How bad is this??

[Madcat455]

Took the rear seat out today... PO had installed a 1in thick board with 4 6x9's in the rear package tray. So, I'm taking them out.. remove the rear seat.. and I see that the vertical center piece is cut out... I figure no biggie... then I remove the board, and see that he cut out the whole F'n package tray along with it.

SO... exactly how bad is this? and if it's bad.. where/how should I go about fixing it? Weld in steel supports, try to find another package tray.. any suggestions?

Here's some pics:

 

[Just a Six??]

What an Animal!! Is that a big peice of Wood?? That would make me crazy! I'm sure it can be repaired but its gonna be a pita getting parts & then the repairs. Good Luck!

 

[Dayton]

Holy Crap!!!!

 

[Jerryl]

Well, IMHO ... .....
If you are cruising on weekends, no fast cornering, no high speed lane changes, no drag races, it is no big deal.

Having said that though: Do you recall the rear "X - Braces" that some of the vendors sell that mound in the trunk? The ones to "stiffen" up the body? (Enough said I think)

 

[RUQWKNF]

Only problem is, Kirbans Rear Seat Braces that you speak of will not work without the vertical center steel support piece that runs from the trunk floor to the package tray. You might try contacting Gbodyparts to see if he has any donor parts for your project.
HTH

Patrick

 

[Madcat455]

Big peice of wood?? YES!!.. had to be 1in when it started, I got the car with the rear window practically falling out (if not for the duct tape holding it in), and I'm sure that water made it swell up like that.

I had to actually remove the rear window to get that last piece off. Then I saw what looks like stress cracks in the upper corners of the window mount area, and rust HOLES in the lower corners

I was thinking that I could weld in two pieces of Square steel diagonally from the upper corners down to the center floor behind the seat, and two pieces from side to side at the back (below the window) and front (where the package tray "Should" be) and tack weld sheet metal to those.

If some vendors already sell rear seat braces, I'll check into those first and see where I'd be using that as a starting point.

If I had to make it myself... do you think 1/8th thick 1/2 or 3/4 square steel would be strong enough to do the job??

I'll cut some sheet metal and weld it in to fix the holes in the lower corners, but that's useless if I don't reinforce it back there.

and NO... Jeff is not a happy camper right now... Talk about thinking that I'm almost done.. just have to reseal the window, new front springs and alignment, then it's road worthy.... ONLY to find that today Man... I was soo close:frown:

 

[RUQWKNF]

Here is the only pic I have of what a stock un-touched vertical support beam looks like from my T.

HTH

Patrick

 

[Jerryl]

Only problem is, Kirbans Rear Seat Braces that you speak of will not work without the vertical center steel support piece that runs from the trunk floor to the package tray. You might try contacting Gbodyparts to see if he has any donor parts for your project.
HTH

Patrick

Correct.
I should have been clearer: The factory bracing and stiffness in the back can be greatly improved through aftermarket parts (bracing), so, why take any of the current bracing out?

 

[RUQWKNF]

It looks like Madcat455s, cars previous owner cut out as much as he could to install a sub box of some sort. I have see this done before, IE removal of the support beam for speaker box installations. Give Brian at Gbodyparts a shot, I bet he'll have the factory pieces you need to fix her up good as new.

 

[Madcat455]

Only problem with Brian is that he'll have to cut what I need out, and that'll make it expensive. I'll give him a call any way to be sure.

But, I've pretty much run out of money for this car... for now. I could let it sit for a couple of months till things pick back up.

BUT... I'm not really concerned with "Correctness".... The car is "Just" a cutlass, nothing special. Never going to be in any shows (PO took care of that).

SO.. if I could fix this with $30 of steel from lowes and some time... that's going to be the way I have to go (finacially).

Since you all have pretty much confirmed that this HAS to be fixed for me to do any kind of agressive driving. I need to know if you think that geting creative with fixing it would work.

This is what I was thinking.... 1/8th in think angle iron or square tubing where the yellow is... and possible some where the pink is too.

Do you think that'd hold?? I know it won't be pretty.. but the car's just a driver.

What do ya think??

 

[Dewey]

If you can come up with a battery powered sawzall or something like that you could probably get those pieces from a junkyard G-body for next to nothing.

 

[Madcat455]

If you can come up with a battery powered sawzall or something like that you could probably get those pieces from a junkyard G-body for next to nothing.

Work 6 days a week.. only day off is Sunday. No yards open on Sunday here. I could've saved alot of money on this car if I'd been able to get to the yards:frown:

 

[Madcat455]

OK.... after some cutting and welding (try not to laugh at the welds.. I'm not even a novice ).. I'm looking for your opinions.

Do you think this will be good, or should I add some diagnol supports from the upper corners to the lower center?

Opinions?? Please be gentile... it's just a cutlass.. or... Butlass if you will

 

[SHADOWII]

That's looking ....

like it will take care of the problem. might want to carry the bottom of the "T" to the sheet metal on either side to include them into the strengthening of the tubing. then add the cross members or diagnals.

 

[onefastcar]

Is it a convertible or did ya chop the top i don't see it, if so i would do the diagonal bracing?

 

[Madcat455]

Is it a convertible or did ya chop the top i don't see it, if so i would do the diagonal bracing?

No, the roof it there and in good shape.

 

[onefastcar]

ok i guess your pics just missed the pillars and is lookin through the back window, i'm less confused than i normally am.:wink:

 

[PowerKraus]

Looks like what you did is 'better' for structural integrity. If you want, you can easily cover all that up with trunk carpeting. Personally, based on your comments, I would leave it exposed and make a move on the rest of your 'todo' list.

 

[turbofabricator]

While you are this far, weld some sheet metal (.024" steel) on the entire surface and package deck and then you will be NHRA legal for N20 and trunk mount battery. Not to mention it will stiffin it up a BUNCH! You only need to drill 1/4" holes in the sheet 4" apart and then "spot" weld it to your metal frame work. Then take seam sealer from NAPA and seal it all up and give it a coat of primer and then trunk paint. It'll be better than new!