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Headgasket Install

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bluezone

Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2010
Messages
159
I was wondering how easy is it to replace the headgaskets on the GN... I won't to replace my headgaskets with the RJC gaskets to run a higher compression & replace my lifters & push rods. Do any have a step by step on the head gasket replacement with the engine still installed in the car.
 
Stick with stock style headgaskets. Unless you are running in the 10's there is no reason to go to a stronger gasket. If you are blowing them, you are detonating, which will break other parts too. Figure out why you are blowing headgaskets and fix it, too much boost/timing, not enough octane, running lean? It is better to blow a headgasket than break a piston, crank, or eat the bearings.
 
All of the graphite from the gaskets goes into the oil pan and clogs the pick up screen.

Ho Jo parking lot, now that is funny.
 
Or the back of my knees.

Its about the same amount of work but you end up with a much better job and end up finding more things to fix.. :biggrin:



..
 
Thanks alot... I am gonna pull the motor out & replace with RJC gasket to raise the engine compression....
 
.... I won't to replace my headgaskets with the RJC gaskets to run a higher compression & replace my lifters & push rods. Do any have a step by step on the head gasket replacement with the engine still installed in the car.

A waste of time, effort and $$$ to replace the head gaskets just to gain compression? :confused:

The increase in compression is so small it would not increase performance as the HP gain is hardly measurable in this case.

Also, these gaskets must be continually re-torqued for long life.

Lifters and pushrods are also a "no-gainer", and generally you change cam and lifters together. If there is not problem with the existing cam and lifters, you are only inviting trouble by changing just the lifters.

I have done hundreds of head gaskets in the car, but if you do not have a good selection of SAE and metric tools, and some applicable experience, you should find someone qualified to help you. :eek:

Being new to the turbo Buick world, you need to hook up with someone experienced is dealing with these cars for direction and guidance in how best to achieve your performance goals. :)
 
Well the reason why i am gonna change the headgasket is that I know the car was ran hard by the previous owner... So i am gonna change all the lifter & push rods & add good cam... I have a guy that's gonna pull the engine out for me.... So i can do a good inspection of the engine.... I am hearing a small tick on the driver side but u only hear the tick when raise the Rpm but it goes away when the rpm's are higher than 2,500
 
The small tick might be nothing more than a cracked exhaust header, which is a case of "when" not "if".

I will second the other guys in stating that changing head gaskets and cam will net next to nothing, especially considering cost. If you want more power, buy a bigger turbo, intercooler, and injectors/chip. If your car is running faster than 11.00, then buy a set of ported iron heads and THEN change cam/lifters and gaskets. But I will tell you straight up, that doing your planned changes is ill advised. I know Nick and myself have been building turbo Buicks for over 20 years. If you still want to do it, go for it, but my personal advise is to leave those parts alone for the time being. Get with a reputable shop/builder and seek their advice.
 
Here is my setup... Well i guess I will added some heads & matching cam. Thanks alotfor the advice

Engine is stock

60lb injectors
Extended chip
Ls1 maf & Translator
Adjustable FP regulator
3.90 gears
Turbonetics 60 series turbo
Atr style headers
Scanmaster
 
Your combo is missing an upgraded fuel pump and the hotwire kit for it. That is you current e.t. and your goal?
 
I'm sorry i have i do have a hotwire & a walbro intank fuel pump as well as inline fuel pump I got GN1 performance...
 
Ditch the inline pump, in my opinion. It serves no purpose. A single Walbro 340 pump will support 600+ HP, especially with an alcohol injection system. (Alky Control) If one pump your pumps fails, which one is it, and it could melt things down REAL fast at high boost. Install a fuel pressure guage (autometer electric) and watch it like a HAWK!!
This website has lots of info on fuel sytem requirements. Do a search and spend a few hours reading. I know, we all donlt have 40 hours to search things out. Be a student of the Turbo Buick, it'll save you TONS of money.:smile:
 
I never dis-assemble a perfectly running engine

Learn to tune it by increasing octane and boost... When you pop the head gaskets then you'll have a reason to tear into it

Don't take aspirin if you don't have a headache. Here your taking aspirin Tylenol and other drugs trying to prevent something non existent

Never buy gaskets that are stronger than your pistons. Becuase the piston will fail before the gasket does and you'll wish you had the graphite gaskets

+3 on don't touch the motor

It is your car and you can do as you wish with it
 
The engine is making a small tick/tapping noise when I hit the gas alil... I check the header & there is no crack.... You can only hear the noise when the car is warm & when u hit the gas & doesn't make the noise when the car is idleing....
 
Yep, you don't change the fuse if it's still good.

Sure there is not a roller cam in there? They are ticky.
 
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