How did you get to mid-low 11s?

[ITSAV6]

Stock pinion snubber? The extended snubbers sometimes unload the tires and cause spin. Use one of the online calculators to estimate converter slip. If you are driving over the converter more timing won't help. You can try the JD Hygard fluid and it could tighten the converter a little. Bump shift points to 5700 might help also by getting into the coupling rpm. Or just get Lonnie or Dave or Dusty to build you a 9.5 for your combo.

 

[Street Lethal]

That I don't know. It was Razors standard kit purchased around 2010 I think, if that helps.

I'm pretty sure the M15 is the standard that the kit came with, should be around 625 ml/min. Anyways, reading some of the other comments, I don't think it's the converter. Calculations based on your horsepower and weight (I have you at 3500 pounds), which although suggests 400-FWHP, more than likely is less than that, has you right at a 1.75/1.80 sixty foot, which is where you currently are. It wouldn't be a matter of swapping to a tighter converter, just add horsepower to make the 2800 stall speed you're currently running more efficient. Timing is your torque control.

 

[Pronto]

Alkycontrol pump from 2010 is out of date. Needs to be replaced for safety's sake.

 

[jskarateka]

Do you have a time slip?
How many mph is the eighth mile?
How much is it picking up in the second half of the track?
How old is the pump? What pump is it?
It is looking like a real loose converter and not coupling up on the top of the track to me if the pump is supplying the fuel.

Don't have the time slip handy but my best 11.97 run was 91mph in the 8th at I think 112 at the finish. So I only pick up 20 or so MPH on the back half which has been my issue forever, even with the old longblock.
It's an old Walbro 255 from Full Throttle Speed, but I'm not leaning out at the end of the run. Wideband and narrowband readings are good. If I add 3rd gear fuel it slows down, subtract much and I start getting a little knock.

Stock pinion snubber? The extended snubbers sometimes unload the tires and cause spin. Use one of the online calculators to estimate converter slip. If you are driving over the converter more timing won't help. You can try the JD Hygard fluid and it could tighten the converter a little. Bump shift points to 5700 might help also by getting into the coupling rpm. Or just get Lonnie or Dave or Dusty to build you a 9.5 for your combo.

Yes, stock snubber.

Alkycontrol pump from 2010 is out of date. Needs to be replaced for safety's sake.

Replaced the pump about 3 years ago when the seals went and it started leaking. Due for another one soon, thanks.

 

[jskarateka]

Allot of good advice here as usual. I'll give these things a try per the consensus;

1) A little 3rd gear timing.

2) Locking the converter in 3rd. It didn't help with the old build, but I haven't tried locking with the new build yet. If that helps maybe swap it out for a 9.5 inch at some point.

3) Eventually swap the turbo out with a slightly larger, modern one from this decade.

Thank you gentlemen.

 

[Mr.Spool]

Allot of good advice here as usual. I'll give these things a try per the consensus;

1) A little 3rd gear timing.

2) Locking the converter in 3rd. It didn't help with the old build, but I haven't tried locking with the new build yet. If that helps maybe swap it out for a 9.5 inch at some point.

3) Eventually swap the turbo out with a slightly larger, modern one from this decade.

Thank you gentlemen.

If I may,don't lock the ptc 10.5 at wot it's not meant for it.swapping out the turbo when your only running a 49 to 112mph is the wrong move.increasing timing in 3rd only brings you closer to hurting the motor.back in the day I ran 10s with a 49 turbo stock motor with a ported head.converter was loose down low 3200 stall and locked up at wot.i tried several converters to nail the combo down at the time.with the right converter the car would back half 25mph with the highest mph at 125.at 25lbs of boost the car would go 118mph.60fts were 1.4/1.5 on drag radials.i really feel you need to make a few changes and work the combo with the right tire and launch technique.

 

[2Blueregals]

With my 1987 Limited, have run many 11.40- 11.50's and best of 11.36 - 114 MPH - 7.20 - 94 MPH 1/8 TH - 1.54 60' with a 1990's John Craig TA-49, TH downpipe and cutout. Unopened longblock, just valve springs. max. 23 lbs. boost. 110+ octane . Old school basic setup , very effective, chip with lots of timing, 009 injectors, XP pump, hotwired, adj. regulator, colder spark plugs, 160 thermostat. Stock location stretch IC. Air filter behind front bumper. Front sway bar removed, Koni adj. front drag shocks, with original springs. 9x28 slicks on stock rims, with screws. ATR rear sway bar, with original rear shocks and springs, boxed stock control arms with poly bushings. 1 air bag with only minimal pressure due to larger ATR sway bar. When I used stock rear bar used at least 20 lbs. air in bag. Pulled best 60' with ATR bar ,with stock sway bar believe it was 1.59 .Line lock. Transmission gone through with upgrades, and Dave Husek reworked D5 convertor, not locked when making a pass. When my rubber passenger floor mat flips in half on launch, I know I am on to a good run, 1.60 or better 60'. Cool days and a prepped track helps too.

 

[TexasT]

You are picking up 20mph in the top half, that isn't too bad. I'm thinking ,as above, work on the launch. Tire pressure, what do your "stripes" look like? Nice even black stripes indicate good pressure. Too much at the edges or in the middle needs some adjustment. Big Rear bar helps and getting the front up and keeping it up so it doesn't unload the tires, then it can settle down for aero at the top end. A stiff suspension goes up and down in front and unloads the tires. Put a shoe polish stripe on the tire at the valve stem and get someone to shoot some vid of your launch. You can see if the strip on the tire spins, if your tire is spinning on the rim if it moves away from the valve stem and see how your front end is doing. I like a loose front bar or if you have the big rear one, loose the front all together. Not good on the street but hot ticket for the track. Some "less expensive" front shocks might help let the front up. Real stiff bilsteins or kyb are great for cornering but not so great for having the front up to keep the rear tires planted. Might need an air bag on one side to even out the plant of the rears. Big bar usually takes car of that but if you are running the stock one this can be a band aid.

 

[69RSCLONE]

I run stock long block with stock cam, springs only, limit ta-49 on alky, stock intercooler. I have a boxed frame with braces and boxed control arms with rubber bushings and body mounts. Stock springs, no bags, and bilstein shocks all 4 corners. With Husek 3021 converter I ran a 1.67 60' on 255 MT Drag radials on the first night out with a as purchased TT 6.1 alky chip at 24 psi. 11.88 at 112mph. My car has no traction issues with the narrower tire and runs the same mph at the end. With tuning and more seat time it should be closer to mid 11's. I think you need to work on the suspension if it's breaking loose on 275's. Then turn up the boost.

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[Nigel]

I run stock long block with stock cam, springs only, limit ta-49 on alky, stock intercooler. I have a boxed frame with braces and boxed control arms with rubber bushings and body mounts. Stock springs, no bags, and bilstein shocks all 4 corners. With Husek 3021 converter I ran a 1.67 60' on 255 MT Drag radials on the first night out with a as purchased TT 6.1 alky chip at 24 psi. 11.88 at 112mph. My car has no traction issues with the narrower tire and runs the same mph at the end. With tuning and more seat time it should be closer to mid 11's. I think you need to work on the suspension if it's breaking loose on 275's. Then turn up the boost.

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Just curious, what was your trap RPM? Thanks.

 

[69RSCLONE]

Just under 5300 rpm

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[Nigel]

Top of second is 5550, shift to 3rd brings it down to 4850, then back up to about 5500 at finish line. Trans is built big time, no slip.


.

As others have mentioned, I think this is your weak link. The 49 cannot supply the mass flow at these RPMs, you are way off optimum on the compressor map and probably making hot air. Every fast car with a 44 or a 49 has a tight converter and/or a locking converter locked at WOT in 3rd. The stock long block cars seem to do the best with the 44/49, when the RPMs are kept low.
I ran the times in my sig with an unlocked stock converter and 255/60-15 ET streets, tried to lock it once and saw no improvement, so I assumed it was slipping and quit trying to lock it. Running mid 1.6s for 60 foot. I don't think I could 60 any better with the stock converter. It would stall @ 3500-3600 with 20 psi boost, no spin on the launch. Many have been quicker with a stock long block.
I installed Dave's 3021, but have not run it yet, have some other gremlins to chase down before I can get it out. Did some street driving before the gremlins, and it seems to be a good converter. 2500 to 2600 stall @ 0 boost, flash is around 4300-4400 rpm. Does not seem to slip a lot past 5000 rpm. Hopefully will get to the track soon and find out, but the converter looks to be a good match for a small turbo.

 

[Nigel]

I had a chance to run Dave's 3021, so far I am very pleased. It actually stalls a little lower at zero boost, around 2200 rpm. It starts to come right up under boost though and flashes at 4450-4500 rpm. Slip on the big end is roughly 9%, very good for a LU. Excellent converter for a TE-44 and the 206 roller. Best time slip data.
60 - 1.64
1/8 - 7.273@93.41
1/4 - 11.53@114.14
Previous best with the stock convertor was 11.66@113
For the moment I plan to keep tweaking as I think there is more in it. Car is very fun to drive also.

 

[Nigel]

Forgot to mention, shift points stayed very close to stock. Car shifts around 5100 rpm, which gives an idea how tight the converter is up top.