Different electric vacuum pump

[CTX-SLPR]

I just ran across someone on DF's new car project board CarJunkieTV.com where they are using a Ford Taurus SHO V8 electricThermactor pump as a vacuum pump and claiming what I believe is constant duty and more vacuum drop to the tune of 4-6in of Hg at WOT on an NA car and claiming that it kept up on a turbo V8 mustang but I don't know what that phrase "kept up" ment to him. Anyone here ever toyed with one of these?

Thanks,

 

[Nick Micale]

Did not see the pump they were using, but I have used a Ford electric vac pump for years on my engine, from a Mustang I think as I got it used.

It will pull 6"+ vac at 7000 RPM.

Since I log crankcase vac, I have verified this over a couple hundred runs.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

How do you have it plumbed in and do you use it on the street? I'm all for the idea of a constant use vacuum pump I can use on the street.

 

[chasmat2316]

I would like to hear ore info also! Was just thinking of buying a LT -1 pump!

 

[Nick Micale]

Street or strip, they need to be "plumbed" the same.

I use 2 Mr.Gasket or Moroso breathers with nipples on both VC's. Hoses from each are tee'd together and go into an oil separator before the vac pump. Outlet of the pump goes into a catch can.

PCV and oil dipstick tube are plugged or sealed.

If high RPM is planned, it is best to use VC's that have the breathers as close to the front of the engine as possible to help eliminate oil being pulled out.

 

[chasmat2316]

Street or strip, they need to be "plumbed" the same.

I use 2 Mr.Gasket or Moroso breathers with nipples on both VC's. Hoses from each are tee'd together and go into an oil separator before the vac pump. Outlet of the pump goes into a catch can.

PCV and oil dipstick tube are plugged or sealed.

If high RPM is planned, it is best to use VC's that have the breathers as close to the front of the engine as possible to help eliminate oil being pulled out.

any pic's of your setup? thanx for any info!

 

[CTX-SLPR]

I would also like to see a picture though I am quite sure I know how you did it. Do you run it constantly on the street or on a Hobbes switch?

 

[Nick Micale]

As they say " you cannot have your cake and eat it too"!

You cannot seal up your engine and then evacuate the crankcase only part time. If you do not "seal" the leaks, you will not pull proper vacuum.

If you leave the factory "evac system" [pipe from VC to turbo inlet], it will work fine for the street application.

With high RPM seen in track or racing applications, a vac pump is then needed, or at least highly desirable.

There are many discussions and comments that do NOT differentiate between street and strip applications, components and methods. I do not consider a vac system necessary for a street car, or that it will be of any benefit.

 

[chasmat2316]

As they say " you cannot have your cake and eat it too"!

You cannot seal up your engine and then evacuate the crankcase only part time. If you do not "seal" the leaks, you will not pull proper vacuum.

If you leave the factory "evac system" [pipe from VC to turbo inlet], it will work fine for the street application.

With high RPM seen in track or racing applications, a vac pump is then needed, or at least highly desirable.

There are many discussions and comments that do NOT differentiate between street and strip applications, components and methods. I do not consider a vac system necessary for a street car, or that it will be of any benefit.

what about to cut down on oil leaks?

 

[49-blues]

how do you check your oil level on a sealed system?

 

[Nick Micale]

how do you check your oil level on a sealed system?

Since I change oil in the race car every 5 miles, no need to check it!:biggrin:

 

[unix_punk]

I have a ford pump as well on a hobbs switch. I got around the problem of crankcase pressure before the pump kicks on (normal driving) by re-routing the pcv hose to the main plumb of the vac pump. In that line I have a check valve so that vacuum can be pulled from the crankcase just as the pcv does normally but when on boost that check valve closes and the pump kicks on to pull the vacuum. Expensive and complicated as the check valves I used are from kepner and custom made...not cheap. If you go this route you will also need a LARGE check valve after the pump to ensure that no air is pulled back through the pump during normal driving. I am unable to say that the pump does a good job at this point because my turbo blows too much boost past the bearing into the oil drain line pressurizing the crackcase... At idle I see 5 in/hg in the crankcase just from the motor pulling 15 at idle. The pump I have is from a 99 cobra or something I got from rockauto. From what I read it is made for 4 minute operating cycles and is supposed to last longer and pull more vacuum than an lt1 pump. Pics are here, the system is currently being modified to add a -12AN check valve after the pump as the -6 I had didn't flow enough. That -12 valve is probably gonna cost me $120-$140...heh. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...224612-elec-crankcase-evac-setup-testing.html