Now it blows immediately. The things on the circuit per the owner's manual are: clock, lighter (lighter works fine, must be on another circuit), glove box lamp, antenna (not hooked up-maybe the wire is dangling behind the radio), radio capacitor (what's that?) dome light (metal tabs are rusty), trunk and reading lights, door locks (they work with the alarm when i press the key fob- alarm is new and this was happening with old alarm too), under hood light, lights at floor board. I also have VDO gauges -clock and transmission temp-that were installed by prior owner. These don't work either. I tried disconnecting them at the guages and put in a new fuse which still blew immediately. Thanks.
 
I disconnected the light sockets in the trunk and under the hood. Didn't help. I guess the wire could be frayed somewhere but I thought that would be an easy place to start.:mad:
 
Wire to lite in the shifter gotten pinched/shorted? Pull the top off the console, and trace it back...
 
I assume you are using a test light in the fuse position while you are trying to find the short?

I had the same exact problem...and intermittent short that turned into a short all the time. It turned out to be the wiring connector off the harness that goes to the under hood light. If your hood light is disconnected take a look and see where the other end of the wires is. I might have dropped down near the headers melting the connector to a metal part causing a short.
 
#19 is the CIG/CLK fuse.

I'd start in the radio area, aftermarket gauge area which shouldn't be tied into a fuse that's always hot anyway, and look to see why the lighter would still work without the fuse being good.

You have more than one wiring issue here.

Aftermarket gauges should be on an IGN slot or switched circuit, the CIG/CLK fuse is always hot and for lighter, interior lamps, hood and trunk lamps, and most certainly check the aftermarket alarm wiring, door locks should be dead with the buttons on the door also with a blown fuse.

Also check the orange vanity mirror light wire if you have that option.

A/C control head has an orange wire off that fuse.

As does the radio for memory operation.

Lots to check with that one.
 
Wire to lite in the shifter gotten pinched/shorted? Pull the top off the console, and trace it back...
I fixed that one a year ago. Symptom was no dash lights, no console light, and no tail lights.

I assume you are using a test light in the fuse position while you are trying to find the short?

I had the same exact problem...and intermittent short that turned into a short all the time. It turned out to be the wiring connector off the harness that goes to the under hood light. If your hood light is disconnected take a look and see where the other end of the wires is. I might have dropped down near the headers melting the connector to a metal part causing a short.
Thanks for the tip. I'll check it tonight and get back to you. I sure hope that's it!

#19 is the CIG/CLK fuse.

I'd start in the radio area, aftermarket gauge area which shouldn't be tied into a fuse that's always hot anyway, and look to see why the lighter would still work without the fuse being good.

I've had lighter problems since I bought the car 5 years ago. I've replaced the lighter several times and must have wired it somewhere else.
You have more than one wiring issue here.

Aftermarket gauges should be on an IGN slot or switched circuit, the CIG/CLK fuse is always hot and for lighter, interior lamps, hood and trunk lamps, and most certainly check the aftermarket alarm wiring, door locks should be dead with the buttons on the door also with a blown fuse.
As for the gauges, one is the VDO clock and the other is the transmission temperature. They are wired together and then work off the fuse that controls the clock. Probably not the best scenario for the transmission temperature gauge. Thanks for the tip. I never did understand why the door locks are dead at the switch on the door, but do get power through the alarm, with the blown fuse. When the fuse worked, the door locks worked with the switch on the door.
Also check the orange vanity mirror light wire if you have that option.

A/C control head has an orange wire off that fuse.

As does the radio for memory operation.

Lots to check with that one.

And lots of good info. Thanks!
 
It makes good sense to run the clock off that wire and fuse for sure, but you should separate the tranny temp. gauge if you can.

I would next check the connector on the left side of the fuse panel separate this 11 pin connector and try a new fuse.

It divides the circuits on that fuse in half when you remove it and perhaps can narrow it down if the fuse holds or blows again.

Under the hazard flasher and to the left.

C209 and picture 201-13-c if you have a service manual.
 
I found the problem. When I bought the car, the cig. lighter wasn't working. I think the fuse was blown at that time, about 5-6 years ago. I guess at some point when I replaced the lighter, I connected the lighter to a hot wire that powered the radio. Well, the original lighter hot wire was just dangling there. Maybe I put tape over the bare end at one time, but anyway there was no tape over it now and it must have been shorting out. Don't ask why I didn't just cut the end off. :confused: I reconnected it to the lighter where it belongs and so far so good. I picked up a circuit breaker type of fuse at parts store-it clicks and resets automatically every 7-10 seconds when there is a dead short. Sure beats blowing fuses! Thanks for the help everyone!
 
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