driveshaft shops?
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good question. right now im running 90mph in the 1/8 and getting 1.60 sixty. snaped the axel
but the drive shaft held. 
TURBOELKY
Well-Known Member
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I went to Inland Empire Driveline Service, Inc. - Driveshafts, Pinion and Transmission Yokes, Center Support Bearings 2 months ago to have my shaft rebuilt. They did a great job, and build some SERIOUS drive shafts there!! check em out. very reasonable in pricing, and same day service.
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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Go to Driveline Service on Morena Blvd. Tim Foor runs the place, he's been doing driveshafts for ever and really knows his stuff. FWIW, I run a stock driveshaft and have gone 6.47 @ 108.5 with it. I also have 60 ft times in the 1.40 range and the worst thing I've had happen is I twisted the splines in the yoke once.
Neal
Neal
Thanks Neal! I found a place recommend by DRW here in El Cajon. The guy says that to stay away form Chrome Moly drive shafts as the may crack and are unnecessary. He said all I really need is strong u joints and maybe the yolk. But I heard so may bad stories from people who broke their drive shaft and killed the trans, exhuast etc. so I figure better safe than sorry. but the driveshaft guy sad Don from DRW uses stock driveshaft with Spicer u joints and hardened yolk. so you recommend this? car will only run high to mid 11's for with maybe 1.5-1.7 60's
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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Transbrake launches can be really hard on drivetrain parts so I agree that you should install the best u-joints you can find. The yolk is up to you. I just replace them every so often. It's pretty easy to know when the splines are twisted as the driveshaft doesn't want to slide back into the trans when you go to remove it. As far a breaking stock driveshafts go I've seen as many aftermarket aluminum ones break. Proper pinion angle and suspension set up goes a long way toward not twisting the stock driveshaft into a pretzel.
Neal
Neal
Underboost
Mr. Dull
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750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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I thought stock cranks were good for 9's. :biggrin: Shows what I know.
Neal
Neal
My crank broke in half before my drive shaft did. 10.80's 20psi tbrake launches.
Underboost
Mr. Dull
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I thought stock unopened 109 blocks where good for mid 9's with the right stall, and turbo. :biggrin:
750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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Well, I twisted and broke into pieces my stock driveshaft doing a burnout at Qualcomm. U-joints held up fine. 
Wouldn't have been a big deal except for the serious damage to the transmission - which Don graciously rebuilt for me. But the wife wasn't too pleased with the extra expense.
Upgrade now.
Wouldn't have been a big deal except for the serious damage to the transmission - which Don graciously rebuilt for me. But the wife wasn't too pleased with the extra expense.
Upgrade now.
What times where you running? And what 60' times? off the trans brake I would assume? Has anyone heard of a Eaton Posi unit not holding up when using a trans brake? Is this commn because I also have to upgrade my open diff and stock axles. thinkng of going with eaton posi, 30 spline moser and c-clip elimns from strange...... any input?
Underboost
Mr. Dull
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750H.P.V6
Brutal 6 Racing
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I run a stock 8.5 rear end with 3.42 gears, stock posi, welded axle tubes, c-clip eliminators and 28 spline Moser axles.
Reginald West
Senior Member
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- May 25, 2001
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No doubt that Neal has done some great things with stock parts. But all of us are not so lucky.I left my trans,drive shaft and exhaust system on the starting line in las Vegas a few years back so I am a beliver in upgrading. However I agree that with Neal proper pinion angle and suspension set up goes a long way toward not twisting any driveshaft into a pretzel.
REG
REG
I don't believe Todd remembers the driveshaft he built for me very well. It's 3.5" diameter x .083" wall thickness DOM steel, 1350 U-joints and a spicer T-400 yoke. I gave him the specification for the diameter. It puts the critical speed for the driveshaft at 8,566 rpm. I went overkill for sure. I don't want any drastic body work being done to my undercarriage.
The WE4 has my old shaft he made for me. I believe the diameter was at least 3" DOM steel with a Mark Williams yoke and 1350 joints.
A sticking yoke spline can take out a rear unit thrust washer or worse, a needle thrust bearing in the transmission. The thrust washers and needle bearings weren't designed to take forward pounding of the output shaft. Not to mention the load on other thrust washers and needle thrust bearings from the rearward pull of the output shaft from the sticking spline. Get a good yoke. It's not worth it.
If you have the option to go 30 on the axle splines, do it and be done with it.
Todd's recommendation is correct for a power level like yours and someone that doesn't take it to the track often. That's the type upgrade we try to do to all TRs. Since you're a hard core, true blue racer, and you're using a transbrake, I would go with a larger 3" diameter tube to play it safe. Thinking of Madd Mac's experience.
The WE4 has my old shaft he made for me. I believe the diameter was at least 3" DOM steel with a Mark Williams yoke and 1350 joints.
A sticking yoke spline can take out a rear unit thrust washer or worse, a needle thrust bearing in the transmission. The thrust washers and needle bearings weren't designed to take forward pounding of the output shaft. Not to mention the load on other thrust washers and needle thrust bearings from the rearward pull of the output shaft from the sticking spline. Get a good yoke. It's not worth it.
If you have the option to go 30 on the axle splines, do it and be done with it.
Todd's recommendation is correct for a power level like yours and someone that doesn't take it to the track often. That's the type upgrade we try to do to all TRs. Since you're a hard core, true blue racer, and you're using a transbrake, I would go with a larger 3" diameter tube to play it safe. Thinking of Madd Mac's experience.
I just pulled the driveshaft out right now so I could take it to the driveshaft guys tomorrow...... but that driveshft looks pretty beat up. Its got rust everywhere and I dont think it could take anymore. So you guys recommend going with a 3 " with t-400 yolk and spicer u joints right? hopefully its not to much!
You''ll have to use a 200 style yoke since you're not running a turbo 400 trans. Use solid cross spicer joints and go with 3" on the tubing diameter. If you don't want to have a problem with splines, get a Mark Williams yoke. There might be other yokes in the market that are stronger than the stock yoke, but I have no experience with them. I just know you won't have a problem with a Mark Williams. It's a very nice piece, but the yoke alone is pricey.
Also, when you get your driveshaft back, polish the yoke with wet and dry 400 with a little solvent or water on it, and then follow up with wet and dry 600 grit sand paper wetted. Even a brand new yoke will come not well polished. When you drag your finger nail down the yoke, it should be as smooth as a crankshaft journal. If it isn't, the yoke bushing and rear seal will wear abnormally quick.
