Thanks for the info Rob, I was reading about that earlier and finally got up to speed on all of this spark plug technical data. It seems that the theory of the plugs causing my original problem is blown out of the water now. Back to the drawing board...I will have the new head gaskets tomorrow and I will have it back together some time tomorrow or Saturday. My only concern now is if I have the same problem again I don't know what to do since I don't want to run around testing it again and blow another head gasket!
Engine Cuts out and stumbles under boost...HELP PLEASE! `
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Thanks for the info Rob, I was reading about that earlier and finally got up to speed on all of this spark plug technical data. It seems that the theory of the plugs causing my original problem is blown out of the water now. Back to the drawing board...I will have the new head gaskets tomorrow and I will have it back together some time tomorrow or Saturday. My only concern now is if I have the same problem again I don't know what to do since I don't want to run around testing it again and blow another head gasket!
captrob
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https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=10044
I stand slightly corrected. The R part numbers are from the race product line.
I should have made it more specific that I was speaking about the regular plugs mentioned early in the thread...BCR8ES(5430) and TR6(4177).
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captrob
Slow GN Fizz!
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Make sure the power logger is seated securely and the ecu ribbon that it slides on is good and clean. I have heard a few instances where the power logger was loose fitting and cause weird intermittent issues. Also make sure ecu wire harness connectors and orange power wire are in good condition.
It certainly seems like it is an electrical "glitch" that is causing erratic things to happen.
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It certainly seems like it is an electrical "glitch" that is causing erratic things to happen.
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I will double check those items for sure, I agree that it seems like an electrical issue which is why I was so fired up about the plug theory. I guess I should have gone out to the shop and pulled a plug and looked it up rather than assuming these were not resistor plugs. I wasted a lot of peoples time chasing that one down...sorry guys!
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Question for you sir,
I may have missed it, but what gap would you recommend setting the BCR8ES plug at if running 20-22lbs of boost on the street, 24-25 at the drag strip?
I have never run this plug.
Thank you.
Ultimately,your ignition system will determine this. I was able to run 28 lbs with my 235"/7.9/1 engine before I could feel the fire start to blow out with the plugs gaped at .035". My 273"/9.3/1 engine is currently at 21 lbs with .035" gaps. It runs very strong. See how far you can go at .035" and tighten as needed.
I was planning to gap .035" as well...I would assume that is the recommendation for my build as well.
The object is to run as big as you can get away with. As the pressure rises in the combustion chamber,it becomes more and more difficult for the electrical energy to jump the gap. At some point you will need to tighten the gap. You'll find out where that is. Yes,you should start at .035"
achalmersman
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Since plugs are resistor what kind of wires are in use and have you tried a different set?
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I cant remember the name of the wires but they are the fat ones that one of the vendors on the board builds. No, I haven't tried another set yet.
ttypewhite
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Now that the intake is off the car, you should start checking key components on the motor. Ie:
-Your injectors (get them Flow tested)
-Injector harness (examine it for kinks or breaks in the wires)
- pin outs in the ignition module connector
- harness on the driver side (make sure nothing touched the header, very common in that spot near the alternator
- change your fuel filter
- try new fuel
- check your tps settings
- check the wires to the mass air
- make sure the connections at the back of the alternator are good
- It would be a good idea to verify your timing once the car is running with a timing gun.
- make sure that the wires going to the crank sensor didn't get pinched. There is a tight spot in between the pwr steering pump and the front cover that a lot of people try to tuck the wires to avoid coming in contact with the pullies or belt.
- check all connectors on the engine for any Bent pins or damaged /corroded wire
- check your connections at the battery
- check your fuseable links near the battery and the starter.
-Your injectors (get them Flow tested)
-Injector harness (examine it for kinks or breaks in the wires)
- pin outs in the ignition module connector
- harness on the driver side (make sure nothing touched the header, very common in that spot near the alternator
- change your fuel filter
- try new fuel
- check your tps settings
- check the wires to the mass air
- make sure the connections at the back of the alternator are good
- It would be a good idea to verify your timing once the car is running with a timing gun.
- make sure that the wires going to the crank sensor didn't get pinched. There is a tight spot in between the pwr steering pump and the front cover that a lot of people try to tuck the wires to avoid coming in contact with the pullies or belt.
- check all connectors on the engine for any Bent pins or damaged /corroded wire
- check your connections at the battery
- check your fuseable links near the battery and the starter.
I will check all of that today, I should have the head gaskets in before 10:00 this morning so I will be able to put it back together today. I am really considering putting this car on a FAST system to get rid of all of these damn glitches once and for all. 30 year old electronics are an absolute nightmare! I don't why I have had so much trouble with this car. It just goes to show you that you can't throw money at a problem and make it go away! I have well over $40k in this thing now!
Need to find out the real problem,may not be the wiring.seen a lot of things go wrong with cars in general.
No, I haven't done that...I thought the timing was best adjusted by the chip? The translator is just plugged in at the stock MAF sensor plug. There is another plug coming off of the Translator that I have no idea what it does...it isn't plugged into anything.
That other plug is used if you want to tap into the timing wire. Since you're not using it,it shouldn't be your problem.
I finally got it back together and got some logs...unfortunately it is still doing the same thing. I am now running the BCR8ES plugs as well and as we expected it didn't solve my problem however as a reminder I was running the TR6 plugs which is a resistor plug. It pulls hard and then just falls flat on its face...I am proof that you can't throw money at a problem and expect results.
achalmersman
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What wideband, fuel pressure transducer, maf settings etc so we know how to configure our PL? Am I seeing this right that the coolant sensor is reading 112 degrees and you have a stored code for it?
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