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Electronic Climate Control?

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Pittsburghkid

Displacement Replacement.
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
1,774
I have an 84 ttype with the standard slide arm climate control and was wondering other than the electronic in dash controls use would use to adjust the heat, ac, fan speed, etc. what other pieces would i need to make the conversion to the electronic climate control and how would it be done?
 
I would never switch the the ETCC. They are not reliable. Parts are not made anymore. I wish my car had manual controls.
 
I have an 84 ttype with the standard slide arm climate control and was wondering other than the electronic in dash controls use would use to adjust the heat, ac, fan speed, etc. what other pieces would i need to make the conversion to the electronic climate control and how would it be done?

its not hard to change------i've done alot of them-----one or two simple tricks makes them very reliable------few people understand them and thats why they have so much trouble with them-------i even put one of them in my GNX over 15 years ago and its still perfect-------you need the controller of course-----a new wiring harness that runs under the dash to the engine compartment------an electronic programmer(ie a box full of solenoids)-------a motorized servo actuator for the temp door------an electronic speed control for the blower motor and a few odds and ends...............RC
 
+1 on what Richard added.

I love my C68 on my 86GN. And most of the Rivieras I owned had it too. Nowadays just about all the really nice cars and trucks have some type of Climate Control. And the 82-86 vintage Regals were the only G-Bodies to have that option. I kind of like to think Buick was ahead of the times by offering that option in our cars. Just like they were ahead of the times by being the first to offer Port Fuel Injection and DIS. No comment about the Powermaster though.:rolleyes:
 
You guys seem to like them. Can you point me to a TS chart or something so I can get mine working and maybe enjoy it. I have both temp and selector light flashing. The speed light is the only one that does not flash.
 
You guys seem to like them. Can you point me to a TS chart or something so I can get mine working and maybe enjoy it. I have both temp and selector light flashing. The speed light is the only one that does not flash.

i'll be glad to help you-----first can you confirm that your control head is correct for your car-------is it the original unit????-------your symptom sounds like you may not have the correct unit for a G body
 
pretty sure it belongs in there. I have already replaced the head unit with a supposed to be good one, and replaced the solenoid module with a supposed to good one. A buddy of mine faxed me a troubleshooting chart. Maybe that will help me out. It will be a few days till I have time to work with the car again.
 
pretty sure it belongs in there. I have already replaced the head unit with a supposed to be good one, and replaced the solenoid module with a supposed to good one. A buddy of mine faxed me a troubleshooting chart. Maybe that will help me out. It will be a few days till I have time to work with the car again.

what do you mean "pretty sure"???------------heres a start------somewhere on the top or back of the box is a blue ink stamped letter and number-------its about 3/8 inch tall----------if it doesn't say G3620 it is not gonna work----------if the code starts with an E or B or anything else it isn't from a g-body car and you are out of luck................RC
 
its not hard to change------i've done alot of them-----one or two simple tricks makes them very reliable------few people understand them and thats why they have so much trouble with them-------i even put one of them in my GNX over 15 years ago and its still perfect-------you need the controller of course-----a new wiring harness that runs under the dash to the engine compartment------an electronic programmer(ie a box full of solenoids)-------a motorized servo actuator for the temp door------an electronic speed control for the blower motor and a few odds and ends...............RC

Well, I am learning WAY more about the C68 than I ever cared to know trying to figure out WTF is wrong with mine. I have swapped out most parts at this point and purchased and installed Caspers AC/Blower motor control module. I've swapped Control units (with a known good 3620) and door actuator with no luck.

Right now I would like to know where the G107 ground is located? The manual says its Below RH side of IP, near shroud. Page 8A-62-3 of the service manual.

I tried following the diagnostics on the ground the C1 pins to activate the solenoid to test the door and it does nothing. When the key is on the blower will just run on high and the control module LEDs dont light up and the control unit doesn't do anything. Has to be a wiring issue and likely a ground. I traced all the power connections and have pwr going in and coming out of the C1 connector. C3 has constant 12 v and the Purple wire in C2 going to the blower motor control module has 12v. Grey dash lights wire in C3 has 12v with lights on.

ANY help would be appreciated this is driving me nuts. It was working BTW and worked just fine. I was messing with the GEN 7 wiring and the rewired a few things but didn't mess with the factory wiring. I went to remove a wire I had run to the fuse panel and had to tug it free. I am thinking I knocked something loose but I cant find anything.
 
You guys seem to like them. Can you point me to a TS chart or something so I can get mine working and maybe enjoy it. I have both temp and selector light flashing. The speed light is the only one that does not flash.

Last time I saw that symptom, my blend door motor had crapped out.
 
Thanks Dave,
I did swap that out already. I found the ground wire though. The G107 ground is the dash ground wire that is on one of the 10mm bolts. At least that is where it is now, lol. I guess I inadvertently disconnected it to ground the DFI case and forgot to reconnect the ground wire for the heater. I just happened to find it under the dash when I went ripping it apart.
 
what do you mean "pretty sure"???------------heres a start------somewhere on the top or back of the box is a blue ink stamped letter and number-------its about 3/8 inch tall----------if it doesn't say G3620 it is not gonna work----------if the code starts with an E or B or anything else it isn't from a g-body car and you are out of luck................RC
How about this for digging up an old thread. My box has a E3474 on it, sounds like it is not gonna work.
 
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