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Engine Cuts out and stumbles under boost...HELP PLEASE! `

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Eric, TR6 plugs are what was in it when I had this problem...they are solid core plugs right?
Do they have a tapered seat or flat washer?
Are the ground straps cut back?
Are the electrodes recessed?
What numbers are stamped on the metal body?
 
Im not one to argue with Eric because he knows his stuff. But Jegs I believe is wrong. Everywhere else including NGKs website shows the TR6 as being a copper core plug.

One thing is for sure. Its a projected tip plug.

T-type 6 brings up another point. TR6 is a tapered seat and not a gasket / washer

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Im not one to argue with Eric because he knows his stuff. But Jegs I believe is wrong. Everywhere else including NGKs website shows the TR6 as being a copper core plug.

One thing is for sure. Its a projected tip plug.

T-type 6 brings up another point. TR6 is a tapered seat and not a gasket / washer

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.

Ok, then there is still hope!!!
 
Do they have a tapered seat or flat washer?
Are the ground straps cut back?
Are the electrodes recessed?
What numbers are stamped on the metal body?[/QUOT

They are not a flat washer plug
I am not sure if the electrodes are recessed as I don't know what to look for there? (I posted pictures of them earlier in the thread though, perhaps you can teach me something there)
The numbers stamped on the metal body are K46V and below that it just says TR6 Japan
 

Learn something new every day...no, they are not a recessed plug. I searched NGK TR6 resistor and several sites say they are copper core and several say they are resistor plugs. Strangely enough the AutoZone site says they are a solid core and they are a resistor plug. I am still convinced that I want to try the BCR8ES plug anyway just due to the experience you and others have had with them...plus I have ordered 18 of them now so I am sort of committed now! You convinced me!
 
Well idk. NGKs website contradicts itself. In one spot it says copper core, in another spot it says 5k ohms. I hope they are solid core otherwise your back to theorizing. Measure the core with a multimeter. Ive never done it but i would think you can

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
 
Learn something new every day...no, they are not a recessed plug. I searched NGK TR6 resistor and several sites say they are copper core and several say they are resistor plugs. Strangely enough the AutoZone site says they are a solid core and they are a resistor plug. I am still convinced that I want to try the BCR8ES plug anyway just due to the experience you and others have had with them...plus I have ordered 18 of them now so I am sort of committed now! You convinced me!
You never confirmed the spark plug number.= incomplete information
Eric comes along and says'Hey,you can use these" They are resistors but he doesn't tell us they are tapered,projected,and have a non cut ground strap.= incomplete information.
Nick preaches cut ground straps and non projected tips and gives you these plugs=I'm sick of prying the truth,the whole truth,and nothing but the truth out of people.
 
Well idk. NGKs website contradicts itself. In one spot it says copper core, in another spot it says 5k ohms. I hope they are solid core otherwise your back to theorizing. Measure the core with a multimeter. Ive never done it but i would think you can

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
I just did a resistor and a non resistor. If it has 5K ohms resistance,it's a resistor plug.
 
Just got back from ripping the siding off of my garage. I feel pretty calm now.
It's not the spark plugs,but you still want to use the BCR8ES plugs for their recessed tips,flat seat,and cut ground strap.
The next thing I would check is the cam sensor when you get the engine running.
Confirm that you still have the problem.
If you do,disconnect the cam sensor after starting the engine then take it for a test drive.
The reason I suspect this is because of the sensitivity to rapid change in RPM.
 
You never confirmed the spark plug number.= incomplete information
Eric comes along and says'Hey,you can use these" They are resistors but he doesn't tell us they are tapered,projected,and have a non cut ground strap.= incomplete information.
Nick preaches cut ground straps and non projected tips and gives you these plugs=I'm sick of prying the truth,the whole truth,and nothing but the truth out of people.

yeah I posted it before but it was hidden in your quote...my bad.

They are not a flat washer plug
I am not sure if the electrodes are recessed as I don't know what to look for there? (I posted pictures of them earlier in the thread though, perhaps you can teach me something there)
The numbers stamped on the metal body are K46V and below that it just says TR6 Japan

As far as the "whole truth and nothing but the truth" I had no idea that the TR6 plug was or is a resistor plug and I am still not convinced since it says several different things on several different websites.
 
TR5 or 6 is copper and it is definitely a resistor plug. They are tapered seat, which is ok with GN1 alum heads (unless something has changed with their heads). They are projected, which is what I prefer. But everyone is going to have their opinion.
 
0 or OL? Sorry if that seems like an insulting question but I dont know everybody's experience when I'm helping them.

If OL somethings wrong with your test. Scratch into the fouling on the core

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
 
TR5 or 6 is copper and it is definitely a resistor plug. They are tapered seat, which is ok with GN1 alum heads (unless something has changed with their heads). They are projected, which is what I prefer. But everyone is going to have their opinion.
0 or OL? Sorry if that seems like an insulting question but I dont know everybody's experience when I'm helping them.

If OL somethings wrong with your test. Scratch into the fouling on the core

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.


At first I had 0L however I realized that I had it on the wrong scale on my multimeter. It measured out at 4,300 once I got it set right. So now I guess I am back to guessing what caused the original problem. Damn, I was excited!
 
Too many terms being thrown around. I have never heard of a solid core spark plug. Solid TIP spark plugs...yes. Solid core spark plug WIRES...yes. Copper core spark plugs...yes. NGKs description of these plugs is...Copper core with or without resistor. The "R" in the id is resistor. Hope this helps with a little of our confusion. I linked NGK's id chart earlier in this thread...it gives all the info needed. Tapered/flat seat, projected/non projected, hex size, thread, reach, temp, etc.
Read the description of resistor plugs on the spark plugs dot com link earlier and it describes why a street car should not run non-resistor plugs. Yes...TR6's have a resistor.
Rob


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I appologize I have been using the term solid core even though the term was non-resistor. I stand corrected. I guess I just started saying it because to me if there's not a resistor, its a solid core electrically lol

No trees were harmed in the sending of this message, however, a significant number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
 
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