hi,I'm currently building a 3.8L stroker fully forged 4340 rotating assembly,precision stretched stock location inter cooler,58/58 precision BB,60lb injectors,stock throttle body,3" rjc down pipe,GN1 3" exhaust,Julio methanol injection,champion irons and ported intake,2800/3000 stall,3.42 rear.I looking for suggestions for roller cam set-up.My goals are mostly street light to light,with good bottom to mid range torque .Do I go split cam such as a 212/206 or 210/210 or 212/212.Also if you can learn me on what characteristics each one would benefit?Thank You in Advance Tom
Hello need help choosing a roller cam
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Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
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PM Bison and get a turbo, cam, AND springs from him.
That way you will know its right and only do it once . . .
That way you will know its right and only do it once . . .
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
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210 210
Thank you
hensleyt
Well-Known Member
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X2 210 210
I was told at my power ,not a big deal for cam selection 'I have two roller setups, I'm old so I like the way my 210 210 is ground
The only cam card you will see before you buy will be FT and Com Cams both close up the L/S ,the old school is opened up L/S a little
i watch Bision post and he is a wealth of information
Im heading for the track in a few hr ,I always make one pass at street boost with Alky (19# runs 12 .0) and start turning it up and will stop at 11.5,
our build is very close this car is so drive able my wife can drive it,we dont street race it but its a hand full on the street
I was told at my power ,not a big deal for cam selection 'I have two roller setups, I'm old so I like the way my 210 210 is ground
The only cam card you will see before you buy will be FT and Com Cams both close up the L/S ,the old school is opened up L/S a little
i watch Bision post and he is a wealth of information
Im heading for the track in a few hr ,I always make one pass at street boost with Alky (19# runs 12 .0) and start turning it up and will stop at 11.5,
our build is very close this car is so drive able my wife can drive it,we dont street race it but its a hand full on the street
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- May 26, 2001
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- 9,208
I am with Jason, the 210/210 or 212/212 would be my choice since you want low end torque on the street and have well ported heads.
My opinion is the split duration 212/206 would not take advantage of the worked exhaust ports/valves, and would not be as responsive especially with street driving.
Also, for street driving my experience would be to use a 10" non-lock up converter with 3000-3200 stall. That would keep your tires planted leaving the light, and spool like crazy.
Most of my GN builds now are street performance, and it is critical to have the proper converter. The big, bulky stock D5 converter will NOT let the engine respond and spool like a lightweight 10" with no lockup.
Another concern is your 3.8 stroker build, and I have done many for myself and others, it may not respond as quick as a stock build, but provides more HP a higher RPM which is not an advantage in your use on the street.
Even with your BB turbo, the converter must be correct for good response and launch traction.
Over 25 years ago we found that the most important element is achieving a performance goal is to have the proper matching and combination of the proper parts.
Out there somewhere is a TR owner with a very similar build that matches your performance goals which means no trial and error is needed, and you will save time and $$$$!
My opinion is the split duration 212/206 would not take advantage of the worked exhaust ports/valves, and would not be as responsive especially with street driving.
Also, for street driving my experience would be to use a 10" non-lock up converter with 3000-3200 stall. That would keep your tires planted leaving the light, and spool like crazy.
Most of my GN builds now are street performance, and it is critical to have the proper converter. The big, bulky stock D5 converter will NOT let the engine respond and spool like a lightweight 10" with no lockup.
Another concern is your 3.8 stroker build, and I have done many for myself and others, it may not respond as quick as a stock build, but provides more HP a higher RPM which is not an advantage in your use on the street.
Even with your BB turbo, the converter must be correct for good response and launch traction.
Over 25 years ago we found that the most important element is achieving a performance goal is to have the proper matching and combination of the proper parts.
Out there somewhere is a TR owner with a very similar build that matches your performance goals which means no trial and error is needed, and you will save time and $$$$!
Thanks ,what spark plugs are you running with your set up
Thank you
hensleyt
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Autolite 25 and NGK UR5 no difference that I can tell autolightes in tonight
I can't believe some of the posts in this thread. What is the compression ratio? Do you want a quick light to light car that has the best response or do you want a car that will e.t. The best on a drag strip? You will be out of turbo at 4800rpm with the boost in the low 20's. Keeping the rpm down and the converter flash low will make the car faster. A quality converter will work. I don't agree with a 10" unless it's really tight down low. If it's not it will just move the engine up to the back pressure zone. The duration at .050" doesn't mean anything by itself. For that small turbo and 9:1 CR overlap at .050" should be negative 10-12 degrees regardless of what lobes. You will have a lot of cylinder pressure and timing will need to be trimmed to prevent detonation if you want to maximize with a small turbo and a lot of cylinder pressure at low rpm
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hensleyt
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Tom I fill your pain.My CR is low 8.2-1 ( I thought I asked for 9 to 9.5)My bad ,my builder did a very good job just that slight miscue. So I was trying to maximize my combo for a good street driver,but I race this car in a 11.9 et bracket.I have been 11.8 with both cams with stock CR a 9.2 CR and with the 8.2 with stock heads, I added Champions CNC with the 9.2 and 8.2 build,to tell the truth I ask a similar question But no one will give up any real cam #.My 60 ft with 210-210 is about the same as the 206-210 but is more consistent and 1/8 mile up 1 mph 1/4 same at 114. I run 1.55 rocker so my lift is a little low ( under .500) with the 210 cam and not really taking advantage of my CNC heads.At the track I can run my # with both cams,on the street, seat of the pants cant tell,I think the 210 has less valve train noise ,but just a little. Have fun with your build try not to miss to much sleep.
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It appears that I am the sole proponent of a "loose" and small converter in a turbo Buick, but based upon my experience with many engine and performance car builds over the years, this has worked very well for me and my customers!
In early 1987 I installed a 10" non lock-up in my new T-Type and the only mods to the car was a ATR dual exhaust, no cat, an air intake with the ATR chip. This car remains in a time-warp still now with only 9500 miles and ran into the 12's with some re-cap slicks in the day. Valve covers have never been removed, but still runs like it did 28 years ago.
My race car has a similar story years later when it went into the 9's. In this case I went through 6 different converters over a few years and the recent converter failed just a few days before a points race. This car has a TH-400 and I borrowed a 8" converter that was used in a 800 HP dragster and was a 5500 stall.
I was amazed on my first run when the car just shot off the launch pad like a rocket and turned the best 60' time ever! This is still in my race car and is the main reason I can leave with a big-block competitor with a .4ths light and come out on top.
My experience on a chassis dyno has been sparse compared to 1000's of track runs in many different T-R's, but combined with many of the cars we have built our experience is real-world in developing combinations and packages for turbo Buicks for street and strip use.
Developing HP with our engines is rather simple now, so the main challenge is getting the power to the street or track.
This is why the MOST important aspect of obtaining a performance goal comes down to just one thing - COMBINATION!
In early 1987 I installed a 10" non lock-up in my new T-Type and the only mods to the car was a ATR dual exhaust, no cat, an air intake with the ATR chip. This car remains in a time-warp still now with only 9500 miles and ran into the 12's with some re-cap slicks in the day. Valve covers have never been removed, but still runs like it did 28 years ago.
My race car has a similar story years later when it went into the 9's. In this case I went through 6 different converters over a few years and the recent converter failed just a few days before a points race. This car has a TH-400 and I borrowed a 8" converter that was used in a 800 HP dragster and was a 5500 stall.
I was amazed on my first run when the car just shot off the launch pad like a rocket and turned the best 60' time ever! This is still in my race car and is the main reason I can leave with a big-block competitor with a .4ths light and come out on top.
My experience on a chassis dyno has been sparse compared to 1000's of track runs in many different T-R's, but combined with many of the cars we have built our experience is real-world in developing combinations and packages for turbo Buicks for street and strip use.
Developing HP with our engines is rather simple now, so the main challenge is getting the power to the street or track.
This is why the MOST important aspect of obtaining a performance goal comes down to just one thing - COMBINATION!
My engine is sorta close to what you have; I'm running a 6265BB turbo and the Comp Cam 210/215 roller along with an Edge 9" lock-up converter. The car is a ball to drive on the street and before the rebuild, it ran 6.80/104 in the 1/8 mile. I don;t know how much different it would be than a 210/210, but with most of this "racing stuff", it's nice if you could drive in a few cars with different combos; easier said than done, but worth the time if you can.
As previously stated by so many...combination is key. I bought this car from a guy who had it pretty much dialed in. It's a great street driver, very tame...until you hammer it. It's the '87 Limited in signature.
Where do you live?
Bob
As previously stated by so many...combination is key. I bought this car from a guy who had it pretty much dialed in. It's a great street driver, very tame...until you hammer it. It's the '87 Limited in signature.
Where do you live?
Bob
Yes mostly light to light,compression around 8.5/9CR.Yes agree going with a looser convertor to a 3400 stall, in the works.I know the turbos small but gonna leave for now.So what would you recommend at .050"? thanks Tom
Thanks for your reply and I live in NY
9:1 isn't light. A looser converter? What is the current stall? You need around 4800 at full load. At .050" means nothing. -12 to -10 overlap at .050". Doesn't really matter what lobes. The converter will matter a lot. Getting the turbo all in ASAP will matter a lot. Gear the car to go through at 5300 @1:1
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It's a 2800/3000 stall
