Gt3255, can I remove the journal bearning?

[Adam Connell]

Can I remove the bearing in my GT3255? I've never torn into a turbo before, I've always just replaced them when they crapped out.

I've got a mechanical engineering buddy that is experimenting with, and having success with, dramatically lowering friction on parts. Figured if it "wasnt a big deal" to tear my turbo down and get the bearing out I might have the shaft and bearing treated and do a check up while Im in there and make sure everything is looking good.

Would I need any special tools? Anyone know of any turbo rebuild guides online?

 

[turbo nasty]

The wheels on that turbo are more expensive now. If the experiment screws up and ruins your wheels due to housing interference then you are out a wad of dough.

 

[bison]

Id like some info as to what he plans on doing. In reality the thrust assembly in a journal turbo has an oil film that protects the parts from actual metal to metal contact and the thrust is toward the inlet on spoolup. . The thrust assembly is most like a 360* setup and is easily removed. I dont see reducing the area of thrust helping any and you really cant get the tiny contact patch a ball bearing can get with reduced oiling. I would not remove the retaining nut if it has been ground on for balance since you will not the ability to re-balance the way it was. If the nut has not been ground it doesnt really matter since all the wheels are balanced individually.

 

[Adam Connell]

I wont be modifying the bearing at all.

check out MicroBlue Low Friction Ceramic and Steel Bearings For Racing

that is the easiest way to explain it.

Basically we microfinish the bearing then coat it with tungsten disulfide. This combination is INSANE in drive line parts. This is one of the "top fuel" secrets that no one really talks about. Sadly there are WAY too many of these "secrets" that never get talked about because ignorant people immediately dismiss them...

Long story short, tungsten disulfide is the "slipperiest" substance known to man, and when you add it to petrolium products it acts like when you add soap to water. WS2 makes graphite look like sand...

If I see any sort of promising results, I want to do it to the rest of the bearings in my engine, but I figured the turbo was the easiest to take apart and would be pretty easy to compare results on Vs. doing my crank or cam bearings.

I am going to send my rear end gears to Microblue, and replace all of the rear end and wheel bearings with their ceramic bearings.

As long as the bearing removal and install are pretty straight forward, there really is no chance of a negative result from the process alone... if it blows up, it's most likely gunna be my mistake

 

[bison]

I wont be modifying the bearing at all.

check out MicroBlue Low Friction Ceramic and Steel Bearings For Racing

that is the easiest way to explain it.

Basically we microfinish the bearing then coat it with tungsten disulfide. This combination is INSANE in drive line parts. This is one of the "top fuel" secrets that no one really talks about. Sadly there are WAY too many of these "secrets" that never get talked about because ignorant people immediately dismiss them...

Long story short, tungsten disulfide is the "slipperiest" substance known to man, and when you add it to petrolium products it acts like when you add soap to water. WS2 makes graphite look like sand...

If I see any sort of promising results, I want to do it to the rest of the bearings in my engine, but I figured the turbo was the easiest to take apart and would be pretty easy to compare results on Vs. doing my crank or cam bearings.

I am going to send my rear end gears to Microblue, and replace all of the rear end and wheel bearings with their ceramic bearings.

As long as the bearing removal and install are pretty straight forward, there really is no chance of a negative result from the process alone... if it blows up, it's most likely gunna be my mistake

You may have to precision grind the collar or thrust bearing since the
coating will likely add material to the bearing surface. Im not sure on the clearance but i know its tight. Like maybe .001 or less. Measure before you take it apart so you know what to shoot for. Keep in mind that the trhust bearing in the turbo is a lot different than the bearing surfaces in a tapered or ball bearing setup which rely on gear steel surfaces and oil to keep them cool vs the turbo thrust which relies on a pressure fed very clean oil to keep a film in place and prevent metal to metal contact. Post some pics as you tear into it.

 

[Adam Connell]

The coating is only one micron thick

It's also not really a coating in the traditional sense. The particles are so small that they fill in all of the micro fissures. It's good stuff!

 

[bison]

The coating is only one micron thick

It's also not really a coating in the traditional sense. The particles are so small that they fill in all of the micro fissures. It's good stuff!

Sounds like your gtg. Maybe order up a thrust assembly so you can have it coated and ready to go before tearing apart yours