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Going antifreeze-less

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incubus2432

Douchebag
Joined
Jun 23, 2006
Messages
525
If I want to switch to distilled water and Red Line Water Wetter with no antifreeze is there anything else I should run to inhibit corrosion? It is mainly a street car that sees no winter activity.....I will add some antifreeze for winter storage but other than that is there anything I need to know or a downside on a street driven car?
 
I use RL water wetter and water, and have no issues with corrosion. As it's not as cold here during the winter, I usually leave the mixture as is.
 
You might want to look at RMI-25 instead of RL water wetter?
I have been using RMI-25 for over 8 years with no trouble.

Gary
 
both are good but i would go with RMI thats whats in my cars
 
I Would Still Put Some Antifreeze In There Due To The Fact That Your Water Pump Needs Some Lubrication , Mabye Like A Cup! Or 2
 
use water saluble oil, ( I know i spelled that wrong lol ) but its oil used in machining etc. that is also used in engines and it acts as a lubricant for your water pump etc. but still allows water to do its thing and if something goes wrong the water oil mixture wont hurt anything etc.
 
I Would Still Put Some Antifreeze In There Due To The Fact That Your Water Pump Needs Some Lubrication , Mabye Like A Cup! Or 2

The little additives in a cup of antifreeze will make no difference. Using an 8 oz. treatment of RMI-25 will give you all the water pump lubrication you need.

The Red Line WW does NOT contain inhibitors and WILL corrode if left in the system for a while. RMI contains the same surficants as WW, but also has many more beneficial elements for the cooling system.

RMI-25 is not a "new promise in a can", it has been around for over 30 years, and is used extensively in the commercial and industrial market, especially in diesels.:)
 
Yep..

The little additives in a cup of antifreeze will make no difference. Using an 8 oz. treatment of RMI-25 will give you all the water pump lubrication you need.

The Red Line WW does NOT contain inhibitors and WILL corrode if left in the system for a while. RMI contains the same surficants as WW, but also has many more beneficial elements for the cooling system.

RMI-25 is not a "new promise in a can", it has been around for over 30 years, and is used extensively in the commercial and industrial market, especially in diesels.:)

Like Nick said: RMI works! I use it in distilled water..:cool:
 
OK, RMI sounds like the ticket. After reading a little I have another concern though. Apparently the A/C can freeze the heater core if there is no antifreeze in the system so I may have to run 20% antifreeze anyway. Oh well.:mad:
 
OK,.... After reading a little I have another concern though. Apparently the A/C can freeze the heater core if there is no antifreeze in the system so I may have to run 20% antifreeze anyway. Oh well.:mad:

You must be reading some way out stuff!:D

In the 20 years I have been dealing with these cars and doing LOTS of cooling and AC stuff, NEVER heard of the AC freezing a heater core?:confused: [Not possible in our turbo cars.]

Go to my web site and check out the RMI Q&A page for more info based upon actual results!:smile:
 
I'm relatively new to these cars. It sounded bizarre to me but it was in Red Line's info on their site about Water Wetter. I'm not even sure of the heater core/fan/AC layout in the GN. If the water is stationary in the heater core when the heater is off and freezing air is blown over the heater core I imagine a small tube could freeze and rupture. Not saying the layout in a GN could allow this to happen but, like I said, I am somewhat new to these cars.....especially the A/C and heating systems. If it can't happen then it makes my decision easier.:D
 
The A/C system is designed to cycle the compressor off before the evaporator gets to 32 deg F. If it didn't the moisture in the air would freeze on the evaporator and block air from passing through the HVAC. That is why your compressor cycles when the A/C is on.

Mike
 
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