How much boost are you all runnin' on 93 octane?

[d0n_3d]

well the turbo is brand new...with my stock turbo i used to get TONS of oil in the intercooler and pipes...now it's very mild with just SOME oil in the hoses...i get no more oil in the intercooler actually...i think i will just keep the pcv setup...i mean my car runs great and why change things if they are working fine...besides i will be running alcohol soon so that should be cleaning things up

 

[BlackBeauty]

Since we are talking about the PCV valve now, I have a question. For the vacuum brake conversion, it is suggested to T into the PCV valve hose. Is this going to be a problem by sending oil to my brake booster? The connection at the booster has a check valve.

 

[turbojimmy]

Since we've digressed to PCVs and whatnot, is it okay to have some pressure in the crankcase? Like enough to blow a fair amount of oil out of both breathers?

The motor is new (2k miles) and it's not compression blow-by - it's from boost.

Would a PCV checkvalve help that?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[azgn]

what kind of gaskets are you using for your breathers? (some, like Mr Gasket, have a flap inside that seal under boost....)

if you are blowing a lot of boost past the pcv, a check valve should help.......try it without the pcv and see if you still get a lot of pressure in the crankcase

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by azgn
what kind of gaskets are you using for your breathers? (some, like Mr Gasket, have a flap inside that seal under boost....)

if you are blowing a lot of boost past the pcv, a check valve should help.......try it without the pcv and see if you still get a lot of pressure in the crankcase

The RH breather is just a K&N - just a grommet, no flap. LH side is stock. It's blowing past the stock rubber grommet, not the cap.

I'll try it w/out the PCV first.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[J Banning]

Originally posted by REDS HOT AIR
another important factor is valve seals on the intake side..you must mave a good seal on them and ones that fit tight on the guide or you risk the chance of boost pressure going up the valve stem and pushing the seal off the guide boss.. I actually glue my seals to the guide bosses when I install them... low boost guys need not worry..

Hmmm... maybe that explains why ALL of my intake valve seals were blown off! The exhaust seals were still tight, just not the intakes. I said f##k it and pulled the intake seals off completely, put it all back together, and ran the best times on pump gas to date!

What do you use for glue?

-Banning.

 

[99Formula]

Originally posted by azgn
what kind of gaskets are you using for your breathers? (some, like Mr Gasket, have a flap inside that seal under boost....)

Do you know the part #'s for those gaskets, or where they can be found? I searched the Mr Gasket catalog and wasn't able to find them. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Peter

 

[azgn]

can't help you with a part number, but trust me, you do not want to use 'em unless you modify them to leak! (otherwise, your crankcase will pressurize and you'll blow oil out every orifice and you won't find your dipstick for a week....)

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by J Banning
Hmmm... maybe that explains why ALL of my intake valve seals were blown off! The exhaust seals were still tight, just not the intakes. I said f##k it and pulled the intake seals off completely, put it all back together, and ran the best times on pump gas to date!

What do you use for glue?

-Banning.

I'll add..ya dont need seals on the exhuast side valves..just intake ones..

Great idea on the glue deal..I'd like to know too..I would assume some glue inpervious to oil..probably the yellow monkey snot(weather strip adhesive 3M )..but thats just a guess

 

[d0n_3d]

i used to use an inline check valve along with the pcv valve and i kept getting a code 44 when the car idled for 60 seconds...i took off the inline check valve and no more code 44...so i am reluctant to go back to that thing...

 

[REDS HOT AIR]

valve seals ....

agreed you dont need any on the exaust side

glue you ask...

same thing I use on every vacuum line on my car....crazy glue or super glue

I wipe the guide bosses down with a rag wet with carb cleaner and wipe out the inside of the seal then put a lil glue on the guide boss and push seal down on it. dont use too much

I keep a bottle in my console any hose i take loose gets glued back on ...it will come back off with a lil twist

when I pulled my heads apart a couple weeks ago they had been glued on for atleast a year and they were still stuck to the guides...felt them pop loose when I pryed them off

 

[boostcreep]

bruce wrote:

Crank sensor ring, cam sensor, cam timing, all are at 0.

Bruce, I set my cam sensor to 0 and my car idles so much better now, it starts better, and the exhaust note even sounds a bit healthier! I've even cut my knock numbers in half! What I would like to know is how to set the crank sensor ring to 0??? A little help please.

Nick

 

[turbojimmy]

Originally posted by boostcreep
Bruce, I set my cam sensor to 0 and my car idles so much better now, it starts better, and the exhaust note even sounds a bit healthier! I've even cut my knock numbers in half! What I would like to know is how to set the crank sensor ring to 0??? A little help please.

Nick

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the cam sensor set to normally?

Jim

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by strikeeagle
Having owned 4 TRs over time, I can't see how anybody can run 20 PSI or anywhere near it on 91 to 94 octane in the summer, so let's just say I'm from Missouri...

Some time when you get out of Missouri stop by OH and I'll show ya.

How much time have you spent burning chips for those 4 cars?. Off that time chip burning, how much really experimenting?.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by turbo buicks
if you get a translator and LS1/LT1 MAF can it be mounted as a blow-through setup just as easily as a stock setup? or do you need the chip reprogrammed for a blow-through type setup?

There is no universally correct answer for that.
To some degree depends on your car.
If your close as a draw thru you should be OK as blow thru. But, you might need to tweak the fuel at WOT.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by Ormand
In the wrong place for what? A Speed denisty system, sure, but to use the IAT for a MAF sensor trim like the stock system does? In that case it seems to makes sense to have it near the MAF sensor then, no?

The stock MAF and MAT combination works well where it is. If the MAF is moved to a location downstream of the turbo, the pressure variations will result in density variations WAY beyond the design range of the instrument. Moving the MAT with it would seem logical, but would still not work, because of the limited range. The density variation with temperature is MUCH less than that which would result from pressure changes of 20 psi. I have no idea what the design range of the Chevy MAF is, but I would be surprised if it is designed for a density variation of 2 or 3 to one.
Moving the MAF, in theory, will help throttle response, but since there is only one MAF, and six cylinders, it is still an "average" flow. If you're going to reduce duty cycle, by the way, why not go below 50%? Then the injector will only function during the intake stroke?
The "buzzing" from static injectors is simple. Think about it. Just before static, the "dwell time" is not enough for the injectors to fully open/close. Instead, they will cycle from almost open to open, back to almost open, they never really close. Sounds funny, don't know if it hurts the injector though.
PCV was introduced to cut down on smog. Old cars with blowby have a cloud that follows them, unburned hydrocarbons blown through and out fthe crankcase. The PCV routes this junk back into the engine, where it might burn. (or maybe not) First attempt was just to route crankcase vent back to the air cleaner- boy what a mess! The PCV valve routed it directly to the intake manifold, where it wasn't as obvious of a mess.

The stock MAF, and MAT, will they work, only do so as much as was needed for the oem configuration.

50%, sorry but no, it's a 4 stroke engine and the intake is open 25% of the time. and the injectors only fire at a closed valve, so your injector timing Ideas have some flaws in em.

Your injector senario isn't what I've witnessed. You can bench run injectors and hear the differences from when they hang to when they shut and open. From what I've seen it's the TBI injectors that do the hang routine.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by d0n_3d
i used to use an inline check valve along with the pcv valve and i kept getting a code 44 when the car idled for 60 seconds...i took off the inline check valve and no more code 44...so i am reluctant to go back to that thing...

44 is lean, almost sounds like you some how had a vac leak.

I can't imagine not running one. It's cheap security IMO.

 

[bruce]

Originally posted by boostcreep
Bruce, I set my cam sensor to 0 and my car idles so much better now, it starts better, and the exhaust note even sounds a bit healthier! I've even cut my knock numbers in half! What I would like to know is how to set the crank sensor ring to 0??? A little help please.

Nick

Ugh, sorry, I was meaning 0 from stock. ie I'd have to look but I think it's 20D.

I've seen some cars the really like altered cam sensor timing, but it's time consuming to dink with. So I just leave mine along, and if I want to play with things, I change the refernce angle in the chip..

 

[Ormand]

50% Duty Cycle- Should be 25

Intake valves open a little more than 25% of the time, unless your cam has only 180 degrees. But still, if you want to reduce the duty cycle, why stop at 90? Even at 90, you are spraying at a closed valve for the majority of the cycle. "The injectors only fire at a closed valve"? Where did you get that idea? They fire at a closed valve for a lot of full power operation, but during idle and cruise, when the duty cycle is low, they should be firing at an open valve. I personally don't think it would make much difference, but it seems to me if you're going to reduce duty cycle, you might as well recuce it a lot! Of course, with high boost engines, that would get you into HUGE injectors.

 

[TT/Ameasap]

Ya know it's funny..... I asked if I could run 20psi on 93 octane about a year ago and everyone laughed at me...... I found this thread and seems to me there are quite a few people doing it.

I know for a fact I can run 18psi boost in 3rd gear at 0.0 kr with combo listed. Never pushed it harder AFTER power plate install. I also have a check valve where the pcv valve was. When I did the PP install, I noticed a coating of oil in the lower plenum assuming that it was normal.

This is very good stuff! lets keep it going!