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Duttweiler style cam thrust retainer

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KendallF

Blah blah blah
Joined
May 23, 2001
Messages
1,238
I've made my first shot at a jig to allow drilling your block for the Duttweiler style roller cam thrust retainer. It requires drilling 3 holes on the front face of the block around the cam and machining the cam to fit. Once this is done, you just bolt it on...no shims, no button riding on the inside of the front cover. I like the simplicity.

Here are a couple of pics of the jig. I've got to order drill bushings, verify that it's accurate and do my block; then I will make a couple of these. You can buy the retainer plates from Duttweiler and most cam manufacturers should be able to deliver the cam with the nose already machined as an option. I'll try to take pics of the nose machining and provide specs for anyone who's interested.

jig with cam journal mandrel

retainer plate and screws
 
Hi Kendall! I have that thurst plate on the stage motor that I've been talking about Its a good idea. I think you will be pleased.
Question! Do I have to run a bronze cam sensor gear on that motor since it has what I believe to be a cast dist. drive gear?
 
Originally posted by turbolou
Hi Kendall! I have that thurst plate on the stage motor that I've been talking about Its a good idea. I think you will be pleased.
Question! Do I have to run a bronze cam sensor gear on that motor since it has what I believe to be a cast dist. drive gear?

Nope. I think that only goes for the Chevy billet cams with the integral drive gears. You can run a regular gear on the cam sensor.
 
Originally posted by Bad as L
The retainer plate is a DannyBee part. Dut hasn't sold them in a while. Dale
Yes, Danny Bee makes 'em. Ken does have them and I bought one from him a couple of weeks ago.
 
Thats cool, the last time I tried to get one from them, they sent me to Danny Bee. But that was last summer.
Dale
 
Wow! That jig looks a whole lot safer than the way Neal and I did his: I held the retainer real steady, and he marked the three holes with a centerpunch and went after the block with a hand drill! ;)

Morgan
 
Looks good Kendall!

Kenny tells me the tricky part is tapping the treads. It's real easy to break off the tap in the block:(
 
kendall---link doesnt work anymore. can you send a photo? did you make any to sell? would really like to see the jig. thanks--len

lentranz@aol.com
 
I was having trouble accessing one user account block in the freebie space that my ISP gives me, so I took some stuff down. I have room now, so I'll put the pictures back up tonight, if I remember. :)

I didn't make any to sell, but the jig's fairly simple, and you don't have to have a jig really to do just one block. I can post the critical dimensions, once again if I remember... :rolleyes:
 
The pics are back up..the original links in my first post above work. The pics I took at Duttweiler's several months ago also show his original jig and the nose of a cam cut for this setup.

http://home.comcast.net/~fredericksk/misc/duttweiler.htm

Here are my notes from making the jig, complete with oil stains..not much help. :D I have all of the dimensions in Mastercam (CAD/CAM program that was used to create the CNC) but I'll have to get them some other time
 
You mean to tell me that Ford motor made 820HP with the exhaust energy from the left side header bank blowing away from the turbine? :confused:

How does it turn 180* and still operate efficiently?
 
Originally posted by Scott231
You mean to tell me that Ford motor made 820HP with the exhaust energy from the left side header bank blowing away from the turbine? :confused:

How does it turn 180* and still operate efficiently?

It didn't operate very efficiently. ;) The part I didn't mention was how it had so much backpressure that Ken had to hook up 50 psi of shop air to the top of the wastegate before it would make more than 13 psi of boost. :eek: It would blow the wastegate open with backpressure. I have no idea whose headers those were, but they were ugly. That was an Innovative 80 turbo on it; I think a better set of headers would've made a huge difference.

A friend of mine locally did a single turbo setup on a 94 Cobra using flipped shorty headers; the turbo is on the passenger side and has loads of room. He was able to turn the outlet from the passenger side header up and point it at the turbo where it joins with the driver's side pipe. Here's a pic: 347 turbo Cobra. This motor made roughly 500 hp and 500 ft-lbs at the rear wheels on less than 10 psi boost.. :cool:
 
Dale (Bad as L) has some really good experience, machine skills and insights with that retainer plate setup and the resulting cam stackup. I'm very glad we went with it on my own mill vs bumping the front cover.

TurboTR
 
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