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How many CFM's is the stock electric fan?

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Copied off a Ford forum:
Taurus:

22 7/8 wide with the side tab brackets that it mounts with from the factory
20 3/8 wide side to side at the shroud
17 1/8 tall
4 3/4 thick, but that was kinda tough to measure...i'd say in the neighborhood of 4 1/2 to 5 thick


Mark VIII:
22 inches wide, i didn't even bother with the brackets on this one because i don't know how you could use them
19 inches tall
5 3/4 thick, again that's a rough estimate. This one definitely needs some trimming of the shroud "depth" from the radiator because it comes
so close to the water pulley.

The Mark8 comes in a one speed and a 2 speed version. Forget what years, something you can research.
 
It works with a F/M or in my case if you trim 2.5"s all the way around from the front face of the shroud.

This will leave you about a 1/16" between the I/C pipe on pass side and still allow the AC bracket to fit under the shroud so you can go back to stock if needed.

There is still room for more trimming if needed to clear the I/C pipes if you need more clearance in your application.

You then need to make two L brackets to hold the fan and AC lines if you still have AC.
 
Copied off a Ford forum:
Taurus:

22 7/8 wide with the side tab brackets that it mounts with from the factory
20 3/8 wide side to side at the shroud
17 1/8 tall
4 3/4 thick, but that was kinda tough to measure...i'd say in the neighborhood of 4 1/2 to 5 thick


Mark VIII:
22 inches wide, i didn't even bother with the brackets on this one because i don't know how you could use them
19 inches tall
5 3/4 thick, again that's a rough estimate. This one definitely needs some trimming of the shroud "depth" from the radiator because it comes
so close to the water pulley.

The Mark8 comes in a one speed and a 2 speed version. Forget what years, something you can research.




They come in the mid 90's cars and I believe the fans are all the same. the speeds are controlled by relays/controllers that supply the high and low voltage for the different speeds.

I just run mine on high and have the temp set in the chip to turn it on at 175* and off at 170* it runs less than 3 minutes when it comes on. With ac on it stays on as it is wired into the factory harness.
 
I know theirs a lot more and prob better choices these days for fans, but the ones I listed have all been on turbo buicks with great results...I use the 16" maradyne(champion series) puller fan rated on the lower side of cfm's at 2250 w/ the stock rad on one of my cars and never been over 172 degrees on hot days..
 
It works with a F/M or in my case if you trim 2.5"s all the way around from the front face of the shroud.

This will leave you about a 1/16" between the I/C pipe on pass side and still allow the AC bracket to fit under the shroud so you can go back to stock if needed.

There is still room for more trimming if needed to clear the I/C pipes if you need more clearance in your application.

You then need to make two L brackets to hold the fan and AC lines if you still have AC.

I also put a cowl seal on the fan to seal it tight against the rad for no leaks and to keep from rubbing the rad.
 
Here are some crappy pics that I took real quick just to give an idea of how it looks mounted on the car.





IMG_9758.JPG
IMG_9761.JPG
 
Do these thing really pull 50 amps at start up ???

Bryan
 
Thats a F'n MONSTER!!! I just called my local yard...$85 bucks and a few days to get. How much is the Caspers relay kit or can you just splice in to our factory wires? I'm assuming you only need relays if you want the multiple speeds.

You can splice into the factory wiring if you don't mind cutting the pigtails off an old factory fan or the one in the harness. I only used the caspers setup because it came with the Gbody dual fan setup and rad. I took it out in less than two weeks because the oil cooler let go. I figured why cut the factory wiring when I could just tie into the caspers setup.

Yes you only need multiple relays if you plan on using multiple speeds. The advantage to the caspers setup is that it comes on in stages for a dual fan setup so it spreads the amp load on start up and I have had no issues at all.

I have to have the fans come on at 175* and shut off at 170* because if I put it in fan race mode on the chip it won't come out of open loop [it shuts off at 160*] and that's with the 10 year old POS factory rad that needs to be replaced very soon as you can see by the condition of it in the pics.


the caspers set up is
109069 Dual Fan Relay Harness 86-87 GN/Regal turbo $66.95
 
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I wish the spal dual setup wasnt so expensive. Its so convenient to just install it and be plug and play but damn.
 
Coach we're currently working on another option as well. Not quite sure how it will pan out but we'll see.




The standard slim Spal dual fan kit is only $369 http://www.alradco.com/spal-dual-fan-kits/

How many cfm are they rated at???

I like your products and might even get one of your rads, but it's hard for people like me that are on a budget to justify almost 400 bucks for fans when you can buy a single SN95 fan new for a little over 100 bucks and the relays for 70 bucks bringing the total in under 200 bucks.

You would sell a ton of units if you could get SN95 fans or something similar in performance in kit form and plug and play for under 250/300 bucks for the people who can't/don't want to fab up this type of setup but would like the performance it offers.

I'm a firm believer now after installing my SN95 fan that the rad isn't as important to keeping the temps down as it is in how much air you can get moved through the rad.

Mine is a stock rad that is over ten years old and on it's last legs and my car runs cooler now than with the Gbody rad/dual fan setup that was in it for a brief period.
 
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^^^i am in the same boat. A mark 8 fan or a ramcharger fan and the caspers set up will be about $180 shipped compared to the standard slim at 369 plus shipping. I am sure its a great product, it took time to fabricate and the overhead and all the reasons why its $369. But for us guys who cannot really afford the ease of just buying it plug and play have to shop around for other options that are cheaper and have to fabricate these things ourselves. If the spal fam was $200 for example, that would be in my budget. Again, not trying to upset anyone or make this a debate over why things cost what they do, just seeing it from my view as a hard working man with a passion for our beloved cars, on a budget. lol.
 
Intrepid fans and an F body rad. 172 is the highest I have ever seen with a 4.5" thick FMIC.

That is probably without running the AC and definitely without the hot engine oil in conjunction with the trans fluid running through one of your side tanks.

My F/M is the same size as my condenser and as thick as yours so I need to pull as much CFM as I can get to pull through all three units. I can only imagine what the temps are coming off the AC condenser when it 100* or hotter outside with my AC on and then that has to pass through the rad and keep the coolant temps in check.

I live in an area that has 100* heat and high humidity from June till September and drive my car daily. Ohio temps are nothing like what people in the south or out west in Arizona experience.

What I'm trying to say is that every members car is different and they live in different climates and have different needs.

I like having just one fan that is over kill and cheaper than any quality dual fan setup I've ever come across.
 
You can splice into the factory wiring if you don't mind cutting the pigtails off an old factory fan or the one in the harness. I only used the caspers setup because it came with the Gbody dual fan setup and rad. I took it out in less than two weeks because the oil cooler let go. I figured why cut the factory wiring when I could just tie into the caspers setup.

Yes you only need multiple relays if you plan on using multiple speeds. The advantage to the caspers setup is that it comes on in stages for a dual fan setup so it spreads the amp load on start up and I have had no issues at all.

I have to have the fans come on at 175* and shut off at 170* because if I put it in fan race mode on the chip it won't come out of open loop [it shuts off at 160*] and that's with the 10 year old POS factory rad that needs to be replaced very soon as you can see by the condition of it in the pics.


the caspers set up is
109069 Dual Fan Relay Harness 86-87 GN/Regal turbo $66.95
Does using the relay kit stop the 100 amp draw at start up? That's ugly and I really do not want that. I found the wiring diagram on another sight and may seek the help of a friend in wiring up a 2 speed set-up.
 
Does using the relay kit stop the 100 amp draw at start up? That's ugly and I really do not want that. I found the wiring diagram on another sight and may seek the help of a friend in wiring up a 2 speed set-up.

I don't know where you read that, but I believe the start up amp draw in a direct wired 12 volt situation is around 60/70 amps and around 30 amps continuous when running on high from what I've read on the other boards. Hell I don't have any wiring in the car that would handle that kind of load [100 amps] except the battery cables.

If the draw was that high my head lights and dash would dim on fan start up and or I'd have burnt wiring by now and I have no such problems.

The dual relay has a split/staggered time delay that spreads the start up load between the two relays instead of having one big hit at once on one relay.

I was told it turns on one fan and a split second later the other fan in a dual fan setup so as to keep the amp load in check and easier on the electrical system and factory wiring which wasn't designed to handle the demands of todays routine amp loads.

I have no reason to not believe it as I have never had any issues with the caspers unit on this or the dual fan setup. I'm not sure what the dual fans amp load was rated at, but it works perfect with the sn95 fan and a 10" fan that I have on my trans cooler tied into the same circuit to come on with the main fan as well.
 
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How many cfm are they rated at???

I like your products and might even get one of your rads, but it's hard for people like me that are on a budget to justify almost 400 bucks for fans when you can buy a single SN95 fan new for a little over 100 bucks and the relays for 70 bucks bringing the total in under 200 bucks.

You would sell a ton of units if you could get SN95 fans or something similar in performance in kit form and plug and play for under 250/300 bucks for the people you can't/don't want to fab up this type of setup but would like the performance it offers.

I'm a firm believer now after installing my SN95 fan that the rad isn't as important to keeping the temps down as it is in how much air you can get moved through the rad.

Mine is a stock rad that is over ten years old and on it's last legs and my car runs cooler now than with the Gbody rad/dual fan setup that was in it for a brief period.

Thanks for the compliments. The slim kit is around 1800cfm which is more than the stock fan. Also our shroud covers the entire core of the radiator unlike the stock fan which we're all familiar with. I understand budgets first hand, that's why my GN hasn't ran for a few years since I blew the motor. Another reason why we offer two fan kits instead of just the big one. I wanted to make sure we had a more budget friendly kit that would meet the needs of many. The fans are the biggest expense in the kits.

Our slim Spal kit comes with an aluminum shroud made specifically for our cars, a custom Caspers wiring harness and 2 Spal fans. Installation is simple and it plugs into the factory harness, $369, that's a great price in my opinion for what you get. I think there's people already offering plastic shroud, inexpensive fans for around that $250-$300 price tag. When our fans are on sale, that's not even a $100 difference and you get Spal fans and a custom aluminum shroud, and someone that stands behind their product. We also offer a hybrid kit that is not on the site with one Extreme fan and one slim for those with clearance difficulties.

Also as I mentioned we are working on even another option so hopefully it works well, has me pretty excited. :)
 
Also as I mentioned we are working on even another option so hopefully it works well, has me pretty excited. :)

Can you share it with us or do we have to wait??

I now know that the fan/s are the most important part of keeping our cars cool especially if you have a huge F/M like I do.

The sn95 works awesome and if it can cool my car with the crappy rad that's in it now it only proves the point that the right fan setup is just as important as the rad choice.

I will be buying my rad from you very soon for the very same reason I now run the sn95 fan. It's a quality rad at a good price. I checked into having mine re cored and it's about the same price as the rad you offer NEW and has both oil and trans cooler built in and that is important to me.

Whatever you have in the pipeline as far as fans go make sure it offers the F/M guys with AC in hot climates something to brag about and you will corner the market on them especially if you offer them as plug N play.
 
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