Forced Induction's FI91X report!

DonWG said:
Bent6. I just re-read your first post. Your reaching 15 psi in 2 seconds. The first time I read it I thought it was .2 seconds. If you need that 15 psi quicker, up that shot size.

With your large plenum, you should be able to make an internal port injection system easily. Hang the system and put the thru-walls on the plenum cover.
Click to expand...

I've got a single fan spray nozzle in the up pipe before the TBody now with roughly a 75 shot jet. It gets there pretty quick now before getting on the 2-step. I'm letting the XFI add a little extra fuel while the nitrous is flowing - shuts it off as soon as it gets on the 2-step. Your setup appears to be much more elaborate than mine.

What are you using for boost control? Your motor looks much more manly now with that 91:eek:
 
Bent6 said:
I've got a single fan spray nozzle in the up pipe before the TBody now with roughly a 75 shot jet. It gets there pretty quick now before getting on the 2-step. I'm letting the XFI add a little extra fuel while the nitrous is flowing - shuts it off as soon as it gets on the 2-step. Your setup appears to be much more elaborate than mine.

What are you using for boost control? Your motor looks much more manly now with that 91:eek:
Click to expand...

A single shot dry system. That's good. Better distribution than trying to do a single wet shot. I suggested the port setup for if you ever were to increase that shot size to around 200 hp.

The present boost control system is a MSBC unit. I have an AMS-1000 waiting in the wings. I also have a CO2 setup that I can install if it's needed.
With the MSBC I've been using manifold pressure along with wastegate spring adjustment to control the boost. It's worked well enough up to this point. A little spiky sometimes, but my CR lets me get away with a little spike with this engine. The last engine was a different story. I had too much static CR in it.

Yeah, the 91X sets off the engine much better.
 
The hanger has been modified, the oil lines are on, and the boost control solenoids are mounted. The plumbing changes are a bit challenging. The 91X takes up a lot of the room I was using with the old turbo. Not to worry. I'll get 'er done.

JZ. Would there be any advantage of running a large air box in front of the compressor inlet? Something that would include a bell mouth entrance to the compressor inlet? Or should I just do a simple tube? I'll do the large air box if there's any advantage at all. Don't bother suggesting leaving the entrance open. I'm a firm believer in filtered air.
 
DonWG said:
The hanger has been modified, the oil lines are on, and the boost control solenoids are mounted. The plumbing changes are a bit challenging. The 91X takes up a lot of the room I was using with the old turbo. Not to worry. I'll get 'er done.

JZ. Would there be any advantage of running a large air box in front of the compressor inlet? Something that would include a bell mouth entrance to the compressor inlet? Or should I just do a simple tube? I'll do the large air box if there's any advantage at all. Don't bother suggesting leaving the entrance open. I'm a firm believer in filtered air.
Click to expand...



You will need more then a large airbox. Doing the quick math...lets say 1400hp. You need 128lbs/min of air and filters are rated at CFM, so we convert to CFM and you get 1868CFM. So in other words you will need one heck of a filter box.....lol
 
JZ 97 SS 1500 said:
You will need more then a large airbox. Doing the quick math...lets say 1400hp. You need 128lbs/min of air and filters are rated at CFM, so we convert to CFM and you get 1868CFM. So in other words you will need one heck of a filter box.....lol
Click to expand...

I would suggest that he mounts the radiator flat and boxes the whole area behind the grill for his air box.
That should be really simple, to be honest I am not sure why a radiator is needed in this application.
 
I've calculated my filter cfm to be around 1583. That should be close enough for my target of 1200 hp.

The radiator comes in useful when you try to run a/f ratios at light loads that prevent excessive oil contamination. Remember, it is usually rich methanol a/f ratios that are used to cool an alcohol engine down and rich methanol a/f ratios contaminate the engine oil very quickly. Lean a/f ratios tend to leave the engine running temps similar to a gasoline engine and the oil lasts much longer.
 
OK Don, I'll bite ;)
Why an air filter on a drag car?

I've successfully run an open turbo inlet, with a mesh inlet screen, for years. I don't have any collapsed filter problems, or intake tube routing to deal with. I understand a street car needs an air filter, but why on a dedicated race car?
 
d90dan said:
OK Don, I'll bite ;)
Why an air filter on a drag car?

I've successfully run an open turbo inlet, with a mesh inlet screen, for years. I don't have any collapsed filter problems, or intake tube routing to deal with. I understand a street car needs an air filter, but why on a dedicated race car?
Click to expand...

I have no inner fender wells, so when I'm at a track like Speedworld :D , that has pebbles the size of small throw rocks in the pits, I don't want my front tires kicking one of those suckers up into my turbo.

All kidding aside, I prefer to filter the air so my Total Seal gapless top rings can keep giving me that 1 to 2 percent cylinder leakdown.
 
Makes Sense, but gonna be alot of work just for a little to no return. I guess if safety is key, then makes sense. I wouldnt mind it myself actually :). I need a screen, dont even run that?
 
You can see in the picks that I already have the plumbing from the filter that's in front of the radiator to after the radiator support. That's what that black flex hose with the yellow spiral string is. All I need to do is build a box for the turbo entrance and connect to it. Piece of cake. ;)
 

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Quint said:
Makes Sense, but gonna be alot of work just for a little to no return. I guess if safety is key, then makes sense. I wouldnt mind it myself actually :). I need a screen, dont even run that?
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The return is I won't be scoring my cylinder walls and ruining my rings from ordinary dust, and I won't be dinging my compressor wheel with small pebbles. To me, an automotive tech that likes to have his stuff live a long life, that's plenty of return.
 
J-B Racing said:
Hope the Headers will not crack with all that weight.
PUT BIG BRACKETS YOU HEAR ME......:)
Click to expand...
The way the tripod support works, the headers see zero weight from the turbo, except fore, aft, and side to side from acceleration, braking, and cornering.
 
DonWG said:
The return is I won't be scoring my cylinder walls and ruining my rings from ordinary dust, and I won't be dinging my compressor wheel with small pebbles. To me, an automotive tech that likes to have his stuff live a long life, that's plenty of return.
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Not to mention sucking up small children or stray animals with that thing:eek:
 
Jose,
Silly question...Is there a unit between the 91 and the 98? How much are these units..
 
Reggie West said:
I think you will need wheelie bars VERY SOON .
Click to expand...

The car is already setup for a set I have stored in the shop. I think you're right. I'd better dust them off and have them on the car until I can see what this is going to be like.

I didn't see any nitrous being used. That thing spooled up pretty decent.
 
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