How do I get there from here,need a vendor with a formula and some patience.

[Phartsmellar]

Thats the kind of info I am looking for,Thanks..I am still a bit curious if alcohol is neccasary for any reason when using race gas?

 

[Blazer406]

Thats the kind of info I am looking for,Thanks..I am still a bit curious if alcohol is neccasary for any reason when using race gas?

Not necessary..... but if you decide to run pump gas on the street..... and do more street driving......you could still have high 9 sec potential without the race gas.

If you pick a good intercooler..... the alky on a race gas engine isn't necessary at all. If you have a marginal intercooler..... it can decrease inlet air temps by 100 deg or more in certain instances. We use it on Alan's turbo V6 IROC because the airflow/intercooler isn't real efficient..... and our inlet temps went over 150° at 21 psi boost a couple years ago.....

 

[Grumpy]

well seeing your goin to spend some $$$$ why not resell the rust bucket ya just bought an get a nice rust free car to start off your build. There are a few cars in here that would fit the bill for ya. Will save you TONS of aggravation

 

[dr_frankenstein]

well seeing your goin to spend some $$$$ why not resell the rust bucket ya just bought an get a nice rust free car to start off your build. There are a few cars in here that would fit the bill for ya. Will save you TONS of aggravation

+1

A.j.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

well seeing your goin to spend some $$$$ why not resell the rust bucket ya just bought an get a nice rust free car to start off your build. There are a few cars in here that would fit the bill for ya. Will save you TONS of aggravation

Beat me to it! Might even be better off buying a car already done. The market is flooded right now. GNBRETT's car would have been perfect for you.

 

[bison]

delete

 

[Blazer406]

delete

You deleted it before I could get on you........

 

[Phartsmellar]

well seeing your goin to spend some $$$$ why not resell the rust bucket ya just bought an get a nice rust free car to start off your build. There are a few cars in here that would fit the bill for ya. Will save you TONS of aggravation

You Would not Likely believe This , But My Conscience would not let me sell This thing for within 5k of what I paid, So I am gonna take a hit at the paint shop or an equivalent loss on a sale, going the paint shop route at least I will know what I have,

And It Doesnt appear anyone makes replacement qtr Panels for these? THe Doors are Rusty as Heck, I could get on a 24 Rant about the previous owners description. It Runs Thats about all I can say.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

You Would not Likely believe This , But My Conscience would not let me sell This thing for within 5k of what I paid, So I am gonna take a hit at the paint shop or an equivalent loss on a sale, going the paint shop route at least I will know what I have,

And It Doesnt appear anyone makes replacement qtr Panels for these? THe Doors are Rusty as Heck, I could get on a 24 Rant about the previous owners description. It Runs Thats about all I can say.

You might change your mind when you find out how much it is going to cost you to get the bodywork and paint done!

 

[Grumpy]

You might change your mind when you find out how much it is going to cost you to get the bodywork and paint done!

X2 !! why couldn't you sell the car an tell people the problems it has.. Or piece it out an take a little bath now. Rust repair is NOT cheap !! Then painting the whole car your goin to spend some serious $$$.. BUT it's your car and your decision.. Good Luck !!

 

[Phartsmellar]

I KInda thought about doing fiberglass doors and trunklid and bumpers maybe even a hood if someone offered first rate stuff with ability to do roll up windows. I figure Ill have 8-10k in paint and body work one way or another. In South Texas, this type of Labor is probably a little more reasonable, with Hi per capita of Non Gringo's. I should have just Payed for 17K$ Car and not needed all this. It is ,what it is.

 

[Phartsmellar]

X2 !! why couldn't you sell the car an tell people the problems it has.. Or piece it out an take a little bath now. Rust repair is NOT cheap !! Then painting the whole car your goin to spend some serious $$$.. BUT it's your car and your decision.. Good Luck !!

I paid 9600.00 for this turd. I would guess its actuall value is about 4500.00, Next week there wont be anything buick offered from the factory under it, As it was presented on Ebay it had no rust supposedly,just needed a paint job.I was just gonna buy it, paint it,and have something to accessorize my shop to match my 1970 Buick GS Convertible (triple Black as well).Something to run to the parts house in.

On a another note all my Willwood brakes came in today as well as all My BMR and UMI Tubular Control arms...Yee Haw,,off to the Races..Or The Nearest Sonic Drive in.

 

[Phartsmellar]

Sorry I missed the 9 sec statement in the initial post.

So.... 9.70's on C16 race fuel.......

IMHO..... build it for high 8's or 9.0's and mid to high 9's should come much easier without it having to be a perfect pass.... on perfect air.... on a perfect launch... etc.... you get the picture...

The closest "class" that races at the buick events that has the potential...is probably THS class.....but 9.70's is the creme of the crop fastest in class guys.....

The next step up in "setups" is the TSM setups....... they mostly are mid 9 sec and faster setups still stock block based.... the fastest current TSM racers are running 9.0's in competition.....

If the $$ is there..... and you are thinking a 9.0 TSM type setup..... I'd look into a stage motor buildup.....cause a 9.0 capable TSM type combo isn't much $$ difference...... for the most part....

My recommendation would be to pick a vendor..... but if you want a general recommendation....

Plan on:

016 casting 4.1 stage block with 4 bolt mains and 14 bolt heads
stroker steel crank
good rods and pistons
Champion ported GN1's or TA Performance Ported SE heads
headers
around a 224 @ .050 roller cam (decent manners for the street)
New 71HPQ billet PTE turbo (4 bolt preferred)
Matching PTC converter (see Dusty Bradford on here)
Well built T400 with a transbrake
good boost controller and an external wastegate preferred
XFI and prob 120# injectors

This setup would go high 8's on some good air on less than 30# of boost.

Cut it back to 24 lbs.... and it should go mid 9's.

Down the road.... stick another turbo on it.... and cut it up..... and low to mid 8's wouldn't be impossible.


There you go.... it's "a start"

I dont know who you are or what you know, but I like the way you think.Are we gonna be able to get the factory ac sandwiched in this package? Somewhere? I think I will work around your formula here and spread the money around some, no vendors pm-ed and said Ill Work with ya...Kinda weird I was figuring on at least spending 30k on the engine trans program,economy must not be too bad..

 

[Blazer406]

I dont know who you are or what you know, but I like the way you think.Are we gonna be able to get the factory ac sandwiched in this package? Somewhere? I think I will work around your formula here and spread the money around some, no vendors pm-ed and said Ill Work with ya...Kinda weird I was figuring on at least spending 30k on the engine trans program,economy must not be too bad..

Good thing you are planning on 30K...... cause I can probably spend it for you.... LOL

In the forsale section..... Lazaris has a complete ready to go Stage setup.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/parts-sale/333704-4-1-stage-2-engine.html

It has gone 8.42 @ 162 on 30 lbs boost. It is an off center block.... so the accessory brackets on the car (and headers) would potentially bolt up. Factory A/C should bolt right up.....It appears to be the best of the best stuff in that motor (example......Buick Motorsports Stroker Crank) That engine definately has the stones to be backed off and still go mid to high 9's with ease.....and last a long time if you don't do something stupid.....

It would cost well over 20k to duplicate what he has in that motor. He said it only has 15 passes on it since new.....

Contact Cal Hartline (Hartline Performance) for a new XFI system and a startup program. Looks like you will need fuel injectors too..... go with at least 120# injectors for that setup.....and a turbo (for your immediate goals I would do the 71HPQ.... allthough it is a little small for that much motor..... but look at it this way..... you have growing room later)

Trans..... when talking stage II power levels.... it is hard to go wrong with a turbo 400. They are heavy duty..... and any local trans guy that is pretty good can build one that should hold up. Since the car will be street driven some....check with CK Performance who is a vendor on here he should have one of the transmission brakes that still allows an automatic valvebody. IMHO.... that would be the ticket for a street car.... He can also sell you the whole tranny too.

As far as looking stock.... not so much so..... but fast.... it will definately be....

You need to find someone fairly close to tune it......I don't have anybody that immediately comes to mind in your area..... You may contact board member Jerryl..... he is a regular on here and is from Houston..... he might know someone that can do what you need..... If you want...Cal Hartline will travel..... plane tickets and a track rental is usually the norm.... not sure what he charges over that.... check with him..... he is considered a guru when it comes to XFI's.... especially on Buick turbo V6's.....

TA Performance for headers .... and maybe a downpipe.... I would recommend the DP and headers be set up to run an external wastegate.....run a turbosmart, tial, or PTE (all 44mm or so) wastegate..... with a CO2 control and an AMS 1000 boost controller.


I'm sure there is lots of odds and ends I am not thinking about.....

The $$ add up quickly.....

 

[Grumpy]

Are we gonna be able to get the factory ac sandwiched in this package?

It should be no problem running the stock AC.

 

[Phartsmellar]

I am a kinda curious about the Transmission deal.

I was able to get a change order on the 9" ford to a 3.55 Gear, That being said, Is it that a Turbo Car Likes being lugged down so to speak? the reasoning for Numerically lower gear, and if it is, is a heavy duty powerglide with a standard 1.76 gear set a viable choice in transmissions,or is the 1-2 only shift to dramatic and have a tendancy to be to hard to tune and keep it from detonating itself to pieces for max effort applications?

 

[Blazer406]

I was able to get a change order on the 9" ford to a 3.55 Gear, That being said, Is it that a Turbo Car Likes being lugged down so to speak? the reasoning for Numerically lower gear, and if it is, is a heavy duty powerglide with a standard 1.76 gear set a viable choice in transmissions,or is the 1-2 only shift to dramatic and have a tendancy to be to hard to tune and keep it from detonating itself to pieces for max effort applications?

Most say these cars are too heavy to make good use of a powerglide. From what I can tell, the overwhelming majority of the 600 hp up cars are running a turbo 400.

These motors are relatively low RPM motors compared to LS1's and the like.... they make gobs of torque and you really don't need to spin them that high unless you are trying to extract every ounce of power. I would guess most have stuck with the 3.42 that came in them. It seems to be the most popular ratio.

 

[Grumpy]

Is it that a Turbo Car Likes being lugged down so to speak?

ours are "grunters" get em in 3rd gear an they grunt there way down the track. We are still running the POS 200R4 with about 20k on it.

 

[Heg87t]

I figure Ill have 8-10k in paint and body work one way or another. In South Texas, this type of Labor is probably a little more reasonable, with Hi per capita of Non Gringo's. I should have just Payed for 17K$ Car and not needed all this. It is ,what it is.

Even if you are not too concerned about the cost you will get a much better result and be done quicker starting with a rust-free car. Buy a local plain jane v6 regal and start with that. Transplant all the GN stuff from your car into it.:wink:

JMO after fixing my rusty car.

 

[Phartsmellar]

I tend to come from the, it has to be real school

Not into clones or posers, It will be ok,I appreciate your concern, in about 15 yrs these will be the equivalent what a hemi cuda is now or BB Camaro.Its worth saving. Its only about 2 yrs from not being able to be saved, If it was left in its present condition. I am going to remove the original engine, trans and rear put it on a pallet.Mechanically speaking it runs like a top. I like the stage 2, 4.1 Idea that was presented earlier in the thread.