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Dusty at SGMP Oct-10

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John Wilde

I'm getting too old for this $#!%
Staff member
Joined
May 27, 2001
Messages
10,866
Guys and Guys,

Dusty went out to run in the Outlaw Radial class.
He is working out the bugs of his new BBC combination.
To my knowledge his best pass of the weekend was
5.086 @ 149.6

This is the fun part, he could not turn up the power anymore
because when the boost ramped in the power twisted the chassis
and lifted the left tire (only) off the ground. I bet Dusty puts some
additional bars under the car over the off season. It will probably
need a 25.5 or 25.3 set up to help harness all that power.

Attached are a couple shots from Chevell Rob's coverage.
 

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Nice shots and way to go Dusty:cool:

Thanks John!
 
John. thanks for sharing. It looks as if in the second picture the rear quarter panel is crinkled a bit:eek:
 
Dusty's car was on a mission in round 1 versus Dave Hance.
Unfortunately it blew a silicone hose around 1/2 track...
 
I am trying to get you guys some video of Dusty's new combination.
It has been like pulling teeth though.

Maybe Aleks has some?
 
Ha John. I need to get a camcorder that makes it easy to get video from disc to the net.

We had a long weekend. I didn't change anything from the last outing when the car went 4.96. The track was great in the shade and tricky in the sun. On it's 1st pass it went into a nasty double wheelstand. It came down soft after the 1st wheelie but the 2nd came up fast and quick so it came down pretty hard. Something moved and the car went hard right on the next two passes. From the looks of it the anti-roll bar got tweaked. We compensated for that and 4th pass was another wheelie. The car now had an extra 40# bolted on the nose. We were now into qualifying and still had not got a handle on bringing the power in like I needed without shaking the tires. I never made a full pass in 8 attempts. Best was the 5.08 pass and I peddled for tire shake and also had to lift to bring the car back into the groove. When the boost came in down track it lifted the left front tire and pulled me out of the groove.

It ran 153mph on 21#. It made 28# and was going straight against Hance when it blew a coupler off under the hood. Hance mph showed 186 which was a fluke. He went 4.83. We may be done for the year depending on the weather conditions. I'm sure the car would go 4.80's as it sits but it's definately in need of something more than your standard 6 point cage. I'd like to test a couple more times if weather holds on for another month.

The class was VERY fast. With 60 of the fastest 10" tire cars on the property. Several were outlaw 10.5 cars that went to the 29.5 and removed the wheelie bars. I think Hance ran 4.64 and barely made the top 20.
 
fast

I wondered for a while who is crazy fast and now I know - congrats Dusty .
 
Nice work Dusty. Keep chipping away at. When you go to upgrade the Cert. look into the 25.3. I dont know if your aware that they modified the rule where less floor bars are required compared to the 25.5 for a factory framed vehicle. You'll actually Cert. to a faster ET than the 25.5's 7.50 with out all the extra bars. Strange as it sounds but John B. made me aware of it.
 
On it's 1st pass it went into a nasty double wheelstand. It came down soft after the 1st wheelie but the 2nd came up fast and quick so it came down pretty hard. We compensated for that and 4th pass was another wheelie. The car now had an extra 40# bolted on the nose.

Thats why I questioned you about putting the intercooler in the back seat when you were building this setup, I was pretty sure you would need the weight back in the front of the car. On my car , the more weight I put in the nose the faster it 60's. May be the same with yours as long as you can hook it up.

Anyway Im proud of you accomplishments to get to this level!! And I know your gears are constantaly turning on improvements. Mike:cool:
 
Thats why I questioned you about putting the intercooler in the back seat when you were building this setup, I was pretty sure you would need the weight back in the front of the car. On my car , the more weight I put in the nose the faster it 60's. May be the same with yours as long as you can hook it up.

Anyway Im proud of you accomplishments to get to this level!! And I know your gears are constantaly turning on improvements. Mike:cool:

The car scaled out at 54/46 as it sat without the weight. You would think it wouldn't want to stand up. Looks like I need to work on the instant center a little more. I moved it out a lot but I'll probably need to test a lower ride height to get the ic lower with the stock mounting points.

Plenty of changes coming. Getting a handle on the 94mm was pretty easy. The power this motor makes with the 114mm will take much testing to get right.

On the list.

Ride height to get the ic lower
30 inch tire.......the car works well on the 28 but it's much easier to get on top of the 28" tire and more prone to wheelstands
gear ratio
Converters.......probably time to move on to the 10.5". I wanted to test the 9.5 since it's what most of my testing has been with and it spools so easy. It's coupling the power well but the issue is the flash rpm. It flashes to high initially and this makes the car want to spin with the quick rpm rise....My rpm is higher than it was when the car went 1.23-1.25 60's but the best is only 1.28. This tells me the torque this engine is making is pushing through the converter down low without powering the car forward. The 9.5 is a great small engine turbo converter but probably isn't big enough for a big block.
 
Nice work Dusty. Keep chipping away at. When you go to upgrade the Cert. look into the 25.3. I dont know if your aware that they modified the rule where less floor bars are required compared to the 25.5 for a factory framed vehicle. You'll actually Cert. to a faster ET than the 25.5's 7.50 with out all the extra bars. Strange as it sounds but John B. made me aware of it.

I'm looking into the 25.3. I know the floor bars aren't required but they may be necessary to help with chassis twist.
 
I believe that I see your thinking. By putting on the bigger tires you will raise the all the bracket points on the rearend and by lowering the front end of the car you will basically rotate the cl points down , thus lowering your intersect points and the instant center of the car. I agree that could make a big difference. Weather or not it will be enough for the additional power output of the bigger turbo will only be known with testing. Thanks again for sharing your experiences on this project as it evolves with the rest of us to pounder. This is great info!! Mike:cool:
 
I believe that I see your thinking. By putting on the bigger tires you will raise the all the bracket points on the rearend and by lowering the front end of the car you will basically rotate the cl points down , thus lowering your intersect points and the instant center of the car. I agree that could make a big difference. Weather or not it will be enough for the additional power output of the bigger turbo will only be known with testing. Thanks again for sharing your experiences on this project as it evolves with the rest of us to pounder. This is great info!! Mike:cool:

Lowering the rear also lowers the instant center by flattening out the lower bar. You just have to be careful as the uppers are much shorter so you can move the ic back too much if your not careful. This is why the moser fab 9's cause an issue. The mount point on the housing for the uppers is way too high.
 
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