Engine heating up with dual fans and XFI help?

[Royal-T-Ltd]

Here's a thought....how about a real radiator box in kit . Bet this will re-direct a bunch of air directly to your radiator & should reduce engine temperatures substantially

Cooling-g-body | gns-performance-

www.gnsperformance.com

View attachment 343686

GNS Radiator Box in Kit #20100GNS

This kit was designed to replace those flimsy factory rubber pieces around the radiator.
This kit will divert 100% of the air that travels through the grill to be forced through the radiator resulting in 10-15 deg cooler temps. Our kit is made out of 1/16" aluminum sheet that comes factory coated in a satin black.
* Very minor notching is required external coolers or intercoolers.
$109.00

Thats not gonna work with a lot of FMIC... definitely not RJCs or Cottons.... he will have to fab something up to do it right


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Turbo6inKY]

What kind of water pump are you using?

I had problems with low speed (engine speed) temperature creep until I installed a Flowkooler pump. The stock pump didn't move enough water around at cruise to keep the water temp where I wanted it. I could floor it and watch the temps come down. With a front mount in the way, the issue is compounded.

FlowKooler Hi Flow Water Pumps

FlowKooler pumps patented impeller designs help stop engines from overheating and reduces engine temperature up to 30 degrees by doubling the flow of coolant and building system pressure.

www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com

Is your weatherstrip still present at the base of the windshield? If it's gone, get a new one. that strip is mandatory. It keeps the high pressure zone that forms at the base of the windshield from forcing air into the engine bay and stalling the radiator.

And make sure you don't have something set in your ECM that shuts the fans off above a certain speed. Airflow through the engine bay on these things is terrible. GM didn't really do any work to ensure airflow worked properly at today's highway speeds because they didn't have to. The speed limit back in '87 was still 55.

 

[No disintegrations]

Update on this?

 

[crazyturbo]

Update on this?

Will give update later today. Going to drive the car a bit. 1st thing I did was change out the thermostat.

 

[Jerryl]

Will give update later today. Going to drive the car a bit. 1st thing I did was change out the thermostat.

In rare cases, the impeller can spin on the shaft at higher flow rate. Worth looking into if the issue persist.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

How about answering the ?'s I posed, in post 17...………….

 

[crazyturbo]

The temp on a stat, only indicates the minimum temp it will START to open. Putting a 160* stat in place of a 180, only means the point at which the opening begins, is lowered. In this case, the engine is operating at a temp well above the stat, whether a 160, or 180. A working system should run close to the stat value. { Assuming system is designed to do so.}
A ft air dam, that was intended to direct air to a rear mt i/c does nothing to control air to a f/m. It just raises the turbulence between the back of the rad, and the ft of the engine. Use of a hot air air dam has helped, in some cases.
Other items:
Details on the engine?
Under drive pulleys?
Belt slip due to bad tensioner?
Fans wired backward?
Engine block full of crud?
XFI temp control settings actually working?
AFR lean?
Cruise timing?
Data logging could help there.
Leaky head gasket?
Still running cat converter?
Exh system plugged?

I a running a 1 piece front air dome from TR customs .

Engine block stock recently rebuilt

RJC executive Pulleys

No Belt slipping recently replaced it with a good working tensioner based on the
adjustment mark I see on the tensioner.

No CAT

Clean exhaust

Going to hook up to laptop to get better data.

No wires or fans hooked up incorrect or backwards

 

[No disintegrations]

My favorite theory right now is spark timing at cruise is off by a bit. Retarded timing at cruise can make it run hot. The heat goes into the exhaust port instead of pushing the piston. The head sends the heat into the coolant.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

RJC executive Pulleys

Underdrive?

 

[No disintegrations]

So its fixed or what?

 

[crazyturbo]

Still no luck after changing out thermostat. I did put in a 160. Next I'm pulling the radiator to have it cleaned. Will follow up after thats done.

 

[Turbo6inKY]

Still no luck after changing out thermostat. I did put in a 160. Next I'm pulling the radiator to have it cleaned. Will follow up after thats done.

A 160 thermostat will never solve an overheating problem. If the car's cooling system is up to snuff, it'll be stable at whatever the thermostat value is. If the system can't shed heat faster than it's created, you'll have problems regardless of the thermostat open point.

 

[dank GN]

I would do a leak down test . And see where that leads you I’m sorry to tell you but you might have a head gasket that’s blown and compression and heat is leaking into your cooling system. A leak down will tell you a lot . Good luck and keep us posted

 

[Pronto]

Dank might be right. When you did the thermostat did you shine a flashlight in the radiator? A be cool radiator should be able to handle the heat unless it's really clogged up.

 

[ttypewhite]

Our summer as of late has been hot as balls with no relief in the shade. I noticed that the ol boy's GN was running hot with dual fans (close to 200) and a 4 core rad with no T stat. I ordered the TA Performance water pump. Yesterday I tackled the job. Took me about 2 hours to swap out the stock one for the TA one. Couldn't have picked a better day to do this comparison. Yesterday was hot and humid outside and we took it out in the peak of the heat (100 degrees +) and this car stayed at 170 to 175 even after throwing it a beating. This water pump is fantastic and worth every penny. I never would have believed it if someone would have told me this story. I would call bullshit. Seeing is believing, today I am ordering one for my Buick as well. Give it a shot, you will be shocked to see what a drastic change in temps this makes. See link below.

High Performance Water Pumps, '73-'87 231-252 V6, 350 High Performance Water Pump (Long Body), TA_1536BHP | TAPerformance.com

 

[Jerryl]

Our summer as of late has been hot as balls with no relief in the shade. . . .

Nice

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

Our summer as of late has been hot as balls with no relief in the shade. I noticed that the ol boy's GN was running hot with dual fans (close to 200) and a 4 core rad with no T stat. I ordered the TA Performance water pump. Yesterday I tackled the job. Took me about 2 hours to swap out the stock one for the TA one. Couldn't have picked a better day to do this comparison. Yesterday was hot and humid outside and we took it out in the peak of the heat (100 degrees +) and this car stayed at 170 to 175 even after throwing it a beating. This water pump is fantastic and worth every penny. I never would have believed it if someone would have told me this story. I would call bullshit. Seeing is believing, today I am ordering one for my Buick as well. Give it a shot, you will be shocked to see what a drastic change in temps this makes. See link below.

High Performance Water Pumps, '73-'87 231-252 V6, 350 High Performance Water Pump (Long Body), TA_1536BHP | TAPerformance.com

Mike do you recall the material of the impeller?
thks
aaron

 

[ttypewhite]

Mike do you recall the material of the impeller?
thks
aaron

Sorry, I'm not sure. Didn't pay attention to tell you the truth. Mine will be here this week. I will post pictures of it when I get it.

 

[ttypewhite]

My TA water pump came in. The impeller is the same material as the pump itself.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

My TA water pump came in. The impeller is the same material as the pump itself.
View attachment 345324View attachment 345325View attachment 345326View attachment 345327

Thanks for the pics Mike! i was wondering if it was just a rebranded Flowkooler but i believe the Flowkooler pumps have an anodized aluminum impeller.
-aaron