I am looking for some information into what steps are recommended in the dyno process? I have scheduled a dyno pull for next Tuesday and wondering where I should start. I am fairly sure I will pull a base line first, then should I try to increase fuel pressure? Secondly increase timing? Then Boost? Really not sure what to expect because the place I am going to prefers the Vette, mustangs and Ford GTs. (If they say nice Monte Carlo I will leave) Also I will be using my power logger to capture the information. Any insight would be helpful. I am sick of the low 12's
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Where are you doing this at? I'd say crank the boost up to 27psi as long as there's no knock and see what happens! I'm sure that would get you into the 11's with a 115-116mph. Can the stock head gaskets hold 27psi? Might wait for someone else to chime in on that one first.
Phoneguy
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Once the fuel pressure is verified at 42-45psi line off, leave it alone. Fuel is added or subtracted from the chip. Do you know how to tune your car? If not a dyno session could be disastrous. Cranking the boost up to 27psi without knowing what you are doing is very bad advice. See if someone local can go with you to assist you. You will see people on here that can push 27-30 psi with ALKY and 93 but you will see alot more that tried it and were less than successful. Want to learn how to change head gaskets, crank up the boost on 93 and ALKY without tuning slowly. Good luck.
Bryan
Bryan
Lethal Performance, The only knock I see is 15 degrees during the shift. It is bugging me something terrible because I can’t find what is hitting. I just installed new motor mounts and a motor brace last week. I am sure it false knock because 15 degrees would of kill it. Right?
salvageV6
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Use the wideband in the dyno. to see where you are at on the first 22/23 psi. boost assuming you are running that safely WOT now.
25psi. boost and a good 60 ft. time will get that 11 second slip.
Roll into the throttle on the dyno. in 3rd gear and ramp it up smoothly don't punch it or you'll downshift.
Lock the converter when shifted into third, if you do so at the track, or want better numbers.
25psi. boost and a good 60 ft. time will get that 11 second slip.
Roll into the throttle on the dyno. in 3rd gear and ramp it up smoothly don't punch it or you'll downshift.
Lock the converter when shifted into third, if you do so at the track, or want better numbers.
O’Fallon ! I lived there for a year. Worked in the little town of Nashville. (Nashville interior systems) anyways to answer your question. I have a fair idea of what I need to do…..back things off some to begin with. I really don’t know anyone that has done this before so I am requiring some help from the owners. They do a lot of turbo work on other types of cars.
I would not cut anything up until you verify there is no knock. 15° is not going to kill you unless you do it time and again IMHO. It will kill power..... and it could be real knock.
What timing are you running?
pump gas and alky?
What are your 02's on a WOT blast in high gear at the current boost level?
Do you have a wideband?
What fuel pump is in the car?
I would just skip the dyno and save the money and take the car to the track if you want in the 11's. Dyno numbers don't really mean a lot without performance to back them up. Dynos are relatively new and people were going fast long before they were invented. A dyno is just another tool to help with tuning a car but a day at the track can accomplish the same goals. I have only dyno'ed a car one time and it was when out local message board had a dyno day and it was free. My car but down 496/580 and the same day a Civic put down 755 and a Supra put down 1070 and that night at the track my car ran 10.63, the Honda ran 11.3(with 1000 pounds less wieght) and the Supra rqn 12.20's that's why I say the dyno numbers do not tell the whole story. Based on the mods in your sig you have plenty of mods to be running mid to low 11's. You should be trapping at least ...118 with a TE-60 at 23 psi so you may have some weak valve springs. On the knock issue, if everything looks right and you think it is false knock I would get some race gas and run it and see if the knock goes away. If the knock is real and you increase the octance by 15-20 points the knock should go away, if its false knock it will stay the same.
I saw he had a Powerlogger so I figured we were ok :biggrin:
What installed height did you put the springs at? If the dyno doesn't have a wide band and you don't have one or an egt temp sensor then don't even waste your time dynoing. I'd start off with whatever boost your chip is burned for then crank it up till you hit your goal. If the chip is burned for 23psi and it's coming up lean you need to stop and find out why.
696
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Someone else please chime in if I'm wrong but that sounds LEAN! At BG I had a run where I saw 1.9 degrees of knock on my PL and my O2's were 729. O2's should be around 780 in the top of 3rd but I'm shooting for 800ish....to be safe. Might want to set the alky around 6 and go from there, I believe thats the default setting.
696
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After reading a response by Razor, bring O2's up with fuel and keep any knock at bay with alky.
turb0buick57
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If your TT chip is an alky chip, your 3rd gear timing should be 21. if its a street chip it would be around 17.
It may be lean. It may be just right, It may be rich. I used to run .670-.700 7-8 years ago which was the last i even looked at a narrow O2 number for any reference to the air fuel ratio as part of a tune. Thats where i made the most power and ran the engine i had in the car for about 4 years before i pulled it. One thing i can say is ive never seen a car run .800 or higher and not be giving up a bunch. You are better off paying a dyno shop with a wide band to get it close. Your result will be a lot better than using a narrow O2 number.
salvageV6
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If the dyno. session doesn't include a logging Wideband O2 sensor skip it like others have suggested and get your own and log it.
Thanks for the input everyone. I will give them a call this afternoon and see what they can do about the wideband/egt temp sensor. Bison, you asked about install height of the springs…well I just replaced the old ones with the new. I guess I could pull the cover and check them but what am I looking for height wise? Last night I made a pass on an old country road from a 8mph roll and the car pulled like a mule. PL showed no knock through all gears, when I let off the gas @ 98mph it showed 1.2 degrees KR but I had already gotten out of it. Rpms were at 4839 and the o2s were at 715…..hummm lean?
You will need to tighten them springs up a lot or you will drop off over 4700. I'd install around 1.68". That will work on a stock cam with 1.55 rockers up to about 5100/25psi. If you want to run a higher ratio or bigger cam you will need more pressure
Thanks, been reading. Guess I should of pressure check them too before the install. Nothing like getting to do things twice but that is the way it works for me. LOL…. Sure would be nice to have a tubo Buick tunner here in San Antonio.
