Has to be false knock???

[carryon525]

i can't seem to get my knock to go away! Yes alky is on my list but this must be false knock. I am about to install RJCs rear engine brace which I hope helps. I do not get on it real hard but cruising at 45 and easing into it kinda hard but not WOT I keep getting knock that varies from .5 to almost 7!! It's smooth, zero knock noise, no sputtering, just hauls ass? Is this fakse knock? Btw scan master shows 775-805 wot, cruising stays around 730-775 and ideal 700's? I did add a little fuel at wot through the chip which is Tt 93 street. Line off is at 43psi boot at 16psi

 

[Jerryl]

The fact that you can't hear it does not make is false.
Its not false untill all possibilities are exhausted.
Powerlogger, a WB and FP transducer will be money well spend.

 

[626gn]

If you're still using that Ethanol free gas that could possibly be your problem. Easy enough to change and find out for sure.

Once you got good gas in there find a looong stretch of deserted road and roll gently into the throttle in 3rd gear and watch for knock. What you're trying to accomplish is a smooth steady acceleration with no downshift as opposed to the hard hit of instant acceleration that could break the tires loose or cause things to bang around and be detected by the knock sensor. If you have access to some race gas to mix into your fuel that would be an even better test. If you don't see any knock during this test then its time to start hunting down the cause of your false knock.

 

[carryon525]

If you're still using that Ethanol free gas that could possibly be your problem. Easy enough to change and find out for sure.

Once you got good gas in there find a looong stretch of deserted road and roll gently into the throttle in 3rd gear and watch for knock. What you're trying to accomplish is a smooth steady acceleration with no downshift as opposed to the hard hit of instant acceleration that could break the tires loose or cause things to bag around and be detected by the knock sensor. If you have access to some race gas to mix into your fuel that would be an even better test. If you don't see any knock during this test then its time to start hunting down the cause of your false knock.

Shoot I figured ethanol free would be the best?? What about Shell? And how much race fuel mixed? Couple gallons?

 

[carryon525]

The fact that you can't hear it does not make is false.
Its not false untill all possibilities are exhausted.
Powerlogger, a WB and FP transducer will be money well spend.

What's the least expensive and easiest one to understand?

 

[Boost231]

Fill the car with race gas that will tell you real quick

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[626gn]

Shoot I figured ethanol free would be the best?? What about Shell? And how much race fuel mixed? Couple gallons?

As mentioned in my post on your other thread, Ethanol was put into our fuel as an antiknock agent to replace MTBE when it was banned. I'm not sure what antiknock agent, if any, replaces Ethanol in "Ethanol free" gas. I'm not saying switching gas will solve your problem but it costs you nothing to try.

Not sure what race gas you have access to but if you run your tank down to nearly empty and fill with say ~4 gallons of 100 octane unleaded that will be way more than adequate octane since you're only running 16lbs. Try to keep it at least over 1/4 tank so you don't stave the pump during your pull.

 

[Ttype6]

i can't seem to get my knock to go away! Yes alky is on my list but this must be false knock. I am about to install RJCs rear engine brace which I hope helps. I do not get on it real hard but cruising at 45 and easing into it kinda hard but not WOT I keep getting knock that varies from .5 to almost 7!! It's smooth, zero knock noise, no sputtering, just hauls ass? Is this fakse knock? Btw scan master shows 775-805 wot, cruising stays around 730-775 and ideal 700's? I did add a little fuel at wot through the chip which is Tt 93 street. Line off is at 43psi boot at 16psi

When you see .5 to 7,you're being told how much the computer is retarding the timing. It's not going to hall ass with the timing retarded 7 degrees. You can only run as much boost as your leanest cylinder will allow. A look at your spark plugs is always dictated in a situation such as this.

 

[carryon525]

If you're still using that Ethanol free gas that could possibly be your problem. Easy enough to change and find out for sure.

Once you got good gas in there find a looong stretch of deserted road and roll gently into the throttle in 3rd gear and watch for knock. What you're trying to accomplish is a smooth steady acceleration with no downshift as opposed to the hard hit of instant acceleration that could break the tires loose or cause things to bang around and be detected by the knock sensor. If you have access to some race gas to mix into your fuel that would be an even better test. If you don't see any knock during this test then its time to start hunting down the cause of your false knock.

On the way home from the car show today I got in 3rd and eased into it and had zero knock. Then I did it again and it slipped back down a gear and I was back to the knock? Only started at around 13 psi? Up to that I was fine?

 

[carryon525]

When you see .5 to 7,you're being told how much the computer is retarding the timing. It's not going to hall ass with the timing retarded 7 degrees. You can only run as much boost as your leanest cylinder will allow. A look at your spark plugs is always dictated in a situation such as this.

I just replaced the plugs only two weeks back and to be honest the ones I took out were perfect but I still had the knock then. All lines, wires, plugs, fluids were changed? Someone mentioned to also try cleaning the upper cylinder as it could have crap on it causing this? Is that true?

 

[626gn]

On the way home from the car show today I got in 3rd and eased into it and had zero knock. Then I did it again and it slipped back down a gear and I was back to the knock? Only started at around 13 psi? Up to that I was fine?

Well I'd say that's promising but you don't want to think you're all good based on a single event. Personally, I would do more testing using the procedures already posted but that's your choice. One thing I left out that's free to do is retorque your knock sensor to 14 lb-ft. If the sensor is over tightened it could become too sensitive.

 

[carryon525]

When you see .5 to 7,you're being told how much the computer is retarding the timing. It's not going to hall ass with the timing retarded 7 degrees. You can only run as much boost as your leanest cylinder will allow. A look at your spark plugs is always dictated in a situation such as this.

If that's the case something is not right because even when it shows 5,6 ,7 the car is really picking up and still throwing me in the seat? Is it possible the knock sensor is bad??

 

[dynoman]

Also check the torque on the knock sensor . It should be torqued to 14 ft/lbs . Too tight and it will be too sensitive .

 

[dynoman]

Well I'd say that's promising but you don't want to think you're all good based on a single event. Personally, I would do more testing using the procedures already posted but that's your choice. One thing I left out that's free to do is retorque your knock sensor to 14 lb-ft. If the sensor is over tightened it could become too sensitive.

I'm slow typing .

 

[Jerryl]

Old list. Hope this helps.

--------------
suicide six said: ↑

Start going thru this list.............Turbo Regal Knock Problem Check List
1. Start-up knock? Normal and usually caused by the starter engaging the flex plate. Usually sets off 1-3 lights.
2. Possible bad ECM or ESC module. Test with good working units.
3. Exhaust rattle – check the down pipe, tail pipes, and have engine tie down strap
4. Boost creep especially top of 1st gear on 1-2 shift.
5. Lean air/fuel mixture.
6. To low octane gas – bad pump gas – try some race gas
7. Too much timing in chip for fuel used. Try different chip.
8. Try cooler spark plugs – use only AC Delco (R43-TS or R42-TS)
9. Gap plugs to .035
10. Check torque converter bolts to make sure they are tight
11. Loose harmonic balancer. Make sure torqued to 200 ft/lb Is keyway secure?
12. Check internal engine noises like timing chains (roller), lifters/rockers, etc.
13. Damaged knock sensor
14. Check fuel pump pressure and volume
15. Proper torque on knock sensor – 14 ft/lb
16. Check Alternator voltage: 13.8 - 14.5v
17. Check computer power wire - they can break internally.
18. Troubleshoot the computer connector power wires and ground wires.
19. Swap coil pack, wires, plugs w/known good units.
20. Swap MAF with known good unit.
21. Check battery ground connection @ block (clean/inspect).
22. Check/change battery cables (both).
23. Are there MAF leaks in the inlet tube?
24. Are there vacuum leaks. Use carb cleaner or WD-40 & spray everything. Does the rpm change?
25. Disconnect the main injector harness - inspect, WD-40. Check for moisture in main connector.
26. Disconnect the coil-pack connector - inspect pins & spray w/WD-40.
27. Is the cat still installed? Is it good?
28. Have you performed a leak down check?
29. Do the rockers open/close? Do we have a wiped cam lobe?
30. Is the boost/vacuum steady @ idle?
31. Is the engine over revving? Should be 4,800-5,200 rpm
32. Carbon in cylinders? Clean with GM engine top cleaner
33. Inter-cooler dirty? Clean inside inter-cooler and fins
34. Oil in intake tract?
35. Check for exhaust leaks, cracked header
36. Battery good?
37. EGR valve in working order?
38. Check that no cables, wires, etc are touching the knock sensor
39. Blown head gasket? Compression test. Should be around 150.
40. Injectors flowing/working correctly?
41. Check vacuum line to fuel pressure regulator for cracks
__________________​

 

[bison]

As mentioned in my post on your other thread, Ethanol was put into our fuel as an antiknock agent to replace MTBE when it was banned. I'm not sure what antiknock agent, if any, replaces Ethanol in "Ethanol free" gas. I'm not saying switching gas will solve your problem but it costs you nothing to try.

Not sure what race gas you have access to but if you run your tank down to nearly empty and fill with say ~4 gallons of 100 octane unleaded that will be way more than adequate octane since you're only running 16lbs. Try to keep it at least over 1/4 tank so you don't stave the pump during your pull.

This is not correct. MTBE and ethanol were not added to pump fuels as anti-detonants. R+m/2 93 octane is 93 octane regardless of the formulation.

 

[626gn]

This is not correct. MTBE and ethanol were not added to pump fuels as anti-detonants. R+m/2 93 octane is 93 octane regardless of the formulation.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methyl_tert-butyl_ether

 

[bison]

Wiki failure


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[626gn]

Lol.

 

[bison]

MTBE was added to pump gas to reduce coldstart emissions specifically in cooler temperatures where they use higher percentages of it


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