Ft cover r&r?/

[Chuck Leeper]

Got it stripped down, bolts out, including the 4 in the pan.
The ?: how far back should I loosen the pan bolts, in order to "sneak" the cover off w/o destroying the gasket? [Felpro silicone]
[Most of the v-sicks engines I've had, already had the pan full of pieces. So, just taking it loose wasn't an option!]

 

[Nick Micale]

You need to loosen all bolts for the pan to come down far enough for putting the cover back on the engine.

With a piece of string tie the gasket to front pan bolt hole so you do not push it back into the pan during install.

 

[m233roller]

Yup, right on Nick, only I tie with sewing thread and I do all three of those front holes. Chuck if you have 4 bolts in that front cover you have the only one. Hee - Hee

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Yup, right on Nick, only I tie with sewing thread and I do all three of those front holes. Chuck if you have 4 bolts in that front cover you have the only one. Hee - Hee

Thanks, Nick. I use dental floss.
Mike, I actually took out 5 bolts. 3 in the pan/cover, and 2 next to the cover.

 

[m233roller]

Just digging ya Chuck as you said the 4 in the pan, good luck with your project.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Just digging ya Chuck as you said the 4 in the pan, good luck with your project.

Oh, I understand!
I'm the Rodney Dangerfield of the south...

 

[turbofabricator]

I would highly recommend using a cork pan gasket. The silicone ones leak bad. The ONLY way to keep them from leaking is to dry install them. Not a drop of oil ANYWHERE or it'll push out and tear. Cork...........coated with Ultra Black and bolt it down to a cleaned surface and it will be leak free.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

I would highly recommend using a cork pan gasket. The silicone ones leak bad. The ONLY way to keep them from leaking is to dry install them. Not a drop of oil ANYWHERE or it'll push out and tear. Cork...........coated with Ultra Black and bolt it down to a cleaned surface and it will be leak free.

Ken, good advice. The pan on this turd has been down for rear main seal, by the po.
I'm so far into the "clean up, replace" program, I think I'll just go ahead and pull the whole thing out.
Headers are cracked, yadda, yadda.
When this happens, it's cork gasket time.
Thanks for the heads up!

 

[turbo nasty]

Another option ive done in the past (actually on my current setup) is to remove hose barb fitting in manifold that the s hose goes to and replace with a pipe plug and drill two small holes in Tstat pill.
Remove water pump and use the JB Weld Quick putty thats in a tube that you can cut off and knead until evenly colored and then pack the cavity/nipple where the bypass hose connects to on the front cover until its starts to run out the nipple, then cover it with finger and pack the epoxy tight against it. Then with a water/dipped finger smooth out the putty on inside and outside of the cavity/nipple and itll be cured hard as a preachers prick in a hour. I like this method as the epoxy can simply be drilled out.

 

[turbo nasty]

Used a cometic pan gasket with the last build and the back had to be trimmed to clear rear main cap and every hole in gasket was too small and had to be drilled out and of course with that the time to deburr each hole since the gasket material is a hard fiber and any burrs would make a high spot. For the price the gasket from them its a fail IMO.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Mine is completed. All of Earl's mods are done, and once I get the pump gasket, it's clean up and assemble.
1. Cut off the cover nipple, tapped it for 1/4 plug.
2. Removed the nipple in the manifold. Instead of plugging it, I used it for the sensor for the Speed Hut temp ga. That way the idiot lite still works.

 

[turbofabricator]

Or.......you could swap in a LSX and do it right.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Or.......you could swap in a LSX and do it right.

Already have such a project going on, on the car in the other stall
1 for cruising, 1 for supporting the tire companies.