Failed Emissions - CA local advise needed

TTA579

Danger! High Voltage!
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
I was hoping to make TTA579 legal again today, but alas, she failed emissions.

The important numbers are as follows

MPH 15 25
HC
Max 80 62
Meas. 97 69
CO
Max .52 .42
Meas .06 .03
NO
Max 549 507
Meas 64 55


Also failed the EVAP pressure test.

So... she's running rich, and just slightly too much for CA. Everything is stock, fuel pressure is normal. Other than the TT emissions chip, does anyone have any suggestions?

By the way, if you've been following my troubles, I've replaced the injectors with a stock set I picked up here a while back. The car hasn't cooled down yet to see if I still get the start-stall issue.
 
Last time I ran 40% E85 with 87 octane. Dropped my HC's close to 40 ppm from previous smog.
 
Thanks Frank, I'll keep that as plan B. I'd like to know why the car is running so rich in the first place. :)
 
If you haven't replaced the o2 sensor a fresh one might help. If the o2 sensor is fresh your cat might be marginal because it obviously works but not well enough. As far as the evap test goes more than likely your gas cap needs to be replaced.

Neal
 
Looks like the new fuel injectors are leaking worse than the old ones. Time to just order a setup from TT.

O2 sensor and anything else I haven't replaced will be getting replaced soon too.
 
Im no expert but I dont think you are running rich. If you were running rich your CO would be higher. I believe HC is un burned fuel do to missfire of to rich or to lean. What I would do is get that catalic converter real hot (rpm above 2500 for 4 minutes) before you smog it.

On the evap make sure all the hoses going to the tank are not all dried up if any craks replace. Check your gas cap look at the seal for any cracks.
 
I'd been running the car around for an hour or two before I got it to the smog station. I may have to have the CAT replaced. Anyone know any exhaust places who ask fewer questions? I might as well have a wideband bung welded in at the same time.
 
Helps to get a smog chip burned and turn the fuel pressure down a few psi too...just don't play while you have the tune and fuel all turned down.
 
Scott,

The o2 sensor is the cheapest thing to try. Keep in mind it gives the feedback to the computer as to what the A/F ratio is. If it's been in service for a while or has been subjected to race gas or fuel additives it's not on par. For $40 it might just give you what you need. Beyond that you need to look at the catalytic convertor. I don't think it's a misfire as the HC's would be much higher.

Neal
 
The gas cap test is separate from the evap test, if he didn't fail the cap then you have a leak somewhere.

3rd gens are notorious for the filler neck breaking away from where it attaches to the tank. You have to remove the 3rd member to remove the tank.

The first place to check is where they clamp the hose near the charcoal canister for cracks/broken.

Since you are in Inglewood, try having this guy test it, he won't cheat but will work with you on legally fixing it to pass. Morgan Rush Grandview Garage Culver city 424-200-1486 he's a fellow 3rd gen owner.
 
I was hoping to make TTA579 legal again today, but alas, she failed emissions.

The important numbers are as follows

MPH 15 25
HC
Max 80 62
Meas. 97 69
CO
Max .52 .42
Meas .06 .03
NO
Max 549 507
Meas 64 55


Also failed the EVAP pressure test.

So... she's running rich, and just slightly too much for CA. Everything is stock, fuel pressure is normal. Other than the TT emissions chip, does anyone have any suggestions?

By the way, if you've been following my troubles, I've replaced the injectors with a stock set I picked up here a while back. The car hasn't cooled down yet to see if I still get the start-stall issue.

What are the CO2 & O2 readings that would give an indication if the cat converter is weak. The nox readings are a also little high. If you have an upgraded cooling system & 160 thermostat that will increase the HC. readings. The car isnt that far out of the ball park. They have tightened up the standards again recently & unless everything is on the money it won't pass. What part of the evap test did it fail. If it was the vacuum part it's most probably the sending unit o-ring especially if the fuel pump has been replaced.
 
What are the CO2 & O2 readings that would give an indication if the cat converter is weak. The nox readings are a also little high. If you have an upgraded cooling system & 160 thermostat that will increase the HC. readings. The car isnt that far out of the ball park. They have tightened up the standards again recently & unless everything is on the money it won't pass. What part of the evap test did it fail. If it was the vacuum part it's most probably the sending unit o-ring especially if the fuel pump has been replaced.

The "new" injectors leak, old ones were clogged. BLM is a little low, 116 or so. No more cold stall issue however.

The catalytic converter is not original, the original 4-bolt flange has been removed and a replacement cat was welded in. I have seen an emissions history for the car that indicates it is probably a stock replacement. It's the last think I'm going to be replacing to resolve this issue if it comes to that.

Cooling system is stock as far as I can tell.

The fuel cap passed, the tank test failed. I have replaced the fuel pump, and I would agree that it is most likely the sender o-ring that is leaking. A new o-ring is cheap. I will check the rubber to the charcoal canister as well. All the under-hood rubber was trash and the EVAP hose is not something I looked at.

Thanks everyone for the help!
 
3rd gens are notorious for the filler neck breaking away from where it attaches to the tank. You have to remove the 3rd member to remove the tank.

I've pulled the tank multiple times, never needed to drop the rear out once.
 
I've pulled the tank multiple times, never needed to drop the rear out once.

I have never done one, knock on wood, just everyone says the rear has to come out, maybe just dropped. I'll find out soon as Chris' vert is leaking at the filler/tank joint.
But since he has replaced the pump he already knows the PITA it is.
 
The "new" injectors leak, old ones were clogged. BLM is a little low, 116 or so. No more cold stall issue however.

The catalytic converter is not original, the original 4-bolt flange has been removed and a replacement cat was welded in. I have seen an emissions history for the car that indicates it is probably a stock replacement. It's the last think I'm going to be replacing to resolve this issue if it comes to that.

Cooling system is stock as far as I can tell.

The fuel cap passed, the tank test failed. I have replaced the fuel pump, and I would agree that it is most likely the sender o-ring that is leaking. A new o-ring is cheap. I will check the rubber to the charcoal canister as well. All the under-hood rubber was trash and the EVAP hose is not something I looked at.

Thanks everyone for the help!

The BLM @ 116 is still within the computers adjustability range so, that is not a problem. The computer is pulling fuel out at 116 but still has room to pull more if necessary. You didn't fail by much looking at your numbers. I would put a fresh catalytic converter on it and that should be enough to get you through the emissions part of it. I bought a new cat for my GN about 13 years ago and it has a total of about 400 miles on it. To and from the emissions check every 2 years! Good luck with it. I always loved the TTA's!!!
 
Be prepared for a big $$ cat. Ca now requires OBII cats with part numbers big enough to read from Uranus.

I guess emissions mods are ok if they require it. F_tards.
 
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