How much stall is too much?

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Steve

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2001
Messages
1,232
I am sending my Vigilante converter in to have it restalled but I am sure how much stall I want. Will I lose any top end with a 3600? The 3400 is a proven set up and works well so I am leaning that way, but I wouldn't mind trying the 3600 just to have some room to grow as long as it doesn't hurt my top end. I know I have read feedback that the 3800-4000 converters hurt the top end even when locked. My 3200 Vigilante went 129 mph with a TE-45a and I want to lose as little as possible but get more stall for the LT-70 I want to upgrade to! Thanks


Steve
 
I think if their locked, their locked. Please correct me if I am wrong. I have a 3600 9x11 from CK. It's great. I lock it on the big end. Good for 5 mph.

I don't think stall plays a part in it if it's locked.
 
I definately think that locking it makes a big difference but some of the guys with the 3800/4000 lock up converters lost mph even when locked over tighter converters. I had a 4000 Vigilante with a pt-72 in a car I had a few years ago and it had little RPM drop between 1st and 2nd and didn't load the motor well and had the same mph as the car did with when it had a 3200/TE-45a.
 
I dont understand how you guys rate your stalls. My convertor stalls to 2700 at 0psi but goes to whatever I set the 2 step at. I can leave at 3500, 3800, or 4000rpm at 18psi which is what it was at in the video. So what do I have, a 2700? 3500? 3800? 4000? I think we should all reference the 0 psi "flash" stall (which is 2700 on my car).
 
does any of you have a rattle in there vigilante converter...9 1/2 that shows knocks on the scanmaster?
 
I just got Jim Romanello's old converter. He said it is too loose for my needs(70 GTQ in a 233ci). It was too loose in his (71GTQ same ci, i think). He says 4000 at 0 psi. Also he said it only dropped about 400 rpm on shifts. But in reality it wasnt "too loose" on the top end because he went 135mph with it and i think he said he was only a little over 6000 rpm with a 29" slick. I dont have a calculator right now but i think its only slipping 8-10%. Its a little soft down low but the engine catches up to it by the end. He said i should have it restalled to take out about 500 rpm at 0 psi. Having it a little tighter down low may improve 60 fts. The rpm at 0 psi doesnt always correlate to the % of slippage. A good converter will always slip less than 10% on the top. Ideally you want the converter to stay in the meat of the power band to get quicker et's. Locking converters in certain applications can hurt et's even though the mph is higher. The torque multiplication is gone when its locked. Another thing i have noticed is that when dynoing cars with automatics and unlocked converters they put down considerably less hp than when they are locked. This rear wheel hp doesnt always mean better performance.
 
SPOT MY 6 said:
I dont understand how you guys rate your stalls. My convertor stalls to 2700 at 0psi but goes to whatever I set the 2 step at. I can leave at 3500, 3800, or 4000rpm at 18psi which is what it was at in the video. So what do I have, a 2700? 3500? 3800? 4000? I think we should all reference the 0 psi "flash" stall (which is 2700 on my car).
Knowing the engine type, ci, everything you mentioned about rpm at each boost level, as well as the efficiency (% of slip through the traps) is a better indicator of what you have and if its right for your application.
 
y-hate said:
does any of you have a rattle in there vigilante converter...9 1/2 that shows knocks on the scanmaster?


I've got a 9½" multi disc Vigilante, and is a little noisy at idle but never picked up any knock because of it though.
 
bison said:
I just got Jim Romanello's old converter. He said it is too loose for my needs(70 GTQ in a 233ci). It was too loose in his (71GTQ same ci, i think). He says 4000 at 0 psi. Also he said it only dropped about 400 rpm on shifts. But in reality it wasnt "too loose" on the top end because he went 135mph with it and i think he said he was only a little over 6000 rpm with a 29" slick. I dont have a calculator right now but i think its only slipping 8-10%. Its a little soft down low but the engine catches up to it by the end. He said i should have it restalled to take out about 500 rpm at 0 psi. Having it a little tighter down low may improve 60 fts. The rpm at 0 psi doesnt always correlate to the % of slippage. A good converter will always slip less than 10% on the top. Ideally you want the converter to stay in the meat of the power band to get quicker et's. Locking converters in certain applications can hurt et's even though the mph is higher. The torque multiplication is gone when its locked. Another thing i have noticed is that when dynoing cars with automatics and unlocked converters they put down considerably less hp than when they are locked. This rear wheel hp doesnt always mean better performance.

Actually, torque multiplication goes away very soon after leaving from the line. The stator begins overrunning and coupling begins for the vast majority of the run. You may see a very slight amount of torque multiplication (1.2, 1.3 to one), for a very short amount of time, right at each shift in some high HP applications.
 
DonWG said:
Actually, torque multiplication goes away very soon after leaving from the line. The stator begins overrunning and coupling begins for the vast majority of the run. You may see a very slight amount of torque multiplication (1.2, 1.3 to one), for a very short amount of time, right at each shift in some high HP applications.
Yes, the multiplication is little once the converter flashes but having it locked anywhere but at the top of 3rd is usually no good except for a few exceptions. I also had a typo in my previous post. The sentence about locking on the dyno was the opposite of what it should be (should be unlocked). Ill correct it but where you quoted me will have the wrong info.
 
What converter & turbo you running there..looks badazz leaing the line..wish mine done that...nice vid..wish it showed times though

SPOT MY 6 said:
I dont understand how you guys rate your stalls. My convertor stalls to 2700 at 0psi but goes to whatever I set the 2 step at. I can leave at 3500, 3800, or 4000rpm at 18psi which is what it was at in the video. So what do I have, a 2700? 3500? 3800? 4000? I think we should all reference the 0 psi "flash" stall (which is 2700 on my car).
 
bison said:
Yes, the multiplication is little once the converter flashes but having it locked anywhere but at the top of 3rd is usually no good except for a few exceptions. I also had a typo in my previous post. The sentence about locking on the dyno was the opposite of what it should be (should be unlocked). Ill correct it but where you quoted me will have the wrong info.

So you're saying an unlocked converter will make more power than if it were locked on the dyno?
 
DonnieShort said:
So you're saying an unlocked converter will make more power than if it were locked on the dyno?
No. That was a typo. Should be the other way around. I couldnt edit it. I corrected myself further down though.
 
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