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Mine has been working flawlessly! Using LSx CNP and have never had a single spark issue up to almost ~30PSI on E85. Bob sent me a schematic yesterday with what he came up with for using the stock speed sensor input and he says it working very well. Since my car is put away for the summer (Back at school) i will not be able to test it myself for a bit. I have approximately 8k Miles on my MS3 swap and do't have a bad thing to say about it. One of my friends has a Big Stuff and stock ignition and has had nothing but problems trying to make power on it, I just have to smile that his expensive system doesnt have the function mine does nor the ability to run CNP. :biggrin:

,Dan
 
12 I will also be building a GPIO trans controller for a 4L80E this winter as well as another MS3/X. It will be for my brothers Turbo LQ4/4L80E in his truck. After seeing how my car runs he's been very impressed and now persueded to go MS3.

,Dan
 
would any of you post final install pics? are you putting it in the glove box? thanks for all your posts, I am doing this.
 
Final install pics.... ugh well about that.... lol Mine still hasn't been mounted since im always experimenting. Once im done ill mount it, for now it just chills behind my glovebox door with the tray removed.

Dan
 
Final install pics.... ugh well about that.... lol Mine still hasn't been mounted since im always experimenting. Once im done ill mount it, for now it just chills behind my glovebox door with the tray removed.

Dan

Exactly the same here mine is sitting on the passenger floor, well, right now its out for updates but its been sitting on the floor.
 
just jacking with you. again thanks, because if it weren't for you, I wouldn't even consider doing any thing like this. it might have more people try, seeing pics. plus it would help me before i get there. ok ...real reason... if i had started wrenching when i first got the car or read up on it, it would have alchy inj again thanks and post up some pics will ya?!! no rush i have other issues to deal with before i solder
 
just jacking with you. again thanks, because if it weren't for you, I wouldn't even consider doing any thing like this. it might have more people try, seeing pics. plus it would help me before i get there. ok ...real reason... if i had started wrenching when i first got the car or read up on it, it would have alchy inj again thanks and post up some pics will ya?!! no rush i have other issues to deal with before i solder

I don't know where you are located but up here in the northern US its cold as F&*^ out so I have no ambition to screw with my car since its sitting covered and packed in an unheated shop with our other summer fun toys. Also my MS3 has never been in the way as I usually have passengers with me when I take the GN out. Some day I will mount the MS3 as well as build a complete engine harness to replace the factory junk, for now though I have a Monte SS in the heated shop getting a Nitrous LSx/4L80E swap that is taking all my time...

,Dan
 
I've got some pics to show. But first, I want to correct a comment I made earlier in this thread (post #193).

In comment #193 of this thread, I stated in bold the actual wiring of the crank sensor. I had the right intentions, but I typed the wrong colors...

SO: Future megasquirt users need to note that the crank sensor wiring is wrong in the ecm wiring schematic from gnttype.org. Gry/Red = SIGNAL (ground switching), Black = Ground, Green = 12V

Ok, now to the pics I have. My install is in a Chevelle so my pics probably wont help with a solution to the turbo bucik interior.

Right now I'm working on burning the firmware to the MSGPIO. I installed the MAP daddy sensor, and also installed the CAN wires into the MS3 case using a headphone jack to bring the CAN wires out.

IMG_0784.jpg


IMG_0787.jpg


This is probably the one picture that might help with turbo buicks. It shows all of the jumper wires that I have on my V3.0 board including the IAC, Knock, Cam input, CAN communication, and MAP daddy.

IMG_0781.jpg


IMG_0782.jpg


IMG_0783.jpg
 
I've got some pics to show. But first, I want to correct a comment I made earlier in this thread (post #193).

In comment #193 of this thread, I stated in bold the actual wiring of the crank sensor. I had the right intentions, but I typed the wrong colors...

SO: Future megasquirt users need to note that the crank sensor wiring is wrong in the ecm wiring schematic from gnttype.org. Gry/Red = SIGNAL (ground switching), Black = Ground, Green = 12V

Ok, now to the pics I have. My install is in a Chevelle so my pics probably wont help with a solution to the turbo bucik interior.

Right now I'm working on burning the firmware to the MSGPIO. I installed the MAP daddy sensor, and also installed the CAN wires into the MS3 case using a headphone jack to bring the CAN wires out.

IMG_0784.jpg


IMG_0787.jpg


This is probably the one picture that might help with turbo buicks. It shows all of the jumper wires that I have on my V3.0 board including the IAC, Knock, Cam input, CAN communication, and MAP daddy.

IMG_0781.jpg


IMG_0782.jpg


IMG_0783.jpg

Are you running the GPIO as a Megashift or general purpose?

,Dan
 
I'm building a 4l80e for it. Expensive venture but it should be a big improvement. I've always considered the 200-4r as the weak link on the car.
 
Funny thing because I will be doing the same thing lol. We run 4L80Es in all our performance vehicles accept for my GN...

Dan
 
Chalk up another name on the Megasquirt user board.

The Mazda RX-7 Hybrid is up and running on MS3, as of right now it is fully sequential with the DIS. I do have plans to switch to Coil Near Plug (CNP) at some point.

My build varies a bit from previous posts, mainly because I am running the pre-assembled surface mount V3.57 board. I was able to get this up and running without the need for the separate opto-isolator circuit for the cam signal.

Here are a few set-up details:

Hardware:
MS3
V3.57
MS3X
56 Pin Breakout Box for plug and play into the stock Buick wiring harness
GM 3 Bar MAP Sensor
PLX Wideband O2

Settings:

Even though our cars use Hall Sensors for Crank and Cam, the instructions for 'VR Input' were followed for the jumper placement and potentiometer settings. As mentioned, I did not need to create the opto-isolator cam circuit for the V3.57 to recognize the signal. This is a good thing because unlike the build it yourself V3.0 board, the V3.57 board does not have a prototype area for extra circuits. I'm not sure if it matters or not, but I did pay close attention to the crank / cam signal grounds and routed them to their respective grounds in the stock wiring harness.

I did solder / build JimStim and JimStimX boards which helped me understand and verify communication with the laptop, as well as how to set-up different operating modes like batch versus sequential. I'm sure those boards will come in handy in figuring out how to set-up and control the Water / Methanol injection pump.

The 56 pin breakout board does have a breadboard-esque area where I plan to build the simple circuit for the stock knock module. That board has also come in handy for routing the 3 bar MAP and Wideband O2.

Thank you to all that have previously posted and shared information as to how to get this up and going.

-john
 
Sweet! I'm surprised to hear about the cam and crank signals working with the VR circuits. Why a GM 3 BAR? Did you have it around? Does the V3.57 board not come with a MAP?

Post up pictures of the ride!
 
The reason I set it up for a GM 3 Bar MAP was because I already had one installed on the car.

Yes the V3.57 does come with a MAP sensor installed on the board, however it is a 2.50 Bar sensor (15 psi (vacuum) + 21 psig (boost)). I might get all crazy and run in excess of 21psi boost one day. :smile:

Here are a few shots of the car.

Mable Remake 016.jpgMable Remake 017.jpgMable Remake 034.jpg

How's the Chevelle these days?
 
The reason I set it up for a GM 3 Bar MAP was because I already had one installed on the car.

Yes the V3.57 does come with a MAP sensor installed on the board, however it is a 2.50 Bar sensor (15 psi (vacuum) + 21 psig (boost)). I might get all crazy and run in excess of 21psi boost one day. :smile:

Here are a few shots of the car.

View attachment 153261View attachment 153262View attachment 153263

How's the Chevelle these days?

Such a sweet car. I love the center caps on the wheels.

The Chevelle is fine.

I was planning on swapping the 4l80e behind the LC1 but I've now decided against it due to the cost of a custom converter. I'll keep the 4l80e and the MSGPIO until I swap in a junkyard 5.3 turbo.

I've taken my 200-r4 to the local pro to have it rebuilt. I'll be picking it up this week and should be back on the road by the middle of March.
 
I used the DIY solenoid since it will work with a external WG and is new and better IMO. I have my controllers and stuff built for a friends turbo 440 mopar and 4L80E and am doing another MS3x and 80 controller for my brothers 6.0 turbo in his truck.

,Dan
 
I used the DIY solenoid since it will work with a external WG and is new and better IMO. I have my controllers and stuff built for a friends turbo 440 mopar and 4L80E and am doing another MS3x and 80 controller for my brothers 6.0 turbo in his truck.

,Dan

So is the DIY solenoid driven directly from the MS3X PIN6? Or a comparable output pin? I just want to know if there is an additional circuit needed to drive the solenoid.
 
You can drive any waste-gate solenoid directly from the MS3x plug in. There are no extra circuits needed. I have run their solenoid before and it works well!
 
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