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Head bolts or studs

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it's where the tension is distributed. With bolts all the tension is on the block, stretching the threads, studs distribute it better. Tension is on a stud, not pulling on the block. That said there are other considerations, such as ease of removing head in car, ease of aligning gaskets, etc. Here's another something I read online on the subject:

"Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here's why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being "twisted" while it's being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a "relaxed" mode - never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut."

I read a quote somewhere a while ago about studs vs. bolts. It went something like this, "an engineer would pick studs while an accountant would pick bolts."
 
all that being said why dont you have studs?

Because I listened to my engine builder. He has built a ton of great engines and he has good luck with the bolts for my application. Sometimes there is no need for overkill. So, that was the deciding factor for me. It was a question I had for him, and he had a straight forward enough answer for me.

Good point for the OP... I'll always recommend asking the engine builder.
 
Thanks Phoneguy! I use the studs but regret it when the head needed to come off in the car LOL.
 
Thanks Phoneguy! I use the studs but regret it when the head needed to come off in the car LOL.

I have now gone to studs after lifting my heads AGAIN!! I wont ever be replacing head gaskets while the engine is in the car again, just as easy to pull the engine and my back doesn't get screwed up.

Bryan
 
I have now gone to studs after lifting my heads AGAIN!! I wont ever be replacing head gaskets while the engine is in the car again, just as easy to pull the engine and my back doesn't get screwed up.

Bryan

This is true. I have pulled the motor (a few times) and installed my GN1 heads in car (with bolts) and I am pretty sure it's at least as easy to just pull the motor out.
 
ARP Studs

Recent ARP brochure showed studs with a allen hex in the top of them to make heads installation and removal in the car maybe possible?
 
That was part of the idea. The other reason is for better instalation of the studs.
 
what do you mean by installing the head studs relaxed?Dothey need to be torqued ? or just tightened?I have some hex arp bolts in the mail.Should I use the permatex 2 on all the studs even the ones with water jackets? Oris the RTV better?what number RTV if I choose to use the RTV
 
Recent ARP brochure showed studs with a allen hex in the top of them to make heads installation and removal in the car maybe possible?

If you were one of the unlucky ones like me, only some of my studs have an allen key opening. Apparently the new ones all have them.
 
How tight are the studs supposed to be screwed into the block?

Install the studs finger tight. This allows the stud to turn slightly when torquing. I put a heavy coat of liquid teflon plumbers putty on all of the studs. I torqued to 60lbs, then 65lbs,then 70lbs, then 75lbs, then 80lbs.Motor is going back in tomorrow. After heat cycling a couple of times I will torque to 90lbs. If I lift another head I am putting the car up for sale!!!:biggrin:

Bryan
 
car sale

Install the studs finger tight. This allows the stud to turn slightly when torquing. I put a heavy coat of liquid teflon plumbers putty on all of the studs. I torqued to 60lbs, then 65lbs,then 70lbs, then 75lbs, then 80lbs.Motor is going back in tomorrow. After heat cycling a couple of times I will torque to 90lbs. If I lift another head I am putting the car up for sale!!!:biggrin:

Bryan

just installed my motor had car 3 years had motor out 3 times transmission out 3 times each time I say if I have to take this apart one more time i'm selling it.LOL
 
just installed my motor had car 3 years had motor out 3 times transmission out 3 times each time I say if I have to take this apart one more time i'm selling it.LOL

I bought this car in May of 2007 with 42,7xx original documented miles on it, it now has 43,277, including the drive home from the Chicago area where I bought it. This is the 4th time with the motor out ( second with the new motor ) and the third transmission(bad subject :mad:). Thankfully my RPE built stroker has not been hurt.
The numbers matching motor and tranny have been stored and will go with the car if/when it comes time. I have thought seriously about trading for a nice 100% stock car or just returning mine to stock.
I am quite frustrated with looking at this car always sitting in the garage.
 
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