Heated O2 Sensor ?
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Factory oxygen sensors were the one-wire, non-heated variety. Back in the mid 80's the emission standard wasn't as stringent, so the O2 sensor operation wasn't that critical.
There are advantages to heated sensors; mainly, getting the engine into closed loop sooner than the unheated version. This means your ECM will respond properly in less time than the original setup. Also, the heated sensors are less prone to fouling, especially when using a lead mix or additives.
Oxygen sensors must be hot to properly monitor oxygen in the exhaust stream, somewhere around 800-900 deg. F. The heat generated by the exhaust is what gets them going, and the backpressure in the system keeps the temperature up to spec. If the exhaust system scavenges too quickly, the sensor will not reach its normal operating temperature, especially during deceleration, so the exhaust stream runs the sensor too cold. Running a heater at the sensor element keeps it at its operating temperature.
When you modify the TR exhaust by making it freer-flowing, the stock one-wire sensors no longer work reliably, forcing an incorrect reading and low cross counts - thus making your engine run too rich. The heated sensor overcomes this dilemma, keeping the sensor signal fully active and maintaining proper cross-counts.
For what it's worth, OEM's have used heated sensors exclusively since around 1996.
There are advantages to heated sensors; mainly, getting the engine into closed loop sooner than the unheated version. This means your ECM will respond properly in less time than the original setup. Also, the heated sensors are less prone to fouling, especially when using a lead mix or additives.
Oxygen sensors must be hot to properly monitor oxygen in the exhaust stream, somewhere around 800-900 deg. F. The heat generated by the exhaust is what gets them going, and the backpressure in the system keeps the temperature up to spec. If the exhaust system scavenges too quickly, the sensor will not reach its normal operating temperature, especially during deceleration, so the exhaust stream runs the sensor too cold. Running a heater at the sensor element keeps it at its operating temperature.
When you modify the TR exhaust by making it freer-flowing, the stock one-wire sensors no longer work reliably, forcing an incorrect reading and low cross counts - thus making your engine run too rich. The heated sensor overcomes this dilemma, keeping the sensor signal fully active and maintaining proper cross-counts.
For what it's worth, OEM's have used heated sensors exclusively since around 1996.
groumoutis
Active Member
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- May 1, 2009
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- 1,027
Cotton sells a plug and play kit for $100. It even comes with a heated O2 sensor.
TURBOPOWERED68
David
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- Jan 31, 2006
- Messages
- 8,819
if you go with Casper's kit it will be a plug&play easy set up.
Remove your OE sensor
install new heated sensor in its place
connect the power harness to the EGR's harness
connect the OE O2 signal wire to the one on the new sensor's wire harness
done
BTW i use Casper's kit on my car
groumoutis
Active Member
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- May 1, 2009
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- 1,027
The one Cotton sells is made by Casper's.
Royal-T-Ltd
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 12, 2003
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- 4,327
I have used Casper's kit on my car for a number of years.... no issues... like mentioned goes into closed loop faster....
aaron
aaron
I moved my heated O2 after the turbo so a non-heated one may not even heat properly in this location. I moved it on a recomendation from a guy who sent a piece of a stock O2 through his turbo while racing. 45k miles on my current heated O2. I got mine directly from casper's.
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