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~JM~

Wrinkled Member
Joined
Oct 31, 2007
Messages
3,251
The sky cleared & I was able to go for a drive. I have my wastegate dialed in to 17#'s of boost and for the most part all is well. I made several full throttle blasts down the freeway. I'm about 50/50 on either no knock at all, or showing 3 to 5 degrees KR. Should I try to pull out a degree of timing through my TT chip, or should I reduce the boost to 16#'s? Other than that it was a great drive!

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~JM~
 
The sky cleared & I was able to go for a drive. I have my wastegate dialed in to 17#'s of boost and for the most part all is well. I made several full throttle blasts down the freeway. I'm about 50/50 on either no knock at all, or showing 3 to 5 degrees KR. Should I try to pull out a degree of timing through my TT chip, or should I reduce the boost to 16#'s? Other than that it was a great drive!

View attachment 155565

~JM~

My 2 cents is any knock is unacceptable. I would reduce boost and timing and evaluate. Brad
 
Is the knock on the shifts? Have you checked for a downpipe hitting? What are your 02's when the knock shows? Like already mentioned. Any knock is bad.
 
Don't know if the knock was during a shift. I tried to stay in the same gear throughout, but it did downshift a time or two. Stock downpipe looks clear. O2's have been in the low to mid 700 range. I think the car is still running lean even though I've adjusted the fueling through the chip as much as possible & have increased the base pressure to 45#'s.

I have yet to experiment with the timing through the chip. I think that I should probably reduce boost one pound to 16#'s.

Thank you
~JM~
 
Yes you are most likely lean. Low 700's Sucks! Invest in Alcohol Injection then crank it up!!
 
if you have 5 degrees of kr taking out only 1 won't do it.drop the boost a little get the car to run clean.
 
~JM~ said:
The sky cleared & I was abl somee to go for a drive. I have my wastegate dialed in to 17#'s of boost and for the most part all is well. I made several full throttle blasts down the freeway. I'm about 50/50 on either no knock at all, or showing 3 to 5 degrees KR. Should I try to pull out a degree of timing through my TT chip, or should I reduce the boost to 16#'s? Other than that it was a great drive!

~JM~

Not sure of your method but when Im making a pull on the highway I try to get to 60mph or so before I go wot so the car doesn't downshift which might cause knock. Were you seeing the knock during the freeway pass or checking the scanmaster afterwards for knock? after you make a pull hold use the scanmaster buttons to see what your O2s were when you had the knock. I think its strange your able to Max the wot fuel in the tt chip and it isn't bringing your O2s up a lot higher than low/mid 700s
 
The car has always read lean even before I changed the IC. I rarely see 780-800.

I saw the knock after I slowed down & hit the recall button. Those are the O2 numbers that I'm quoting.

I'm thinking that my 30# injectors may be to small.

Thanks
~JM~
 
Do you not have the TT Chip yet? Might be time to up to the 60's with a chip combo. It won't hurt to have extra injector at your will. Have you tried adding fuel in the chip?

Nix
 
~JM~ said:
The car has always read lean even before I changed the IC. I rarely see 780-800.

I saw the knock after I slowed down & hit the recall button. Those are the O2 numbers that I'm quoting.

I'm thinking that my 30# injectors may be to small.

Thanks
~JM~

If your only running 30s that would be it, and probably the reason the Max fuel in the chip isn't helping you bc your injectors are pretty much maxed from the start.
 
The injectors is probably it but you also need to train yourself to glance at your scanmaster and boost gauge during a wot run. 5 degrees of real knock is not good. BTW i like your car.
 
The injectors is probably it but you also need to train yourself to glance at your scanmaster and boost gauge during a wot run. 5 degrees of real knock is not good. BTW i like your car.
I was mostly concentrating on where the boost guage settled. This my second run with an adj waste-gate actuater. When I originally installed the adj actuater I matched the lengths to my stock actuater but that had me headed to 20+#'s before I shut it down. Thanks for the comment on my car. It receives comments & thumbs up quite often. I'm afraid that I can't take any credit for its outward appearance as that was how it looked when I bought it. I just try to keep it clean & try to make it faster the correct way.

~JM~
 
Ok, what was your boost at before the front mount was installed? What I am getting at is that you should put it back to the boost you were at without knock and slowly turn it up from there.
 
Ok, what was your boost at before the front mount was installed? What I am getting at is that you should put it back to the boost you were at without knock and slowly turn it up from there.
I didn't have a boost gauge at that time. I installed the FMIC & started having knock. It appears that the FMIC allowed the OEM waste-gate actuater to over boost, which is opposite of what I had expected. I have been turning it down ever since I installed the gauge & adj actuater.

~JM~
 
If it was me I would turn the boost down to 15 and turn it up slowly instead of going high then turning it down. That's a great way to get a new head gasket.
 
If it was me I would turn the boost down to 15 and turn it up slowly instead of going high then turning it down. That's a great way to get a new head gasket.
I have already done that. I know that 16#'s runs clean. Its the 17#'s that is questionable. It didn't register knock about 1/2 of the runs. The original question was if I should try to reduce timing or just drop it back down to 16# and call it good.

~JM~
 
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