Fire Supression Systems

[turbodave231]

Don,

You asked for this thread!! And a great topic for this forum. Here it is.

I've thought about a fire system for the last couple years. My better half even "authorized" the purchase last year (like I need that as an excuse to spend money). but I never got around to buying a system.

Who has a system installed?

What system did you choose? and Why?

Where is it most important to locate the nozzles? Underhood is obvious. How about driver? or fuel cell? How big a bottle is really needed?

Dave

 

[Sam Colalillo]

subscribed:
I am hoping to hear from Cal Hartline, DR. Chris, and other who have a system in their car. I would love to see where the activitaion buttons are placed also.

Aiming toward the driver seems important to me.

 

[Louie L.]

I have a safecraft system in mine. 5 lb halon . I know that its not NHRA legal now but it was 2 years ago when I bought it. I have no plans to change it. I will add a second 5# foam kit for underhood only when the car is ready to go again. So halon inside , foam outside. Install not complete but the pull switch will be located in the center console. I havent finished the install so no pics.

Cal has a firefox 10 lb kit in his. very popular with Mustang guys. All foam. His pull switch was located in the dash were the side view mirror joystick was located.

Over 90% of race car fires start under the hood. Fight it there and not only will you save yourself , you will save the car.

 

[Grumpy]

subscribed

 

[notacarlo]

We use OMP. 4.27 liter aluminum bottles that sit somewhere in the car. triggered by a 9volt battery and a arm/disarm button. They use a newer, safer version of halon. When they shoot off they make a mess...but will smother a fire instantly.

The foam that is discharged is very soapy and will pretty much be a whore to get out of upholstry.

Lines can be routed throughout the engine compartment and fuel area.

They work well. There is a distributor in Wisconsin and are the only authorized dealer in the US that can recharge the tanks.

If you want any more info let me know and I will post up as soon as I can.


Dan

 

[JESUPERCAT]

We use the DJ safety --Cold system 10# or 18# I don't remember at the moment. I can check if important. We are running a 3 nozzle system. 1st nozzle right lower engine(aimed toward damper) 2nd nozzle left upper engine area (aimed across fuel cell and vent) 3rd nozzle driver compartment near my feet aimed at my chest .
This system is installed in a front engine dragster with an alcohol/nitro 8 tube Hilborn injected Buick Nailhead engine.
I was very happy with the ease of install and I really like the Panic button activation:biggrin: .

 

[Alky V6]

I'm running a 10 lbs. Halon bottle with one nozzle on the tunnel next to my right knee, pointing toward my waist/chest area. A pull T handle is mounted just to the right of the driver's seat.

I've been told that I should tee into the one line and run a line into the engine bay and tee that one to provide two nozzles to spray both sides of the engine. I've held off doing it because I'd rather save the whole 10 lbs. for me. I was told that the 10 lbs. would be plenty for me and the engine bay.

Does anyone have any experience lighting one of these off? What was the system configuration and what was the effectiveness?

 

[Nick Micale]

I'm running a 10 lbs. Halon bottle with one nozzle on the tunnel next to my right knee, pointing toward my waist/chest area. A pull T handle is mounted just to the right of the driver's seat.........

I just installed a system like Don described only it is a 3 nozzle system. One on the fuel cel, others on the driver and engine. The hot as hell DP is an ignitor for oil or tranny fluid spraying near it.

Having seen a few "toasted" race cars including GN's. I would certainly have one in the engine compartment, as all the fire ones I know of personally, they have started in the engine compartment.

A recent GN caught on fire at the finish line when a tranny line split. The person that installed the lines when building the car originally also beat up the firewall for clearance, and that "invited" the fire inside the car and toasted it.

When the floor mat pad ignited, as well as all the padding under the dash, the fire took out the entire interior. Driver was fine, but the extinguisher was no help as it did not penetrate the carpet to reach the padding. What a mess.

Actually, today I just removed ALL the under dash padding, as the carpet pad has long since been gone. Sealing ALL the holes in the firewall, repeat ALL, as well as any in the floor pans is also GOOD insurance.

 

[turbodave231]

Nick,

It is interesting that you mentioned the holes in the firewall. I've been interested in salt flat racing for a few years now and have been reading about the rules and requirements. One of the main things they inspect for is firewall integrity. They insist on sealing every hole and having proper grommets on lines and wires that pass through the firewall......after hearing your story, I can see why.

I removed the dash insulation when I built the car, but didn't remove the carpet or padding. I want to keep the original interior look, but I can see it is a deficit when it comes to safety. Eliminating combustibles would be a good move for safety.

 

[notacarlo]

Here's who we use.

Pegasus -AFFF (Foam) Fire Suppression Systems

 

[Sam Colalillo]

This is a great discussion, glad i subscribed. Anyone got pictures?

 

[Turbo Indian]

I went with Cold Fire Cold Fire Super Systems it is non toxic, NHRA approved & semi easy to clean up under the hood. I went with a 2 liter system & put 4 nozzles under the hood, 1 in each corner of the engine bay.

 

[Otto J]

I have one in each front corner of the engine bay,One directly above the trans at the top of the tunnel and one tha faces the driver directly under the steering column in he interior.

 

[mikeb]

I subscribed as soon as I saw the post.
Excellent topic to do a "how-to" and teach the amateurs like myself
the right way.

 

[jevans]

I purchased the Fire Bottle Safety System, It uses FE-36 which is NHRA Approved. I went with the 10lb. bottle and upgraded to 4 Nozzles. I installed 1 nozzle in the trunk, 1 for the driver and 2 in the engine bay. I'm told it's the only rechargeable system on the market. Here's a few pics of the bottle mounted and pull cord.

 

[WHITE T]

Guys...

I have been following this, and checked some sites out but hard to figure out what I need and what the cost is.. I plan to make some call shortly.

I agree that this is a great investment!

Roughly.. what does a 10lb system with 4 nozzles cost?

Thx!

 

[Turbo Indian]

I paid about $650 shipped for the 4 nozzle cold fire system. and it is also rechargeable, it is charged with nitrogen..

 

[jevans]

Guys...

I have been following this, and checked some sites out but hard to figure out what I need and what the cost is.. I plan to make some call shortly.

I agree that this is a great investment!

Roughly.. what does a 10lb system with 4 nozzles cost?

Thx!

Seems to be quite a few nice systems out there, I would call a few of the companies and talk to them about your set-up. The guy I spoke with at Fire Bottle was very helpful and actually had a few cars using his system in the classes I ran. He threw in the extra nozzle, I'm thinking it was around 575.00 to my door...John

 

[BLACK6PACK]

I went to the daytona 500 last year with the son of the owner of Fire Bottle. We had passes to the Dupont hospitality tent (free breakfast, lunch and beer!), had to listen the JG talk though. Anyway, I might be able to set something up with the owner of firebottle to get a system to your door for $100 less than Jegs/Summit, probably need 10 people to commit though.

My brother has a FB system in his tsm car. His bottle came out of Jr's #8 car.

 

[87GNSteve]

I'm running a 10 lbs. Halon bottle with one nozzle on the tunnel next to my right knee, pointing toward my waist/chest area. A pull T handle is mounted just to the right of the driver's seat.

I've been told that I should tee into the one line and run a line into the engine bay and tee that one to provide two nozzles to spray both sides of the engine. I've held off doing it because I'd rather save the whole 10 lbs. for me. I was told that the 10 lbs. would be plenty for me and the engine bay.

Does anyone have any experience lighting one of these off? What was the system configuration and what was the effectiveness?

First off I will mention I do not have any direct expirience with automotive mounted systems, my expirience is in shipboard halon systems.
But I think your specific set up would be a concern for possible asyphyxiation due to the dispaced oxygen by the Halon vapor ( We know this is not the method halon uses to extigusih fire).The Halon soak time is what keeps the fire out but if the residual heat is 900*F or more it can cause toxic chemicals to be produced from the Halon.
But some of the respiratory concerns with halon are:Health Effects - Inhalation Exposure to vapor at high concentrations have the following effects: - light headedness - dizziness - difficulty with breathing - drowsiness - nausea - mental confusion - loss of consciousness – cardiac effects - suffocation if air is displaced by vapors. Individuals with pre-existing disease will be at increased risk.

From what I understand a little Halon goes a long way especially if its just a means for the driver to escape before a conflagaration can begin. But if the driver looses consciousness the escape is dependent upon rescuers.
I think a 10lb cylinder can serve to protect the engine and passenger compartment quite well.
One other danger is with a nozzle pointed directly at a body close by freeze burns are possible but less of a concern with a full helmet and fire suit.
Not trying to be negative but life saftey is my part of my occupation.
The shipboard systems actually had a 60 second delay for manned spaces for evacuation and ventilation to shut down before Halon release.