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Hinge pin replaced

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Dan SS2471

Active Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Messages
218
Driver's side door was sagging and difficult to close (hitting striker--typical stuff) so I decided to replace the upper hinge pin with a Dorman 701-910 repair kit that Aaron left me when I bought the car.

It was an experience, that's for sure. Took some doing but once I got my bearings as far as exactly what tools I needed it wasn't too terrible of a job. Will I do it again anytime soon? Unlikely. Big thanks to Derek O'Banion who put together a detailed HTML doc over on GNTTYPE. That definitely got me motivated to give this a shot. There were some additional tool required (aren't there always?) but his doc is on the money.

I'd say overall the alignment of the door after putting the rebuilt hinge back in was the toughest. I've never done anything like this before and learned pretty quickly that as little as a 1/16 can mean the difference between an aligned door and one that's hitting the body. Took about 10 - 15 adjustments and about two hours but I have it pretty close. I think part of the real issue is that the hinges really just need to be replaced. But the door is closing with less resistance and lining up with the striker better, so I'll take this as an interim fix. Hey...at least I'm not afraid to replace them when the time comes. Before doing the pin, I was talking to Aaron about it and shaking my head..saying, those doors are awefully heavy....

Anyway..here are some pics from along the way. Feel free to critique the alignment. But don't comment on the dirty car. :D

dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16959-hingepin-010.jpg


dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16960-hingepin-010.jpg



dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16961-hingepin-010.jpg


dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16962-hingepin-010.jpg


dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16963-hingepin-010.jpg


dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16964-hingepin-010.jpg


dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16965-hingepin-010.jpg


dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16966-hingepin-010.jpg


dan-ss2471-albums-where-d-my-lightning-harley-gallery-go-picture16967-hingepin-010.jpg
 
i did my driver door a couple of years ago...... what a pita. but i must have fubared something as the door is almost as bad as it was. i am not looking forward to doing that again.
 
I did some a few years ago and it was a regal PITA! Those fricken doors are heavy. :eek:
 
i did my driver door a couple of years ago...... what a pita. but i must have fubared something as the door is almost as bad as it was. i am not looking forward to doing that again.

I can't say it was an easy job, for sure. I think you may be in the same situation as me. Although the new pin and bushings are helping to make the door shut better and sag a little less, the hinge really does need to be replaced. The new bushings will only last so long because the holes for the pin are almost oval on mine and eventually the pin is going to travel the path of least resistance. So I bet that's what's going in with yours too.

This was a good learning experience for me because it set the ground work for when I'm ready to take the plunge and replace all the hinges. It's possible to do it without actually removing the doors which makes it a ton easier.
 
my upper pin was really gone. not only was the bushing missing completely, it ovaled the pin hole and wore a big groove in the pin.
 
my upper pin was really gone. not only was the bushing missing completely, it ovaled the pin hole and wore a big groove in the pin.

Yep. That's what I meant by path of least resistance. Those new bushings can't hold up to the weight of the door so it'll push the pin right into those ovaled grooves and break the bushing.
 
holy cow!!!!-----talk about doing things the hard way--------i did two cars this weekend for friends-------an 85gn and an 87 T--------i NEVER remove the hinges--------i do it with the hinges still attached to the car and when its done the doors automatically line up perfecty like they were when they were new--------takes about an hour a door---------i was doing the white T that was pretty bad because the door didn't shut very good------body lines didn't meet well and when i was done it lined up perfect-------the GN owner was watching and went to check his door------it was even worse--------when i finished his car his body lines were great but his pinstripes were about a half inch off--------seems his recent repaint was done with a severly sagging door and now he needs to get the door pinstripes replaced to match the front and rear fenders.............RC
 
Rich you need to come up north and do some for us northern guys! :) There is tons of doors up here that need help! :cool: Road trip to Kirbans! :wink:
 
Rich you need to come up north and do some for us northern guys! :) There is tons of doors up here that need help! :cool: Road trip to Kirbans! :wink:

its really not that hard once you get the hang of it--------maybe i can do a short video of how to do it sometime............RC
 
its really not that hard once you get the hang of it--------maybe i can do a short video of how to do it sometime............RC

Please do. If I made a video of it, it would be longer than Dances With Wolves....
 
talk about doing things the hard way--------i NEVER remove the hinges


+1. Rich you failed to mention one of these tools come in handy for doing the upper hinge. Door Hinge Spring Compressor Tool for GM Cars - 87675, by Tool Aid

I use a fiberglass cutting disc on the pin to get it out. I never gave a damn about the oval shaped holes. GM(and GBodyParts) sells an oversize bushing that fits most of those types of problems. If any thing you can get away with removing the hinge half on the door side but never,ever remove the hinge pillar half if you want things to line up like it was when the car was new.
 
+1. Rich you failed to mention one of these tools come in handy for doing the upper hinge. Door Hinge Spring Compressor Tool for GM Cars - 87675, by Tool Aid

I use a fiberglass cutting disc on the pin to get it out. I never gave a damn about the oval shaped holes. GM(and GBodyParts) sells an oversize bushing that fits most of those types of problems. If any thing you can get away with removing the hinge half on the door side but never,ever remove the hinge pillar half if you want things to line up like it was when the car was new.

agreed---------the spring compressor is a must have but they are easily available------i got mine from the MAC tool man but it seems everyone has them--------i have found that a air grinder with a disc, a small air saw or even a dremel tool with a cutting disc makes it easy to cut the pins in half and remove them-------when i replace them i grind off the knurling so it makes it easier to insert the new pins all the way and i retain them with cotter pins by drilling a small hole through them-------makes it a ten minute job the next time it needs to be done if the bushings ever wear out again--------first time i did this about 95-96 i removed the hinges--------it must have took me a million hours to finally get that door right............RC
 
Thanks a million for doing my hinge pins this past weekend Richard!!

I had plans to take the car to the paint and body shop sometime in the near future to fix a couple of scratches and paint dings, so the pinstripe will get fixed then too.

I wish this was done years ago. It makes a big difference!

Thanks Again!
Eric
 
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