Glide Question...

[87bigcut]

I put a powerglide in my car this summer after my th350 gave up the ghost. It lasted a few weeks then out of nowhere first gear disappeared and the fluid smelled burnt. I took the trans out and brought it back to the builder. He found out the band had burnt after playing with it for a few seconds. He said he would take it apart and fix it for no charge.

When he got the transmission apart he said that there was actually a problem with second gear that caused the first gear failure. Esentially what had happened was the BLUE clutches had not been cut right and had locked in the drum (is this the correct term). He called the clutch company and they said that they had a number of callbacks on these clutches and were working on the problem.

Anyway, he put new RED clutches back in, replaced all the hurt parts and I re-installed it. Everything was going great until I finally decided to bring it to the track. It is a 30 minute drive to get there and on the way I noticed that my transmission was acting funny, like it was overheating. So I pull over and check the fluid, and it was a couple shades darker and the fluid level had risen. By this time I was nearly to the track so I let it cool down and drove it the rest of the way, when I parked it in the pits I let it cool down, then restarted the car and let it get up to temp. I took it down the side road in first and it was fine until about 20 then let loose and now it is gone totally.

The same exact thing happened:

Second and Reverse work good
First is totally gone, just revs up

This is a powerglide with transbrake (trans specialties pro-brake), and built to handle about 850 horsepower (i was planning ahead). It has a deep aluminum pan, and I run the cooler lines through the radiator, then through B&M's biggest cooler, then back to the trans.

Shifter is a Cheetah Turbo Action. It is adjusted correctly, as the builder made sure before I left that I understood what correct was. Absolutely no tension on the lever when in gear.

Any Ideas? Sorry for the novel but I wanted to make sure all the information was there.

I love this transmission when it is working, but so far it doesn't like to last too long.

 

[87bigcut]

Oh and BTW, the converter is a Transmission Specialties 10 inch XHD low stall. It stalls at around 2600 at 0psi, but will stay at 4800rmp under WOT until the engine catches up. I spoke with Dusty about this and he stated that the converter is too tight down low and really loose up top.

Any advice on how to get this sorted out would be great.

Joe

 

[Alky V6]

A visual inspection is needed.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Something isn't right with the valvebody or clearances inside the assembly. If your builder doesn't have the ability to dyno the tranny before installing it in a car to check everything, I can help you get this fixed.

 

[chris718]

A Powerglide is the wrong transmission for your application.

 

[87bigcut]

I am thinking about switching back to a th350. I was told they are on borrowed time with 600ish horsepower (the plan for when I get the money together and don't have to keep redoing transmissions )

What transmission would you suggest? and what are your reasons?

Thanks for the input,
Joe

 

[bison]

I am thinking about switching back to a th350. I was told they are on borrowed time with 600ish horsepower (the plan for when I get the money together and don't have to keep redoing transmissions )

What transmission would you suggest? and what are your reasons?

Thanks for the input,
Joe

A lot of guys are having success with the 350 at over 600hp. Tony Shoaff has one and he has over 650hp with repeated 9 sec passes. Your car should still have the 200 4r OD in it. Not worth switching till the car is capable of low 10's high 9's.

 

[87bigcut]

Since it is a swap car that I started building when I was 18, the funds were not there for a overdrive. I had a built th350 that lasted good until I started racing it. Now I am a little older, the money comes a little easier, and I am looking to go faster. The main reason this car isn't faster than it is now, is that it seems to be taking me a while to sift through the people who can actually build an engine and transmission, and those who say they can.

I know a ton of guys are flying with the overdrive transmission. However, it seems that overdrive is only used on the street, and since this is far from a DD it just doesn't seem worth the pretty penny you pay for a built 200-4r.

Thanks and keep the suggestions coming....

Joe

 

[Alky V6]

At your present power level, I would stick with the 350. If you plan on upping the power, go with a 400. I think you're right on with your reason for not using a 200-4R.

 

[jakeshoe]

A TH350 for 600 HP is a no brainer for most good performance transmission guys.
Easy build if you can get a decent core. (most cases are shot).

I would also run the TH350.
If you are in NY call Chris at CK, he can fix you up with a killer TH350.

I've got one on the shelf I would like to get rid of too. Deep pan, reverse manual VB, 36 element sprag/drum etc.

If you started hurting TH350's when you started racing, look at how you are doing your burnouts. You need to be in high gear for the burnout.

 

[ijames]

If you started hurting TH350's when you started racing, look at how you are doing your burnouts. You need to be in high gear for the burnout.

Jake, do you mean start in high, or start in 1st and shift to 2nd and then 3rd while doing the burnout? Why do you recommend this, and is it only the 350's? Thanks.

 

[Alky V6]

If you're doing a water burnout, start in second and shift up to third as soon as you can. Roll out of the water box, and when you feel the tires lugging the engine down, roll off the throttle. Don't let the tires bite hard.

The reason why you want to finish your burnout in third is because of the intermediate sprag and the load that's put on it when the tires bite. In first gear, the low roller assembly. Third is the safest gear to be in if the tires are let to bite hard at the end of a burnout.

The same goes with a 400.

 

[87bigcut]

Thanks guys for the burnout tips, that makes sense. My last th350 was full automatic valvebody so I would just leave it in D. I didn't expect that transmission to last long as I only paid 500 dollars for it a few years ago.

So the general consensus is that a powerglide will slow my car down? We only have 1/8 mile tracks around here. Honestly I didn't mind the glide on the street at all, if anything it made it much easier to feather the gas and get traction. However, if it is chopping off a good amount of ET, I am going to have to seriously consider going back to a 3 speed.

Thanks,
Joe

 

[jakeshoe]

I think your car is too heavy and underpowered for the Glide.

If it's near stock weight it would need near 1000 HP to make the Glide effective.

There are also control boxes out now that you can use for a traction control device even when running a 3 speed with big power and a stock ratio gearset.
Some racers advocate the use because the gear just makes it easier on the engine, and you use the electronics to control the traction on the line.

However at your level, I think a 3 speed with a proper converter will get you bottom 7s easily.