Hooked up my Power Injection light and put directions on my web page

[salvageV6]

That's exactly how I found out my alky. wasn't flowing this week. Casper's audible knock detector, got all the way to 12*KR too.

Anyway I tried a float switch that was around $40 and it didn't last long. Reed relay type.

I am sure there are $300-$500 all stainless switches that would work.

I wanted to do some boost control and/or timing retard off the alky. flow switch, it just didn't work out.

Caspers audible gauge does work well however.

 

[TurboBuickSix]

I had a dash harness from an 84 T and it does in fact have a socket and bulb for the PI light.The pic at the top shows the socket coming from the harness(blue socket).I traced it all the way to the correct PI light plug underhood.I looked at my 86 and it DOES NOT have this socket in the dash,but it DOES have the wire still underhood (bottom pic is the 86')even though when it reaches the fuse box it does not have a wire connected on the inside of the car.I don't know about any other year cars, 85' would be the only questionable year actually, as this confirms 84' to me.Here are the pics 84 OEM PI light I clipped this socket off after the pic stuck it in the proper hole and ran the wires down to light up the PI light when the solenoid on the propain is energized.

 

[blackbuick87]

Thanks for the info Dave, now I know in case anyone asks.

I think it would be six in one hand and a half dozen in the other as to which method would be easier, using the green wire and then running from the fuse box, or just going the route I did and skipping the fuse box (on the 86 that is, not the 84)

 

[TurboBuickSix]

I think if you don't have the socket your way is the way that makes most sense.On 84s and maybe 85s-This is too easy for the hot air guys but they need a break from PITAs' anyways!! It is good to have this in the archives and I did take more pics if anyone wants them,I will not be keeping those pics on that page long so save em if ya want em.If anyone should want them or the one of where it comes out the juction block(top left most green wire)drop me an e-mail and I will send them back to you

NOTE:I think ALL 84 Regals may have this wiring included,kind of remember it being on my na 84 too but not 100% sure..

 

[OneLethal87GN]

I want to do this on mine soon. However, I want both my "power injection" light and my "fasten seat belt" light to come on at the same time. Got that idea from another post.

 

[blackbuick87]

Originally posted by OneLethal87GN
I want to do this on mine soon. However, I want both my "power injection" light and my "fasten seat belt" light to come on at the same time. Got that idea from another post.

That wouldnt be too hard. The easiest way would be to splice off the PI light and go under the speedo, then you would need another 194 bulb and socket, because you could not re-use the factory one.

John DiCarlo has his backup lights come on when his alky kicks in

 

[325DR]

blackbuick87,

Instead of using 14AWG wire, can something smaller be used (like 20 or 24AWG)?

I want to hook my ATR Double Pumper light to this, but the wire that is included is very very thin. It may even be 26awg. The light on the end of this wire is a little dinky light so Im sure it doesnt need much juice. Would the 194 bulb require a bigger wire than 26awg? Is there a different bulb or socket I can use that will draw less power? I dont want to over-power the wires and want to make sure they are ok. Thanks for any input.

*I may be able to open up the relay and solder thicker wire instead of the wire that comes with it.

 

[blackbuick87]

Well you want to think long term, and you dont want things shorting out in a year or two.

14 is definitely overkill, but I wanted to make sure anyone taking my advice did not have problems or catch their car on fire because of me.

18 gauge is the smallest I would go, anything smaller than that is useless IMO. You can p/u a spool of 18AWG for $5 at any electronics store.

Is the wire with your double pumper specifically designed for an activation light? You could probably get by with a 5amp fuse as long as the wire is not intended to power the FP in any way

 

[6SENSE]

Was just wandering by and decided to take a look at this thread .
Listen to blackbuick87 on going for overkill on the wire. I wired my setup similar to this a couple years back and just this week I suddenly started having problems with blowing fuses. I was using a 10amp fuse, it blew and so did the replacement. Being the daring fellow I am , I threw in a 20amp and it lasted a day and then blew as well. I think I will be rewiring everything with thicker gauge. Thats the only thing I can think of. It lasted for a long time, but its not something I wanted to be doing over and over. I dont remember for sure but the gauge I used was probably 18.
Oh yeah, Auto Zone has packs of wire in pretty decent lengths (depends on gauge) in different guages (22-10 I think) and several different colors for pretty cheap prices. Its quality stuff, I use it all the time.

 

[d0n_3d]

i've got you all beat in AWG used...all i had was 12 gauge so i used that to hook up my power injection light...LOL it's a tight fit that's for sure...but all i did was run one side of the bulb socket to a ground...and the other terminal to the RED wire screw on the SMC control box...(of course this applies to SMC users only)

i tested it out by routing the main feed line of the alky kit and looped it back into the tank...pressed the test button...power injection light lights up as long as it's spraying and the kit sprays like it should...all is well now...

now all i have to do is install my nozzles the CORRECT way this time!!!