Did a Baer conversion front and rear, now have issues.

[HzEmall Regal]

I have searched here and it appears there is alot of different things that people say so I thought I would just come out and ask.

We did the Baer 13" on the front and the Baer 12" on the rear. We pump the brakes and the pedal goes soft. SO.......

1. Should we just get a MC/Booster set up from a normal Disk/Drum G Body and then get the vacum plate from Casper ? Is there any special instructions or things you guys have found doing this set up ?

2. Does the MC/Booster set up have to be off a 4w disc car ? (94-96 impala)

What is the best and quickest way to fix this car ?

HELP

 

[Turbo6inKY]

To get those disc rears to work optimally, you need a bigger master cylinder and and adjustable proportioning valve.

However, mushy pedal tells me you need to go bleed them again.

 

[WHITE T]

Tim,

You want to stay with the small bore master that was used on the G-body, don't use the bigger bore master.

It can be off a standard Regal/G-body with a booster.

HTH

 

[Turboterrorist]

I'd get a MC for a 4 wheel disc setup. Check this out http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/images/pic03_brakefacts.gif maybe try a 2 lb residual pressure valve for the rears. Still think you should be pretty close if the system is free of air certainly not mushy.
Mike

 

[bruce]

We did the Baer 13" on the front and the Baer 12" on the rear. We pump the brakes and the pedal goes soft. SO.......
1. Should we just get a MC/Booster set up from a normal Disk/Drum G Body and then get the vacum plate from Casper ? Is there any special instructions or things you guys have found doing this set up ?
2. Does the MC/Booster set up have to be off a 4w disc car ? (94-96 impala)
What is the best and quickest way to fix this car ?

A mushy pedal is an indicator of air in the lines, or the M/C having an internal leak.

There are several threads over at T6 about brakes. One being:

http://www.t6p.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9516