Harsh Park To Drive Engagment

[383CUTLASS]

I'm new to this forum but by the looks of the builders that reply you have the best in the business helping.

My problem is a very harsh park to drive engagement.

Thing I was told to check high idle, rear unit end play, holes in separator plate to big. None of these.

This trans is a 200 4R that my son and I built for his Cutlass. I rebuilt using what looks to be the std. for a hi performance build. (good clutches, wide band, 10 vane, hard support, .5 boost, super servo) Its held up well for a coulpe years behind a 383 but now hes putting a Vortech supercharger on it. So its time to make it work better.

Looking at a hyd. diagram does the reversing of the 3/4 accum piston and spring (like transgo & others have you do) take away the cushioning of the forward clutch apply when shifting park to drive??? Factory assy manual shows spring first and the shift kits say piston in case first then spring.

I first tried an att carr shift kit but broke a drum shaft on the first test drive. Than changed to a Transgo. Is there a better choice? I also think its time to get a hardened or billet forward drum/shaft?
Thanks for any help you can give me. We are on a limited teenage buget.

 

[chris718]

high line pressure at idle will produce a bang on engagement,disconnect tv and verify complaint.no wave plate in forward drum can reduce3 cushion on forward clutch apply.the accumulator circuits although backcharged on forward engagement do not effect in gear apply.a worn u joint ,spider gear ,ring and pinion can cause harsh apply.inspect carefuly.billet drum is mandatory,unless you own a towtruck and a lift.check vendor area they are on sale .if youd like additional info after the checks give us a call.

 

[383CUTLASS]

Thanks for the reply chris718. I talked to my son and he said he may have had the TV cable adjusted a little tight, which would up the line pressure and cause the engagement problem. He said without it adjust out a little the 1-2 shift happened to quick. Can the govener be lightened to extend the shift out better? Which weight does what? and how much to start with? You guys sell a forward drum with a graffed on shaft but there are also places that sell a hardened drum. Are they worth a damn? $400 is a bunch for the good unit but you got to pay to play. Thanks again.

 

[chris718]

the induction hardened ones are junk imo.the billet is necessary imo.lightening the small weight will help,BUTthen you get passing gear too early.this can cause engine overspeeding on kickdowns.you need a governer and valve body matched to the engine and final drive