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Galling of H beam rod pins

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dlafont

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
174
I have some galling of my rod K1 H beam rod pins and I want to get new pins however I figure I need to also replace the brass small end bushing. Has anyone done this before?

I talked to K1 technologies (now weisco) and they couldn't find any replacement bushings and because of the buy-out they have no idea what the specs are. The guy said I can probably just find a bushing somewhere and have it machined for my rods. I don't know if this is normally how it's done... Can anybody chime in if they have had experience with replacing the bushing in their rods before?

Thanks,
 
Here is a pic. photo.jpg
 
Re-bushing those rods isn't a big deal as long as its done by an experienced shop. May take some effort to find the actual bushings, but then again the pin diameter is a pretty common diameter, so a good shop may have them sitting there.
 
Seeing that you are probably replacing the piston pins anyway, JE pistons makes .945 diameter pins. You might see if they have the length you need. Then the existing bushings and pistons can be honed +.005 and the world is good.......no need for bushing replacement!!

I have saved a set of pistons using this strategy.

Make sure you have .0008-.0012 clearance between the pins and rods and .0012-.0015 pin to the pistons so you don't get the galling again.
Dave
 
Yes, that might be a good idea. I have run across the .945 pins in the JE catalog. I have JE pistons that are getting to the upper end of the tolerance for the pin bores so it would make sense to bore them out at the same time as replacing the pins.

Don
 
The bushings can be replaced and the pins polished or replaced as needed. Any competent machine shop can do it
 
Brian,

True, bushings are no big deal. Doesn't it make more sense to go +.005 oversize on the pin?

I think the last set of JE pins I bought cost me right around $50-60. Add another $50-75 to pin fit 6 rods and pistons and the whole repair is around $135. Cheap repair and done correctly.
I might be wrong, but bushings will cost more than that.
 
Ok... I just mic'd the pin, rod and piston. Here are the measurements:

Rod pin bore : max dia 0.9413 - 0.9421"
Piston pin bore: max dia 0.9420" - 0.9432"
Pin dia : 0.9394 to 0.9400
 
there is a place in michigan i bought new oversized pins for my k1's. i had the same thing happen. had my machine shop hone out the rod and piston. for some reason i can not remeber the place i got them from. i will find out tomorrow. they were about $18 each, but i went with a thicker pin too.
 
there is a place in michigan i bought new oversized pins for my k1's. i had the same thing happen. had my machine shop hone out the rod and piston. for some reason i can not remeber the place i got them from. i will find out tomorrow. they were about $18 each, but i went with a thicker pin too.

Kevin, you trying to come up with the name Trend? As always glad I could help.

See ya, Kip
 
Brian,

True, bushings are no big deal. Doesn't it make more sense to go +.005 oversize on the pin?

I think the last set of JE pins I bought cost me right around $50-60. Add another $50-75 to pin fit 6 rods and pistons and the whole repair is around $135. Cheap repair and done correctly.
I might be wrong, but bushings will cost more than that.
If the pin bores were hammered id go the .005 over route. Definitely cheaper.
 
So.. The rod bores are 0.0021" over new and the rod bore clearance to the worn pin is 0.0027". The piston bores are 0.0032" over and piston bore clearance to worn pin is 0.0038". I'm not sure what can be expected for normal wear however this sounds like it was hammered. This engine had about 25 - 10 second passes and about 6 years of summer driving.
 
So.. The rod bores are 0.0021" over new and the rod bore clearance to the worn pin is 0.0027". The piston bores are 0.0032" over and piston bore clearance to worn pin is 0.0038". I'm not sure what can be expected for normal wear however this sounds like it was hammered. This engine had about 25 - 10 second passes and about 6 years of summer driving.

Could have been too tite to start with, and did the "self clearancing" act??
What did the measurements look like at 90*.. Out of round? Detonated? Over fueled and oil diluted? Rods bent?
I drill a small hole at the top of the pin bore, and chamfer it.. Makes a path for oil to get to the pin.
Back under my injector bench....
 
Just curious. What engine oil are you using?

DONWG:
Actually don't know much about which oil was used... Bought it this way and was just doing the tear down for a rebuild. However it looked like it was really taken car of oil wise (might have been hammered at the track :-). Oil and internals looked extremely clean.

Could have been too tite to start with, and did the "self clearancing" act??
What did the measurements look like at 90*.. Out of round? Detonated? Over fueled and oil diluted? Rods bent?
I drill a small hole at the top of the pin bore, and chamfer it.. Makes a path for oil to get to the pin.
Back under my injector bench....

Rod Pin Bore 90deg off thrust axis is 0.9422" and on-axis is 0.9421"... I think the bore wear is fairly even. Pin's is not bent. faily even wear around the free floating pin so it was turning.


Pic's of internal engine here:
4.1 Engine Deck.jpg4.1 Engine Girdle.jpg4.1 Engine pistons rods.jpg
 
So.... Just to followup is thread... I did replace the pins with 0.945" pins like was suggested and had the rod and piston bores honed out to fit. Pins were only 0.005" bigger so no need to replace bushings... Everything was happy and it cost me about $120.
 
Cool beans!! Lube them up good on assembly and let her rip!!!!
Uhhhh...You're supposed to lube them FIRST??? OH man......now I have to tear my engine back apart. Learn sumthin' new everyday. I just hammered mine in with a 2lb. sledge hammer, that way I didn't need those snap ring thingies, the pin was peened over. Think that'll be OK, Dave?:confused::D
 
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