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Harmonic Balancer Nut

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mtbraun

Member
Joined
May 20, 2010
Messages
269
Is this reverse threaded? I don't have an impact but do have a 3/4 ratchet with large cheater so I'm sure I can get it loose...just don't want to be fighting myself. Also, any tricks to blocking the crank from rotating while I'm getting it loose? Would a block of wood between the block wall and crank work, or is this putting too much pressure on the block and crank?
 
It is NOT a reverse thread.

Clamp a vise grip on the flexplate so it will not rotate.
 
There are utube videos of people taking a long cheater bar and bracing it floor. bump the starter and the nut comes free. Seems dangerous to me
 
Nut loose! Thanks. I found below a different post on marking the ATDC on the balancer. My balancer does not have the second mark. Is the info below accurate?

Setting your Cam Sensor/First Start

To begin,you must first locate the 0 degree's or notch on your stock Harmonic Balancer

Once you have done this,it will be necessary to place another mark on A.T.D.C. side of your damper. If you are standing in the front of the cam,facing the engine,the notch will be placed on the counter clockwise side of the factory 0 degree notch. When using a degree wheel,make a new notch at 29 degree's to the left,or counter clockwise side of the stock notch. If a degree wheel is not available,you may measure 1.54" from the notch,which will give you approximately 25 degree;s A.T.D.C. When marking the damper, a hacksaw is best an can't be erased. also a little white paint don't hurt.

The Next Step will be to disconnect the harness to the coil module, This is done to insure that you will not end up with black finger or worse ,No Finger! Next remove the number 1 sparkplug,this is the front plug on the drivers side. Have someone tap over the engine in very short increments while your one finger is in the number 1 spark plug hole,you will feel the compression blow your finger out. Immediately stop and locate the white mark/hack saw mark you placed on the damper,and set it on the zero -0- indicated on the plastic tab mounted on the timing cover. The Engine is now at 25 or 29 A.T.D.C. your choice

From this point on,It Is Imperative that you Do Not move/turn over the engine. There's other way to find top dead center.but a motor "in-car" this the quickest. Locate the cam sensor at the top of the timing cover. Remove the black cap,if the unit is to be installed,install the unit with the window notch facing the left front headlamp. Make sure it is seated all the way down into the oil pump drive.

At this point,you will need a digital volt meter. Hook up the meter to center wire at the terminal connection plugs,plugs connected. Turn the cap upside down,and view the hall effect pickup,Install the cap with the pickup to the clockwise or right of the window or notch, With the cap installed,ignition key on,reconnect module meter. You should read approximately 8-10 volts. Slowly turn the cap counter clock wise. You will see the meter drop to around 0-1 volts. As soon as this happens, Stop and tighten the sensor,lock down and hook up all previously disconnected plugs,coil module,sparkplug wire an sparkplug, And That's It, All Done, Couple times an you'll be an Expert, Please read this thoroughly 4-5 time's before attempting. It'll go a lot smoother under the hood. Last is thing to be done would be high performance tune for what ever combination you've built through translator,chips,or laptop.
 
IMHO, it is much easier with a 1/2" air impact wrench..... if you don't have one or have access to one..... I don't know. The pinion nut on the rear end yoke is another SOB to get off if you don't have an impact.
 
There are utube videos of people taking a long cheater bar and bracing it floor. bump the starter and the nut comes free. Seems dangerous to me

I was hesitant to try this because it seemed dangerous. Bumped the starter and worked perfectly.
 
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