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How fast can you comfortable go with stock crank, rods, and mains?

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I see... so rather than droppin another grand for forged rods, and good pistons, a wideband O2 w/ powerlogger, hood mounted fuel pressure gauge, and an egt guage would be better in the long run?

Thats what i would do. Keep the octane on the high side of safe. One dose of detonation over 550hp even a few degrees of KR and its game over. You wont have time to look at your fp too much when hammering on it going 120+. You need to creep up on it and look at your data after every blast. Do not detonate it and it will live a long time.
 
I'm not sure I'd be making that kinda HP. I'll be runnin a TA61 on stock heads/cam, on alky.

Id keep the boost under 25psi unless you plan on running good fuel. You should be able to get 450+hp fairly easy. It will take about 30psi to get 500+ though.
 
Ok, got it. And yea, there's no way I plan on pushing this TA61 to 30 psi. That would never, ever happen. Ever. And I have all sorts of access to good fuel, and xylene/toluene. I know how to mix too.
Just for reference, how much hp on a 3500 lbs car, would it take to net a mid 11 et?
 
Ok, got it. And yea, there's no way I plan on pushing this TA61 to 30 psi. That would never, ever happen. Ever. And I have all sorts of access to good fuel, and xylene/toluene. I know how to mix too.
Just for reference, how much hp on a 3500 lbs car, would it take to net a mid 11 et?

400hp
 
Is that 400 to the fly, or wheels. I thought it would take a little more than that to net a mid 11 timeslip. I see... Sounds good.
 
Is that 400 to the fly, or wheels. I thought it would take a little more than that to net a mid 11 timeslip. I see... Sounds good.

To go 116mph weighing 3600lbs its about 435hp at the flywheel which is about 375whp. Dont be influenced by the dyno queens you my read about that need 500whp to run mid 1's. Just not the case.
 
10.19 @ 133....i did not expect the motor to last but is still running to this day.....bone stock shortblock with a roller cam and a new timing chain.
 
+1

To go 116mph weighing 3600lbs its about 435hp at the flywheel which is about 375whp. Dont be influenced by the dyno queens you my read about that need 500whp to run mid 1's. Just not the case.

Most of the GTO guys scratch thier heads:confused: that I only put down 411rwhp and can run 11.40's at 3650lbs. with 2000+ D/A
 
Very well. Though, Dr. Boost... you're running 10.1, with stock heads, converter, and IC? Are you sure? What kind of turbo you run?
 
10.19 @ 133....i did not expect the motor to last but is still running to this day.....bone stock shortblock with a roller cam and a new timing chain.



Stock shortblock......... Not stock top end.
 
Wow, I'm just now revisiting this thread. I ran 12.0's at 114mph because I had a bad 60ft time. This was due to haing to roll into it to avoid detonation. I was putting down 384whp and 510lb/ft of torque. It's the torque that gets our cars down the track so fast. I've seen LS1 powered cars (F bodies, GTOs, and a 70 Chevelle) with 450whp run 12.0's. I think they only were putting down 420-430lb/ft of torque though.

Just to update, I have gone with Wiseco pistons (because I got a new set cheap and had to bore the block anyway), stock rods resized for ARP bolts, stock crank, stock caps. It's all internally balanced. The crank was almost perfect and the line bore was dead on, so no need to turn the crank or align bore the mains. If I had to do that I would have gone billet centers, but my budget is tight. I was able to have the crank polished and get the clearances I wanted with standard bearings. I am shooting for about 450whp, so with a safe tune I should have no worries. I will be investing in a wideband, powrlogger, TT chip for adjustability, and most likely a LS1 MAF and translator.
 
Wow, I'm just now revisiting this thread. I ran 12.0's at 114mph because I had a bad 60ft time. This was due to haing to roll into it to avoid detonation. I was putting down 384whp and 510lb/ft of torque. It's the torque that gets our cars down the track so fast. I've seen LS1 powered cars (F bodies, GTOs, and a 70 Chevelle) with 450whp run 12.0's. I think they only were putting down 420-430lb/ft of torque though.

Just to update, I have gone with Wiseco pistons (because I got a new set cheap and had to bore the block anyway), stock rods resized for ARP bolts, stock crank, stock caps. It's all internally balanced. The crank was almost perfect and the line bore was dead on, so no need to turn the crank or align bore the mains. If I had to do that I would have gone billet centers, but my budget is tight. I was able to have the crank polished and get the clearances I wanted with standard bearings. I am shooting for about 450whp, so with a safe tune I should have no worries. I will be investing in a wideband, powrlogger, TT chip for adjustability, and most likely a LS1 MAF and translator.

I'm going throught the same thing now. Just had my engine done w/ crap load of mods. I went mid 11's with my old set up. hoping to brake into 10's with full interior. :eek:
 
I just Dyno'd my car since the first run at the track and I got 505whp at I would believe 5800 rpm. Same set up/tune as track day.
 
I just Dyno'd my car since the first run at the track and I got 505whp at I would believe 5800 rpm. Same set up/tune as track day.

This thread is about stock crank, rods, and mains. Looks like you have a lot more than that. Crank it up and look for 700hp. Should happen around 29psi
 
I was just putting out my dyno number so they could gauge it.... And I doubt it would take that much boost to make 700:cool:
 
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