headliner
- Thread starter justin84
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I can't download their web page here,sorry
Headliner - Astroroof (Moonroof)
Brand New Covered ABS Headliner for 1984-1987 Buick Regal and Grand National with Astroroof (Moonroof) option. (Choose your color)
Completely done - no need to do-it yourself. We also carry the matching visors with the NON-illuminated flip-open mirror.
Price: $179.00 $169.00
Retail: $225.00
You Save: $56.00
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Headliner B -Hard Top
Brand New ABS Gray Headliner-Hard Top
Brand New Grey Headliner on ABS board. Completely done. No need to do-it yourself. This ABS replacement headliner is IN-STOCK & READY TO SHIP. We also carry the matching visors with the flip NON-illuminated mirror.
We carry 2 different grey headliners. This particular headliner SKU #HL-SAH, is the BEST match to the original actual gray color found on the factory color headliners/visors.
We also stock a silver grey color headliner SKU#HL-CCP.
Both of these grey colors are popular and go with our interior seat covers. Read on for additional details:
Price: $179.00
Retail: $189.00
You Save: $10.00
See more details
Add to Cart
Headliner - Astroroof (Moonroof)
Brand New Covered ABS Headliner for 1984-1987 Buick Regal and Grand National with Astroroof (Moonroof) option. (Choose your color)
Completely done - no need to do-it yourself. We also carry the matching visors with the NON-illuminated flip-open mirror.
Price: $179.00 $169.00
Retail: $225.00
You Save: $56.00
See more details
Add to Cart
Headliner B -Hard Top
Brand New ABS Gray Headliner-Hard Top
Brand New Grey Headliner on ABS board. Completely done. No need to do-it yourself. This ABS replacement headliner is IN-STOCK & READY TO SHIP. We also carry the matching visors with the flip NON-illuminated mirror.
We carry 2 different grey headliners. This particular headliner SKU #HL-SAH, is the BEST match to the original actual gray color found on the factory color headliners/visors.
We also stock a silver grey color headliner SKU#HL-CCP.
Both of these grey colors are popular and go with our interior seat covers. Read on for additional details:
Price: $179.00
Retail: $189.00
You Save: $10.00
See more details
Add to Cart
Bruce Urie
The Ventures,CCR forever!
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
Justin, you can do it yourself. Go to a fabric store (Joann Fabric) if there's one near you, take one of your sunvisors with you to match the color of the material. The material comes with a 1/8" foam backing. Buy one yard of it if it's for a T-Top, or two and one half yards if it's a hardtop. (or three, I can't remember the hardtop, though I did one for a buddy of mine. Getting old)
Also get some 3mm super adhesive. BUT...read the label on the can and make sure it will be safe to use on poly backing board of the roof.....some adhesives eat right through the backing boards.
Undo all the trim around the top of the roof, remove, then slide out the board, being very, very careful, as not to break it.
Put it on the floor and peel off the old material. Then you'll see a mess of old foam and adhesive. Using your thumb, fingers, gently roll off the old stuff. Get as much as you can off, the idea is to have a smooth surface.
Cut the new material out around the foam board, leaving about 1-1 1/2 inches overlap.
Spray the board with the adhesive in the can starting at any end, giving it an even, good spray. While it's setting up, (5 minutes) spray the back of your new material. Let set up. Spray opposite side of the board edge about one inch all around the edge. This is for the folding over of the excess material.
Have someone hold the material up with both sides together (sticky side out, like the shape of a "u") then center the material to the center of the board, gently lay it down starting at center while holding up the two end pieces up in the air. Spread it outwards from center, smoothing it with your hand. Overlap the ends onto the board and press evenly. As you smooth it out, use gentle force, smoothing any bubbles of air, and especially in the indentation for the coat hooks. Let set for about 10 minutes, then reinstall the board, being very careful and using gentle pushes on it. It should slide right back in.
Good luck. Remember, MAKE SURE the adhesive is compatable with the foam backing board. AND...if there are any holes in the board, they can be covered up with a small piece of matchbook cover cardboard, gluing them over the hole. They will not show through the new material. Easy fix for holes, rips, tears, etc. on the board. I had several cigarette burn holes to cover up and this method worked perfect. Nothing showed through the new material.
Most important thing in all of this...take your time, go slowly, be gentle with it, and think positive. It's not hard to do at all. Patience has it's rewards. I did my T-Top with help from my wonderful wife. The material was on sale for $6.00 a yard. The backing board cleaned up very nice using the method I described. I couldn't believe how wonderful and teriffic it came out, considering how expensive it is to buy one or have someone do it for you. I did have to test several cans of adhesive before I found one safe for the board. The others ate right through it like the scene out of "Alien" when the blood from the alien ate right through the hull of the ship.:tongue:
If you decide you don't want to do it yourself, I recommend Brian at GBODYPARTS, who has a nice board, ABS, with the right color material, and will make sure you are happy with it. He's at GBODYPARTS.COM
Sorry, I can't tell jokes anymore. I've been lectured.
Let us know how it comes out. (By the way, real pretty TB you got there)
Bruce '87 Grand National
Also get some 3mm super adhesive. BUT...read the label on the can and make sure it will be safe to use on poly backing board of the roof.....some adhesives eat right through the backing boards.
Undo all the trim around the top of the roof, remove, then slide out the board, being very, very careful, as not to break it.
Put it on the floor and peel off the old material. Then you'll see a mess of old foam and adhesive. Using your thumb, fingers, gently roll off the old stuff. Get as much as you can off, the idea is to have a smooth surface.
Cut the new material out around the foam board, leaving about 1-1 1/2 inches overlap.
Spray the board with the adhesive in the can starting at any end, giving it an even, good spray. While it's setting up, (5 minutes) spray the back of your new material. Let set up. Spray opposite side of the board edge about one inch all around the edge. This is for the folding over of the excess material.
Have someone hold the material up with both sides together (sticky side out, like the shape of a "u") then center the material to the center of the board, gently lay it down starting at center while holding up the two end pieces up in the air. Spread it outwards from center, smoothing it with your hand. Overlap the ends onto the board and press evenly. As you smooth it out, use gentle force, smoothing any bubbles of air, and especially in the indentation for the coat hooks. Let set for about 10 minutes, then reinstall the board, being very careful and using gentle pushes on it. It should slide right back in.
Good luck. Remember, MAKE SURE the adhesive is compatable with the foam backing board. AND...if there are any holes in the board, they can be covered up with a small piece of matchbook cover cardboard, gluing them over the hole. They will not show through the new material. Easy fix for holes, rips, tears, etc. on the board. I had several cigarette burn holes to cover up and this method worked perfect. Nothing showed through the new material.
Most important thing in all of this...take your time, go slowly, be gentle with it, and think positive. It's not hard to do at all. Patience has it's rewards. I did my T-Top with help from my wonderful wife. The material was on sale for $6.00 a yard. The backing board cleaned up very nice using the method I described. I couldn't believe how wonderful and teriffic it came out, considering how expensive it is to buy one or have someone do it for you. I did have to test several cans of adhesive before I found one safe for the board. The others ate right through it like the scene out of "Alien" when the blood from the alien ate right through the hull of the ship.:tongue:
If you decide you don't want to do it yourself, I recommend Brian at GBODYPARTS, who has a nice board, ABS, with the right color material, and will make sure you are happy with it. He's at GBODYPARTS.COM
Sorry, I can't tell jokes anymore. I've been lectured.
Let us know how it comes out. (By the way, real pretty TB you got there)Bruce '87 Grand National
It's really not that hard. I have a t-top car and the headliner was real easy. Solid top should be just as easy, just more material (before anyone makes a comment, my old car was a solid top and yes I removed the headliner!)
Buy the fabric from Jo-Ann Fabric. It won't be perfect, but close. Pull the old shell out of the car and tear off all the old headliner material. Use a wire wheel in your drill to scratch through the old adhesive. Spray the shell with 3M spray adhesive. Place the new headliner material on the shell. You may have to stretch the material around the coat hooks.
Don't let the sound of it scare you. If you can work on a GN then you can redo your headliner!
Buy the fabric from Jo-Ann Fabric. It won't be perfect, but close. Pull the old shell out of the car and tear off all the old headliner material. Use a wire wheel in your drill to scratch through the old adhesive. Spray the shell with 3M spray adhesive. Place the new headliner material on the shell. You may have to stretch the material around the coat hooks.
Don't let the sound of it scare you. If you can work on a GN then you can redo your headliner!
I did the one in my GN myself. I ended up cracking the first board and had to get another. Then I creased the material and had to buy more. Then i finally got it. It look great in there but fr the cost of a nice ABS board thats pre-covered and wont crack up again, I decided to use them on every car I've restored since. Much nicer, cheaper, less hassle, and will hold up. Just my opinion. It's a good project if you have a nice board and can find the material cheap enough. I just didnt want the hassle anymore.
I read that whole thread. Funny thing is we have the cut outs for the visors,Hangers on the side & the dome light. The moon roofs are accurate & clearanced properly for the motor & the switches.
We also recover the illuminated visors.
BTW there are 2 manufacturers of ABS Hard top & T-top headliners in the U.S. Only 1 who build the moon roof.
DIAZ 87 I love when I read another vendor has this cheaper then us. Back in 05 we were the company that shipped 3 original moon roof headliners to CA. so that they could (possibly) be built. Then turned around & bought 4 pallets of moon roof headliners so they would be built.The Mold alone was $5k for this!
(Calculate that $# when your looking at prices).
We are also the ones that spent 11 months with the manufacturer test fitting & shipping the units back & forth. Yes we were paying the shipping.
I was also the one who convinced them that there enough Buick & Oldsmobile Moon roofs making it worth them to do this.
I just think it's great when another Non sponsoring vendor can drop ship something like that to beat our price.
Justin e-mail me & I'll tell you the correct way to strip the board & what adhesive to use to recover your original.
Let me say this... GBodyParts.com sells great products. We should all be thankful that a company like this has come along, and been able to survive in this economy. I've purchased many quality products from this site and their customer service is second to none.
I re-upholstered my headliner before these parts were available. I'm so cheap I probably would have tried to do it myself anyhow. I know what people are saying about cracking. I did break off the little tab over the coat hook on one side off my shell. It's not noticeable when installed, but I know it's there. I know the t-top roof is easy. I've never redone a hard-top or moon roof car.
All depends on how you feel... try to recover yours with a close match JoAnn liner and save cash. Then if you screw it up, buy the GbodyParts.com headliner. Or just get the correct color perfectly done part from Gbodyparts from the get-go.
By the way, this is a unsolicited endorsement for Gbodyparts.com. No ties to the company, just a happy customer that has purchased many other parts! I will buy the sun visors one of these days! Although I am cheap I know that sometimes you have to spend extra money to keep the good companies in business. We can't keep assuming that these companies will always be around. We need to support them by buying from them.
No offense meant to anyone, just my long tangent! Thanks for reading!
I re-upholstered my headliner before these parts were available. I'm so cheap I probably would have tried to do it myself anyhow. I know what people are saying about cracking. I did break off the little tab over the coat hook on one side off my shell. It's not noticeable when installed, but I know it's there. I know the t-top roof is easy. I've never redone a hard-top or moon roof car.
All depends on how you feel... try to recover yours with a close match JoAnn liner and save cash. Then if you screw it up, buy the GbodyParts.com headliner. Or just get the correct color perfectly done part from Gbodyparts from the get-go.
By the way, this is a unsolicited endorsement for Gbodyparts.com. No ties to the company, just a happy customer that has purchased many other parts! I will buy the sun visors one of these days! Although I am cheap I know that sometimes you have to spend extra money to keep the good companies in business. We can't keep assuming that these companies will always be around. We need to support them by buying from them.
No offense meant to anyone, just my long tangent! Thanks for reading!
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
The fabric on my slider is slightly sagging and need to get it fixed. Do you have blue slidders or should I just have the original blue fabric stretched back? What do you guys do for that and do you sell them complete? ThanxI read that whole thread. Funny thing is we have the cut outs for the visors,Hangers on the side & the dome light. The moon roofs are accurate & clearanced properly for the motor & the switches.
We also recover the illuminated visors.
BTW there are 2 manufacturers of ABS Hard top & T-top headliners in the U.S. Only 1 who build the moon roof.
DIAZ 87 I love when I read another vendor has this cheaper then us. Back in 05 we were the company that shipped 3 original moon roof headliners to CA. so that they could (possibly) be built. Then turned around & bought 4 pallets of moon roof headliners so they would be built.The Mold alone was $5k for this!
(Calculate that $# when your looking at prices).
We are also the ones that spent 11 months with the manufacturer test fitting & shipping the units back & forth. Yes we were paying the shipping.
I was also the one who convinced them that there enough Buick & Oldsmobile Moon roofs making it worth them to do this.
I just think it's great when another Non sponsoring vendor can drop ship something like that to beat our price.
Justin e-mail me & I'll tell you the correct way to strip the board & what adhesive to use to recover your original.
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
Re doing the headliner yourself is pretty darn easy and you can do it for a fraction of the cost. Since there is some pretty good info on the steps to doing it correctly I will just touch on a few negative things that turn them into possitives.
Cost of material at a fabric store: 2.5 yards = $ 20.00
Cost of 2 cans of adhesive: = $30.00
Throw away wire brush: = $3.00
SAVE YOURSELF WELL OVER $100
1). Broken or cracked foam backing board? Easily fixed! All you do if it carcks is use some strong duct tape after you get all the excess old foam off of the board. Tape it up on both sides of the crack right before your ready to glue your new material down. Once it's all recovered you would Never know!!
Piece broken off?(by the sunvisors usually) Here again, Place the broken section back in place and use strong duct tape and tape up both sides real good right before you glue your new material down.
Just because your backing board breaks or cracks is NO reason to replace it!!
2). The best way to remove the old headliner: Is to just pull off the old material leaving that nasty olf foam. Use a wire brush and start going to town on it like crazy and eventually it will all come off. The better you do on removing the old stuff the better the new stuff will stick and it will last longer. I even use my hands and a air gun back and forth, this way you can actually Feel for any bumps that might end up under the new material. But a $3.00 throw away wire brush sure makes things easy!
3). The best glue to use Is the 3M "General Trim Adhesive" because it seems to spider web better than the supper adhesive. Buy 2 cans and spray about One to Two feet away in a side to side motion. The look your trying to achive is a "Spider Web" effect.
4). Glueing: When gluing the new material down, Lay the foam backing board so it's facing up towards you then take your material and lay it completely accross the top of the board so the fabric side is facing up. Then take the fabric and fold it in half so one side covers the other. Now you should see Half of the backing board and half of your material (foam side). Now glue the backing board and the foam side of the material, Let the glue sit for 10-15min (so it isn't wet to the touch). Then run your hand down the center working out towards each side. Once that side is all done repeat this again on the other side. Now that it's completely glued down, Flip it over and trim the edges leaving about a 1/2''-1'' all the way around (This is done to hide any gaps that may happen from re-installing it.) Cut out your visor holes flush! and use a poker to make the screw holes back in the material. and your ready to install it back.
FYI: We carry the Correct window moulding clips just in case you end up breaking some.
Scot W.
Cost of material at a fabric store: 2.5 yards = $ 20.00
Cost of 2 cans of adhesive: = $30.00
Throw away wire brush: = $3.00
SAVE YOURSELF WELL OVER $100
1). Broken or cracked foam backing board? Easily fixed! All you do if it carcks is use some strong duct tape after you get all the excess old foam off of the board. Tape it up on both sides of the crack right before your ready to glue your new material down. Once it's all recovered you would Never know!!
Piece broken off?(by the sunvisors usually) Here again, Place the broken section back in place and use strong duct tape and tape up both sides real good right before you glue your new material down.
Just because your backing board breaks or cracks is NO reason to replace it!!
2). The best way to remove the old headliner: Is to just pull off the old material leaving that nasty olf foam. Use a wire brush and start going to town on it like crazy and eventually it will all come off. The better you do on removing the old stuff the better the new stuff will stick and it will last longer. I even use my hands and a air gun back and forth, this way you can actually Feel for any bumps that might end up under the new material. But a $3.00 throw away wire brush sure makes things easy!
3). The best glue to use Is the 3M "General Trim Adhesive" because it seems to spider web better than the supper adhesive. Buy 2 cans and spray about One to Two feet away in a side to side motion. The look your trying to achive is a "Spider Web" effect.
4). Glueing: When gluing the new material down, Lay the foam backing board so it's facing up towards you then take your material and lay it completely accross the top of the board so the fabric side is facing up. Then take the fabric and fold it in half so one side covers the other. Now you should see Half of the backing board and half of your material (foam side). Now glue the backing board and the foam side of the material, Let the glue sit for 10-15min (so it isn't wet to the touch). Then run your hand down the center working out towards each side. Once that side is all done repeat this again on the other side. Now that it's completely glued down, Flip it over and trim the edges leaving about a 1/2''-1'' all the way around (This is done to hide any gaps that may happen from re-installing it.) Cut out your visor holes flush! and use a poker to make the screw holes back in the material. and your ready to install it back.
FYI: We carry the Correct window moulding clips just in case you end up breaking some.
Scot W.
I will be posting pictures soon. I recovered it with material from hancock fabrics. The fabric was a perfect mach! Total cost and time....24.89 2hours (mostly set-up time for glue). If you know how a GN goes together I would for sure do this anytime. The hardest part is putting it back in and it's not as tough as putting a filler panel on! I cracked the board taking it out and my father in law broke the Visor corner off. Duct tape works great as previously mentioned!!!:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
Brett,
You can't just have the old material streached back! The reason it's sagging is because the moulded foam on the back of the material is deteriorating from heat and old age and Must be replaced with a new piece of material for it to be done correctly. Sometimes it's easier to just take the thing to a local auto upholstery shop and let them replace it. Not that expensive at all,...
scot w.
GNSperformance.com
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2005
And there is a trick for that too!
Simply recline Both front seats all the way back as far as they can go (On seats that do not recline simply remove the front two seat nuts at the floor so they will tilt back some) then start with the back of the headliner entering the car first and as it goes in kind of spin it towards the back of the car untill it's in. with the headliner resting on the seats headrests, bolt them back down (if you removed the nuts).
FWIW: I broke the two visor ends off on my own headliner!!
They always break due to being crunched by the visors ( it thins the backing board and makes it very brittle)..If anyone is near by and would like to have there headliner done we install headliners for $125 complete! That includes the material, Glue, and clips if we were to break any. For $125, Drive in with your sagging headliner and drive out with a brand new one Installed!!
SW.
GNBRETT
Pelennor Fields
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2004
OK. Thats probably what I will do then.
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
bmackinnon
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
DIAZ 87 I love when I read another vendor has this cheaper then us. Back in 05 we were the company that shipped 3 original moon roof headliners to CA. so that they could (possibly) be built. Then turned around & bought 4 pallets of moon roof headliners so they would be built.The Mold alone was $5k for this!
(Calculate that $# when your looking at prices).
We are also the ones that spent 11 months with the manufacturer test fitting & shipping the units back & forth. Yes we were paying the shipping.
I was also the one who convinced them that there enough Buick & Oldsmobile Moon roofs making it worth them to do this.
I just think it's great when another Non sponsoring vendor can drop ship something like that to beat our price.
I won't make any friends saying this....but... Brian, I am surprised and disappointed that you would have/imply unkind words for nos4gn. Although I am not (yet) one of your paying customers, I am a big fan of GBody Parts and have many times expressed my support for your company... most recently here in a negative feedback thread on your company, entititled 'G-Body Parts, wtf!!!':
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/2369210-post38.html
I have NEVER heard ANYONE complain about ANYTHING regarding Glen's service or product at nos4gn. The same definitely cannot be said about gbody. I appreciate the fact that YOU were the one to spearhead the introduction of the abs headliner package, but I see no reason why you should badmouth them because they are able to sell the same (ASSuming it is the same) headliner for less than you can. It would seem that the volume of headliner sales that you do should make you competitive on prices. I bet you sell more of them than he does. AND...If he can generate enough sales to support his business while remaining a 'non-supporting' vendor, then all the power to him. That is obviously a testament to his customer service. Perhaps you should be 'drop-shipping' headliners so you can match his price... something that I'm pretty sure you do with many other products, and surprised you don't with this one. If I'm out of line here, than I'm sure I'll hear about it... and take it like a man. :redface: Just don't like to hear negative comments about ANY upstanding vendor (including you) who goes out of their way to support our cars... and I consider nos4gn, along with you, to be among the best. Off my soapbox and back to your regularly scheduled programming...
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