Ford 9"

Axle seal leaking
52CE3E8C-FD0C-44D0-9BD4-FD3DCF5CEF30.jpeg
 
I see different back brake and coil over shocks in the five year period.
How many trips to the Dragstrip and miles traveled from day of installation?
 
No sir

It was in the tube right behind the seal couple good size chunks

Drained the fluid that looked ok

There is maybe 200 miles on it
Few track trips
 
I tried everything to seal the tube ends but never succeeded. Two sets of brake shoes ruined. These seals just plain work, Only downside is the center section needs to be dropped out to install.
 
it aint leaking yet Chuck
Good! Glad it's still dry.:cool:
I/we have found some fixes like Mark H did.
I have installed several Quicktimes 9" and found:
A. Without the 3rd member studs in place, I have used a reverse spot facing chamfering tool or a flat side of a cutoff wheel to dress off the drill burrs. This allows the studs to pull up tight to the back side of the hsg, reducing the chance for leaks. A bit of Right Stuff sealant on the stud serrations helps.
B. I chamfer the stud holes so there's a significant bevel around the studs when they are pulled into place. This makes a space for Right Stuff to form an "o'ring" around the studs.
I also chamfer both sides of the 3rd member hsg for the same reason.
C. As for dirt in the hsg... The main places I've found are the rolled ring at the back side of the center, and the lapped over area where the tubes are pressed in. I run a welding wire thru the roll over with a goodly amt of brake cleaner.
A magnetic drain plug is always used. If a hsg does not have both fill and drain ports, I weld them in before finishing the clean up/assy.
D. Per Quick times, I use Right Stuff instead of a gasket.
 
Great idea doing the chamfers for better rtv sealing.....I didnt do any of that.....just pressed the studs in and was perhaps a bit more liberal with the right stuff application?

For the axle seal.....just threw another duralast seal in....and it has held up this time around
 
Same as Chuck, I chuck(were both anal) I chamfered the stud holes from the inside. A die grinder with a round bit small enough to fit in the hole works well if u don't have a reverse chamfer and it's faster. Use right stuff on the studs before install or it will seep gear lube around the nuts. Fird uses copper washers under the nuts but they will sledge into the threads and be a pain to remove.
See my post about "another non bolt in" about the lower shock mount studs being at the wrong angle. Pics included.
They have been aware of that for years and still that hasn't been corrected.
You will ruin your shocks! And the suspension will be bound up.
TIMINATOR
 
Had the same issue when i did this about decade ago....their jig they do the G body 9"rear end is wrong and has been well before i purchased mine.
Fix was an angled spacer like the others did
 
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