Establishing Idle

[Tim_D]

Here’s some more data from the car since changing to the new 30lb injectors:

1) The car remains difficult to keep running, and requires throttle “feathering”. When driving it around the block, any throttle application greater than 1/8 to 1/4 makes the car slightly backfire.
2) The “pig rich” exhaust is gone. I can come inside the house after working on it, not reeking of exhaust.
3) The O2 error code (13) is no longer present. No codes are being displayed.
4) IAC counts remain really high (~100).

So it looks like the injectors may have made a change, but did not fully correct the issue.

MAF?

 

[Pronto]

You changed the injectors but not the maf?

 

[Reapersgbodys]

Yes Tim,.
Many have already stated you need to be looking at the MAF sensor, my brother went thru 9 trips to the parts store trying to get one that would work, none did. The only place to get correctly calibrated "stock" MAF is Kirbans, or just bite the bullet and get a translator with new style MAF sensor.

 

[Pronto]

#1 is a sure sign of a maf problem. Yours being it's wrong...

 

[captndave737]

As others have said most likely the MAF. And there's usually no code thrown when they go. Of 3 that failed on me before I got a translator only one threw a code and it was a 45 rich exhaust. MAF problems can present themselves at any load and RPM. Sometimes the car will barely run.

 

[Tim_D]

Well here’s more supporting data (I think) that the MAF is bad.. I unhooked the MAF and the idle became rock-solid.

I have an LT1 MAF and a translator on the way.

 

[Tim_D]

Well, happy to report the issue was indeed the MAF sensor.

Today I received a Delphi LT1-style MAF (3") and a translator. After setting the DIP switches per the instructions and plugging everything in, it fired right up. I got the IAC counts around 25, set the TPS, and I was off and running. What a rush!

Thanks all for the help and insight -