Grrrr... MAF

Splwubs GN

Sold
Joined
May 24, 2001
This is my 3rd maf sensor that went bad.. I brought a rebuilt for 70.00 from jays gn. This one lasted about 1-2 months.. Then i brought one from abc discount.. I think that ran me 70.00 as well and that lasted 2 weeks to one month. Then i brought a tamco i think from postons. This lasted about a month.. I am getting so Ticked off at these maf sensors..

Now i am thinking to do the change to the lt1 maf.. I think thats what it is.. I know its expensive to change.. But will it last LONGER then thoses other maf sensors.. If so by how much longer.. I think the price to convert it over was 300-400.. Around there.. Not sure.. BUt i will be looking.. Has anyone convert theres over.. Does anyone have the same problem as me.. Also what would make the maf sensors last only that long.. Does the way you drive have anything to do with it.. Please help
 
Also what would you recemound

ELE100
MAF TRANSLATOR
Factory MAFs are discontinued. This simple box plugs into the stock harness and allows you to use the 3" MAF from the chevy Impala SS or the 3.5" MAF from the new LT-1 F-Bodies.
$ 179.00
or
ELE100P
MAF TRANSLATOR PLUS
This unit is the same as above with adjustability of your fuel and timing curves.
$ 279.00

with

ELE101-3
3" MAF SENSOR
$ 119.00
or
ELE101-3.5
3.5" MAF SENSOR
$ 179.00


How much difference between the 3"maf and the 3.5 maf?
Also is it worth getting the maf traslator plus over the maf translator.
 
since i am not a HARDCORE racer and don't really care for all the tuning options with the + version...i went and got the regular translator and the ls1 3.5" maf sensor

car has never ran better in it's life IMO well worth the money

it is also said that these maf sensor are virtually indestrutable so it should be the last maf you ever buy!
 
Thanks d0n_3d for replying.
I am going to be getting a translator for sure. But which one i dont know.. Either the standard or plus

I am guessing that i will also get the 3.5 maf.
Now with the 3.5 maf do i have to change the intake pipe to 3.5 as well or will this just fit.
 
if you already have a 3" chrome pipe i would suggest you get the 3" to 3.5" rubber adapter hose that connects the maf sensor to the maf pipe (20 bucks for a peice of rubber but oh well)...i spent 80 bucks on my 3" chrome pipe and was not about to remove it...with the 3.5" maf sensor you can connect a 4" cold air hose to it and route it under the car behind the ds headlights and attach a filter to the end of it and walla...cold air homemade style!

the translator + is used with the extender chip and you can adjust fuel/air mix and timing on demand with that setup but i want to run my other chips and let them control the fuel management so i chose to go with the regular translator (it still has some tuning features like rich or lean at idle and WOT)

not to mention it's 100 bucks more for the + and i was strapped for cash anyways

if you want to do the fine tuning yourself and are a racer...get the + but otherwise the non + version is great

either way u go...you will be happy:)
 
Good point there d0n_3d

I will go with the standard translator and not the +
Also i will get the 3.5
I also spend 80.00 on my chrome 3" pipe.. Were can i order this rubber adaptor at..
 
Hi All:

For those of you on the thread that are already using the Translator: can you conceal the actual brain of the translator or does it pretty much have to be hanging out right in the open. With the few cars I've seen in person that are running the translators, it's like the box is just hanging out there in the open in a kind of mickey-mouse setup. where's the best place to mount it for a bit of a cleaner look? Anybody have a pic?

My thought is this: save my orig maf and use the LT1 and Translator so I'm not adding wear and tear to the orig.

Again, any pics of the install would be great. Feel free to email me off the list at turbovsix@aol.com

TIA
Rich
 
Well I took out my cruise control so I have an open spot right near the window washer fluid container. There was a hole there and so what I did was screw the translator box in that hole on the one side and then I used tie straps around the box and attached it to the fuel vapor rubber lines so it doesn't move. I basically rigged it myself and works quite well actually.
 
You can get the extension cables to mount it inside the cabin. Some guys put it on the back of the glove box, some put it in the centre console. You can hide it anywhere you want but make sure it is at least somewhat accessable for when you are trying to tune things.
 
Excellent...I like the idea of mounting it in side the glove box or under the dash. Extension cables here I come. Wasn't aware that extensions were available.

Thanks for the input folks!

Rich
 
I bought a regular translator and 3" sensor. I paid $80 for a new one from a discount dealer. For the box I put it under the intake snorkle by the radiator support. Noone knows its there unless I pull it out and show them.
 
Stealth translator

Another option for those good with knitting....

Buy:
Translator for the LS1 (identical to the GN one but the connectors are the same input to output)
6" GN MAF adapter harness

1 MAF extension cable.


Then: Use the adapter harness to plug the LS1 MAF into the vehicle wiring harness
Cut the extension harness in half and use it to splice the translator in to the harness behind the glove box. I can help with wire colors and details (bruce can too, his is done this way)

The result is a very clean under-hood install and no big cables routed thru the firewall.
And the Translator is conveniently available inside the car for 'twiddling'.

TurboBob
 
Top